Just INSTALLED: L2 48A EVSE from Amazon - getting prepped for incoming Lightning

[wheelz2000]

Anyone getting their EVSE installed in anticipation of their Lightning ?

Delivery tomorrow for a 48A L2 EVSE for my garage - so excited getting antsy for the SR Lightning incoming next month.

Hoping for early delivery as many FB posts showing people getting their Lighting 2-3 weeks earlier than Ford's estimate....

Got my electrician coming in next weekend to help me install the EVSE in my tiny garage.
Charging the Lightning will be just outside the garage.
My wife's PHEV charger is on a separate wall and she parks inside.

My electrician said, since my breaker panel is directly behind the garage wall that I want it installed, there is no need for a sub panel - saving me lots of money!
Just add a breaker, 2 gang outlet hardwire and voila!

Here's my UL listed EVSE for $450 - half the price of Ford's charger....

Metroshot,
I had techs install a 40 amp RV hookup in my garage a couple years ago right before I got my Model 3. What that is, is the nema 14-50 outlet box on the wall. It contains a 40 amp hookup for. Mobil charger and a couple 110 outlets for plugging in other garage items when the car wasn't charging for a little more versatility.
Am gonna ask the tech to come back to see about upgrading to either a 50 amp or 100 amp subpage that can do the home backup system. That would be awesome.

 

[gorwell]

I have that charger.

Best bang for your buck.

I installed it with 60amp breaker. Ran 6 guage thhn to it.

Only key complaint is that the charge cord is thick.

The app is clunky, but fine as it's not something you use a lot.

Aside from the great price, I got it because of on the fly amp changes in the app.

I mostly just change at 32amp, but I like knowing I have the extra power if I forgot to start it.

Also can limit it to match my solar.

 

[Tony Burgh]

I’m running 6-3 from 60@ breaker through wall to 14-50 receptacle in weatherproof enclosure outside. Will use mobile charger initially. Will go to 100@ breaker, 2 gauge wire to pro charger if it ever shows up. Not very expensive when only need 6 feet of wire.

 

[Firestop]

I’m running 6-3 from 60@ breaker through wall to 14-50 receptacle in weatherproof enclosure outside. Will use mobile charger initially. Will go to 100@ breaker, 2 gauge wire to pro charger if it ever shows up. Not very expensive when only need 6 feet of wire.

Lucky you…I have a 26’ linear run of #3 Copper in conduit and the supplies are going to run me about $1,200…ouch!

 

[Tomwilli2025]

Lucky you…I have a 26’ linear run of #3 Copper in conduit and the supplies are going to run me about $1,200…ouch!

Do you mind sharing your parts list? Where are you sourcing your wire?
I have a 120 foot linear run. I'm overthinking my options and looking solutions. I have a 200 amp service and electrical tells me I can add add another 80 amp breaker to my main. Trying to decide on which sub panel, type conduit and will probably go ahead and install a 14-50 off the new sub panel as well a junction box for the FCSP. Buy once, cry once.
Thanks.

 

[Firestop]

Do you mind sharing your parts list? Where are you sourcing your wire?
I have a 120 foot linear run. I'm overthinking my options and looking solutions. I have a 200 amp service and electrical tells me I can add add another 80 amp breaker to my main. Trying to decide on which sub panel, type conduit and will probably go ahead and install a 14-50 off the new sub panel as well a junction box for the FCSP. Buy once, cry once.
Thanks.

Ouch 120’ of Copper! I understand your pain and do feel lucky.

I wish I was that handy to have a detailed parts list to provide you…I pulled that cost info from the proposal sheet from my E contractor’s bid…he didn’t detail it out that deep. He wired my house when I built 14 yrs ago and provided the lowest bid, so I felt comfortable with the summary of cost & labor (3/4 day @. $750/day). The total was $1675.

When I originally built, I asked my E-contractor to wire in a 60A Critical Load sub-panel with a manual transfer switch and an external NEMA 14-50 connection for a portable generator. That left me plenty of room in my main 240V/200A service panel, so he has plenty of room to add the new 100A breaker for the new EVSE circuit to supply the 80A FCSP.

Everyone I talked to during my bid process told me their costs on conduit and Copper wire is currently insane….and, changing sometimes daily (up). They all suggested an option to use an Aluminum conductor to defray costs, but I didn’t ask for pricing as there is very little detailed info available on installation of the FCSP. I was also given a suggestion to use Al for the bulk of the run, terminated in Copper, but I chose to stay all Cu……

Sorry I couldn’t provide more cost details…….

 

[lancersrock]

Funny you noticed that - $10 less for a non UL EVSE was a no brainer...

As a UL employee I greatly appreciate the fact that consumers care enough to know the difference, most people would just take the non listed one as they don't understand the difference.

 

[Tomwilli2025]

Ouch 120’ of Copper! I understand your pain and do feel lucky.

I wish I was that handy to have a detailed parts list to provide you…I pulled that cost info from the proposal sheet from my E contractor’s bid…he didn’t detail it out that deep. He wired my house when I built 14 yrs ago and provided the lowest bid, so I felt comfortable with the summary of cost & labor (3/4 day @. $750/day). The total was $1675.

