F150 Lightning Audio Builds (Anybody Done One?) Why Not?

[Fast4U]

Has anyone had any issues with the LVB and converter keeping up with more power?

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[ragj1976]

I have not noticed using a jl 500/1 @2 ohms full tilt.

 

[GDN]

Has anyone had any issues with the LVB and converter keeping up with more power?

I have not - added a JL Audio 500/1 and VXi600/6. Don't run it too hard, but keep it busy for sure. No problems. I'm wired positive to the battery post and negative to the cab chassis behind the back seat where a ground already exists.

 

[Greased Lightning]

No issues running 1k watts RMS for about an hour a day. One time I did get a weird message in the middle of the night about a voltage drain. It was the one and only time my wife plugged in the truck and when I got in in the morning the turn signal was on.

 

[GDN]

No issues running 1k watts RMS for about an hour a day. One time I did get a weird message in the middle of the night about a voltage drain. It was the one and only time my wife plugged in the truck and when I got in in the morning the turn signal was on.

I have had that message a couple of times, but once was after adding my dash cam before the stereo install and many people report that once or twice and randomly. I no longer believe that message unless someone gets it repeatedly for a few days in a row.

 

[BennyTheBeaver]

Would adding a small capacitor (1 Farad) be a nice buffer for the smaller 12v LVB we have?

(For a system that similar to those listed above)

 

[BennyTheBeaver]

I finished my Audio Build this weekend on my 6 speaker Pro.

Got stuck on what fuse to use to switch the amp on/off with Push Start. Most of the obvious ones stayed on all the time. Fuse 37 (unused) was what I finally settled on.

I installed an Infinity component system up front and replaced the tweeters. I was able to reuse the Ford factory tweeter mounts with some small modifications to the brackets the Infinfity tweeters came with. Also Infinity speakers in the rear. Sounds amazing, couldn't be happier. Day and night difference from the factory paper cones.

Components used:

Infinity REF-9630cx (front component speakers)
Infinity REF-6532ix (rear speakers)
Infinity Primus 6004a (speaker amp)

I also had a custom wire harness made so I didn't have to touch the factory wiring or splice into anything.

The front components with that amp would really be more than enough bass for most people.

 

[kwalt21]

I purchased a meanwell 12V 100A DC power supply that I have used in my garage for years now.. It runs a 1000W Rockford Fosgate amp and you would never know its not hooked up to a battery. This is what I plan to use in my lightning. Saves having to run power wires from the firewall. Makes it easier to remove too!!

 

[kwalt21]

I finished my Audio Build this weekend on my 6 speaker Pro.

Got stuck on what fuse to use to switch the amp on/off with Push Start. Most of the obvious ones stayed on all the time. Fuse 37 (unused) was what I finally settled on.

I installed an Infinity component system up front and replaced the tweeters. I was able to reuse the Ford factory tweeter mounts with some small modifications to the brackets the Infinfity tweeters came with. Also Infinity speakers in the rear. Sounds amazing, couldn't be happier. Day and night difference from the factory paper cones.

Components used:

Infinity REF-9630cx (front component speakers)
Infinity REF-6532ix (rear speakers)
Infinity Primus 6004a (speaker amp)

I also had a custom wire harness made so I didn't have to touch the factory wiring or splice into anything.

The front components with that amp would really be more than enough bass for most people.

Does the amp have a "power sense" feature? A lot of the amps these days have this due to most factory stereos having a 5v digital signal. It will detect when voltage is applied to the input side of the amp and turn it on without the need for a 12v remote wire.

 

[BennyTheBeaver]

Does the amp have a "power sense" feature? A lot of the amps these days have this due to most factory stereos having a 5v digital signal. It will detect when voltage is applied to the input side of the amp and turn it on without the need for a 12v remote wire.

Not sure to be honest, even if it did I needed the remote wire to also turn on the Keyloc and the sub.

The custom wire harness I acquired had a built in fuse tap for the remote wire, so I didn't have to pull extra wire. I just had to locate the correct fuse to use.

That wire harness included speaker returns. I ended up mounting the front speaker crossovers next to the amp, utilized the factory speaker wire for the front door and rear door speakers. I chose to run new wires to the tweeters.

 

[GDN]

Not sure to be honest, even if it did I needed the remote wire to also turn on the Keyloc and the sub.

The custom wire harness I acquired had a built in fuse tap for the remote wire, so I didn't have to pull extra wire. I just had to locate the correct fuse to use.

That wire harness included speaker returns. I ended up mounting the front speaker crossovers next to the amp, utilized the factory speaker wire for the front door and rear door speakers. I chose to run new wires to the tweeters.

You have to run new wires to the tweeters if they get power from the new amp. The Tweeters in the low end B&O system are powered from the head unit, not the amp behind the seat.

 

[BennyTheBeaver]

You have to run new wires to the tweeters if they get power from the new amp. The Tweeters in the low end B&O system are powered from the head unit, not the amp behind the seat.

Yeah. I have the bare bones 6 speaker system on the Pro. The tweeters were receiving a full range signal from the head unit (the signal is spliced together at the door connection). The Pro's (and I assume XLT) head unit only outputs 4 channels for the 6 speakers (from the research I have done). I utilized the factory wiring for the door speakers (with my crossovers) and, like you said, ran seperate wires to the tweeters (really easy) instead of trying to locate where it was spliced in and wrestle with that. I secured the factory wire connectors for the tweeters and left them behind the pillar.

The system sounds fantastic.

 

[GDN]

Yeah. I have the bare bones 6 speaker system on the Pro. The tweeters were receiving a full range signal from the head unit (the signal is spliced together at the door connection). The Pro's (and I assume XLT) head unit only outputs 4 channels for the 6 speakers (from the research I have done). I utilized the factory wiring for the door speakers (with my crossovers) and, like you said, ran seperate wires to the tweeters (really easy) instead of trying to locate where it was spliced in and wrestle with that. I secured the factory wire connectors for the tweeters and left them behind the pillar.

The system sounds fantastic.

Thanks - good to know and how each of the system will vary just a little bit. So it sounds like regardless of which system you have, if doing an upgrade Tweeters will always need new wires. The good news is they are easy to run.

 

[ragj1976]

Question for those who have upgraded and disconnected the rears for fronts only active. Have you lost your proximity beeps when in reverse? I am using the zen a2b interface. Wonder if we can route that “beep” to the front channel?

 

[BennyTheBeaver]

Question for those who have upgraded and disconnected the rears for fronts only active. Have you lost your proximity beeps when in reverse? I am using the zen a2b interface. Wonder if we can route that “beep” to the front channel?

When I upgraded my 6 speakers on my Pro (and ran them all thru an amp) I had to add resistors to the wires to allow the speakers to continue to have system tones.

Is that what you ate wondering?

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