Battery warranty explained?

[jefro]

No matter what you think your battery is, the Ford diag suite will have to provide the number for warranty. I had a BMW i3 and owners reported many times that they couldn't get warranty due to how they test the battery. And if you do get a warranty they don't say you get a NEW battery. Just one that will cover warranty.

Sponsored

 

[syrc]

if the battery is warranteed to not drop below 70% for 10 years (CA), do I need to bother shying away from the DC fast charging to save battery life?

 

[metroshot]

if the battery is warranteed to not drop below 70% for 10 years (CA), do I need to bother shying away from the DC fast charging to save battery life?

DCFC is more detrimental to battery packs due to the high current and heating.

If I had a choice, I'd charge L2 overnight as much as I can.

L2 charging is slow enough that the battery does not get stressed even to 100%.

I have been charging mine for 4 years to 100% and sign of degradation - probably due to SOC buffers.

I'd only use DCFC (L3) only when travelling distance / road trips.

 

[Regular150]

I have a 2011 Prius and Toyota replaced the battery after 9 years and like 8 months just before the 10 years warranty was up.
I was so surprised when they told me it was covered. I looked it up and Toyota actually changed the warranty from 8yrs to 10yrs, wow who does that?

Three Prius' all over 16 years old and 300,000 miles before one needed a battery. Aftermarket company put it in for less than $2,000. Still running great after 5 years and 80,000 miles.

If Ford ends up putting 400,000-600,000 1st gen Lightnings out, there's going to be plenty of renewed battery suppliers out there.

Additionally, I think the value of the Lightning battery when Blue Oval city 'Mining old Batteries'.

Think $2,300 for a 2003 Prius Catalytic Converter is the going rate at scrap, imagine the XXL lightning battery.

 

[AT193]

DCFC is more detrimental to battery packs due to the high current and heating.

If I had a choice, I'd charge L2 overnight as much as I can.

L2 charging is slow enough that the battery does not get stressed even to 100%.

I have been charging mine for 4 years to 100% and sign of degradation - probably due to SOC buffers.

I'd only use DCFC (L3) only when travelling distance / road trips.

Wondering about when the numbers flip from a safe rate of charge to detrimental to the battery? FCSP is supposed to be able to do 19.2kW, with the onboard rectifier converting it to DC. Assuming that won't cause excessive heat or battery degredation, correct? Is there a number that crossing over starts to increase heat too much and becomes a negative? For instance, there is a EA DCFC near me that has be dropped down to 31kW. Is that still considered detrimental to use often on a battery? I'm using it temporarily as I wait to get my home charger installed in a week or so. Not overly concerned because after this I will likely only use DCFC a few times a year. But more interested for my own EV knowledgebase.

 

[metroshot]

Wondering about when the numbers flip from a safe rate of charge to detrimental to the battery? FCSP is supposed to be able to do 19.2kW, with the onboard rectifier converting it to DC. Assuming that won't cause excessive heat or battery degredation, correct? Is there a number that crossing over starts to increase heat too much and becomes a negative? For instance, there is a EA DCFC near me that has be dropped down to 31kW. Is that still considered detrimental to use often on a battery? I'm using it temporarily as I wait to get my home charger installed in a week or so. Not overly concerned because after this I will likely only use DCFC a few times a year. But more interested for my own EV knowledgebase.

Since the ER battery has dual onboard chargers able to handle the 19kW from the L2 FCSP, I would not stress about battery degradation and leave charging maximum to 90% or so.

DCFC are direct DC voltage to battery which causes heating so for L3, I'd leave it at 80% if using frequently. Otherwise for trips on the road, it's safe to exceed 80%, it's just that charging current slows down past 80% and takes forever to get above 90%.

I have an SR battery with a single onboard charger (11kW) and I use my L2 charger to 100% charge once a week - not stressing at all about charging to 100% since it's not everyday....

 

[jefro]

Yesterday I read about a 100K mi 2018 Tesla that had 10% degradation.
So, ask yourself exactly how will you use this truck. Will you keep it 10 years? Do you need the truck to perform near 90% or near 70% at the end?

I'd baby the battery no matter how I expected to be in 10 years. If nothing else I'd have a slightly better trade in. I also park my stuff away from door dingers for that reason.

 

[Artificial Intelligence]

unless you're a corner case, charging everyday makes little sense. We never fill up gas tanks on a daily basis. I get it... a lot of us have range anxiety. I'm hoping with time that will go away

 

[AT193]

Since the ER battery has dual onboard chargers able to handle the 19kW from the L2 FCSP, I would not stress about battery degradation and leave charging maximum to 90% or so.

DCFC are direct DC voltage to battery which causes heating so for L3, I'd leave it at 80% if using frequently. Otherwise for trips on the road, it's safe to exceed 80%, it's just that charging current slows down past 80% and takes forever to get above 90%.

I have an SR battery with a single onboard charger (11kW) and I use my L2 charger to 100% charge once a week - not stressing at all about charging to 100% since it's not everyday....

Ah okay, so it's not only about the increased kW of the DC charging, but also the fact that it's bypassing the onboard rectifier and going direct to battery. So in theory if the DCFC near me was downgraded even more to 19kW it would still be safer to charger with the 19kW AC charger than the equivalent 19kW DC charger.

 

[Yellow Buddy]

if the battery is warranteed to not drop below 70% for 10 years (CA), do I need to bother shying away from the DC fast charging to save battery life?

On a gas car, do you avoid going to gas stations with potentially stale gas? With EVs it is easy to get into data analysis paralysis.

Save yourself the headache and just follow a simple rule.
Charge at home when you can, use the DCFC when you need to.

Yesterday I read about a 100K mi 2018 Tesla that had 10% degradation.
So, ask yourself exactly how will you use this truck. Will you keep it 10 years? Do you need the truck to perform near 90% or near 70% at the end?

I'd baby the battery no matter how I expected to be in 10 years. If nothing else I'd have a slightly better trade in. I also park my stuff away from door dingers for that reason.

I can confirm, 2 Teslas both over 100,000 miles and 5 years old. Mix of L2/SC, 90% charging daily. 100% for road trips, 9-10% degradation on both following the simple rule above.

I can also confirm, 1 Tesla over 100,000 miles and 6 years old, only charges on DCFC and has 20% degradation. Refer to post #4 from me for more details

 

[jefro]

Unless I get LiFePo4 cells I won't charge to 100% unless I need to for a trip.
Currently I set to 75%. I plug in evse every night just to keep electric bill in super economy rate. It's easy to do. Two steps and click. Every day I pre-condition using wall electracy so it's warm or cold when I take off.

 

[jefrank]

unless you're a corner case, charging everyday makes little sense. We never fill up gas tanks on a daily basis. I get it... a lot of us have range anxiety. I'm hoping with time that will go away

Living in the north means I'm pretty much charging my truck every day in the winter. When the temps are below freezing it needs to be plugged in so that the battery isn't using itself to keep warm. Some days I may only use 5-10% of the charge, but I'm still going to plug it in when I get home because I don't always know what I'm going to need the next day. In the summer, though I can often go a week between plugging it in.

Sponsored