When I originally built, I asked my E-contractor to wire in a 60A Critical Load sub-panel with a manual transfer switch and an external NEMA 14-50 connection for a portable generator. That left me plenty of room in my main 240V/200A service panel, so he has plenty of room to add the new 100A breaker for the new EVSE circuit to supply the 80A FCSP.

Everyone I talked to during my bid process told me their costs on conduit and Copper wire is currently insane….and, changing sometimes daily (up). They all suggested an option to use an Aluminum conductor to defray costs, but I didn’t ask for pricing as there is very little detailed info available on installation of the FCSP. I was also given a suggestion to use Al for the bulk of the run, terminated in Copper, but I chose to stay all Cu……

Sorry I couldn’t provide more cost details…….

Thanks for the reply.

 

[PV2EV]

Lucky you…I have a 26’ linear run of #3 Copper in conduit and the supplies are going to run me about $1,200…ouch!

Why not #4 THHN? #3 is typically Romex witch is crazy$

 

[PV2EV]

Here are my conduit parts for one EVSE:

Secondary Charger
Panel
3/4" Screw Cap
3/4" Nut x 2
3/4" set screw connector
3/4" EMT 40'?
3/4" EMT Joints & straps
3/4" set screw connector
3/4" Nut
1 in. x 3/4 in. Rigid Reducing Bushing
1" LB
1" IMC (13"? two threaded male ends)
1" Nut x 2
1" Screw cap
EVSE

 

[jefro]

I purchased my EVSE well before I bought my first EV. The one I selected has a jumper that set's maximum current so it can be used on a number of circuits.

You may find that such a high rate may be of no value. How many miles do you expect to replace each day on average?

 

[Firestop]

Why not #4 THHN? #3 is typically Romex witch is crazy$

I get the cost issue, but with the FCSP max capacity to accept 80A to max its charge output…so does the cost:

• #4 AWG has 85A ampacity but should conduct at most 68 amps.
• #3 AWG has 100A ampacity but should conduct at most 80 amps.

https://learnmetrics.com/100-amp-wire-size/

On my cost benefit analysis, the 80A vs 60A (assuming 60A is the closest dip setting on the FCSP) supply to the FSCP going into the future is worth the cost difference in my situation…..

 

[PV2EV]

I get the cost issue, but with the FCSP max capacity to accept 80A to max its charge output…so does the cost:

• #4 AWG has 85A ampacity but should conduct at most 68 amps.
• #3 AWG has 100A ampacity but should conduct at most 80 amps.

https://learnmetrics.com/100-amp-wire-size/

On my cost benefit analysis, the 80A vs 60A (assuming 60A is the closest dip setting on the FCSP) supply to the FSCP going into the future is worth the cost difference in my situation…..

Interesting website. I referenced the wire manufacturers site and got #4 @ 75C. Also I trust the electrician who wired for it at my WA home. He used #2 AL Service Entrance Cable, but would have used #4 CU if I wanted to pay for it.

If I have to go #3, I will need bigger conduit and will have to use ugly ass PVC.

Now I am triple guessing the choice

 

[Firestop]

Interesting website. I referenced the wire manufacturers site and got #4 @ 75C. Also I trust the electrician who wired for it at my WA home. He used #2 AL Service Entrance Cable, but would have used #4 CU if I wanted to pay for it.

If I have to go #3, I will need bigger conduit and will have to use ugly ass PVC.

Now I am triple guessing the choice

Yeah, I’m trusting the advice/choices of my electrician…he did me a solid when he roughed-in/finished my house when I built it and feel good about his work. On a side note, anticipating getting this truck is about as exciting as watching today’s OSU v Vanderbilt Regional baseball game…changing almost every inning ‍

 

[Tomwilli2025]

I have spent so many hours going through different wiring scenerios for my build and still trying to come up with best solutions. My issues is that I have a 120 foot pull with a 20 feet concrete slab in the middle. The slab has a 1.5" conduit with my fireplace starter gas line in it. So I've decide to remove that gas line. "wife doesn't know this yet". The city inspector says the conduit doesn't meet code so I have to put a piece schedule 40 or EMT in that conduit. With conduit generally being in 10 feet sections, the coupler needed to join conduit restricts me down to 1" unless I can find a 20 foot section. With 1" conduit, fill rate only allows 3 conductors of #4 and a #8 ground.

So, I'm thinking of.....
New circuit with a subpanel pulled to my garage. 125ft linear of cable. #4 2L, 1N and a #8 ground. Ran in Conduit of your choice. I will install 20’ of 1” EMT in the concrete slab. (I’m removing the gas line) Because for the flange on Sch 40, I think EMT with a Rain Tight Coupling may be smaller overall diameter. If I could get a 20 ft section of Sch40 I would’nt have to worry about joining them or overall diameter. Let me know your thoughts on the type conduit.



125ft of #4 2L, 1N and a #8 ground

100 or 125 amp GE Sub panel

2- 80 amp GE breakers (for main panel and sub)

70 amp (for future Ford Charge Station Pro)
50 amp GFI ( for NEMA 14-50)
Industrial NEMA 14-50 receptacle ( @ 24”- 30” from sub panel) plus box and plate

In wall junction box for future EVSE ( @ 24” – 30” from sub panel)

Anyone got any bright ideas..

Sponsored