Lightning Software Updates using FDRS

[chillaban]

BTW I've blown two Clove Prologix 2320's doing FDRS updates now. Both were in Power Supply Mode, and on one of the cycles of the truck turning off and on during updates, they made a bit of a POP and then no longer turn on. I suspect some sort of fuse, maybe the abruptness of the voltage dropping during updates and suddenly rising when FDRS says to turn on the ignition?

Anyone have anything else in the $100-200 range that they had good luck with?

To finish an update yesterday I was desperate enough to run out to AutoZone and grab their store brand 3A/15A smart AGM charger ($89) and to my surprise it actually worked very well.

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[Mike G]

BTW I've blown two Clove Prologix 2320's doing FDRS updates now. Both were in Power Supply Mode, and on one of the cycles of the truck turning off and on during updates, they made a bit of a POP and then no longer turn on. I suspect some sort of fuse, maybe the abruptness of the voltage dropping during updates and suddenly rising when FDRS says to turn on the ignition?

Anyone have anything else in the $100-200 range that they had good luck with?

To finish an update yesterday I was desperate enough to run out to AutoZone and grab their store brand 3A/15A smart AGM charger ($89) and to my surprise it actually worked very well.

Weird. I have one of the 2320 and a 6100. While I generally use the 6100 these days I've never heard of anybody blowing a 2320 during updates.

 

[chillaban]

Weird. I have one of the 2320 and a 6100. While I generally use the 6100 these days I've never heard of anybody blowing a 2320 during updates.

Hmm I wonder if I'm using it wrong, or if there's any recent hardware changes to it? I use the button on the left to put it in PS mode before starting to update. Connected to the jump post and body ground (not directly to the battery).

My 2320 and its replacement both have the year 2021 printed on the unit.

 

[rugedraw]

@chillaban I've done over 50 hours worth of module programming on my Noco Genius 10. It's still strong like bull.

 

[chillaban]

@chillaban I've done over 50 hours worth of module programming on my Noco Genius 10. It's still strong like bull.

Thanks, this will be the next one I try as I don't love generic battery chargers without a PS mode because they can unpredictably conclude charging is done and go into trickle mode.

Is 10A enough in your experience? I've never applied an IPMA update but heard horror stories about the power draw being even to the point that 20A is barely enough.

 

[rugedraw]

Thanks, this will be the next one I try as I don't love generic battery chargers without a PS mode because they can unpredictably conclude charging is done and go into trickle mode.

Is 10A enough in your experience? I've never applied an IPMA update but heard horror stories about the power draw being even to the point that 20A is barely enough.

No issues. I CAN'd an IPC update that took 6 hours alone into my truck a year ago, CAN'd another IPC update 2 months ago that took 3-4 hours, done two IPMA updates that took hours, side-loaded F350 IPMA software into my truck with FORscan that took 3 hours and I never went below 12v. The first time I performed module updates on my truck, I was doing updates for 13 hours straight with no issues.

 

[Mike G]

No issues. I CAN'd an IPC update that took 6 hours alone into my truck a year ago, CAN'd another IPC update 2 months ago that took 3-4 hours, done two IPMA updates that took hours, side-loaded F350 IPMA software into my truck with FORscan that took 3 hours and I never went below 12v. The first time I performed module updates on my truck, I was doing updates for 13 hours straight with no issues.

None of those have only a 35Ah 12V battery though.

 

[rugedraw]

None of those have only a 35Ah 12V battery though.

If the Lighting battery is different and you recommend something more than 10amp, than @chillaban I would listen to Mike.

 

[bmwhitetx]

If the Lighting battery is different and you recommend something more than 10amp, than @chillaban I would listen to Mike.

I'm confused - do you own a Lightning? All the updates and experiences you mentioned I assumed were for a Lightning (although a tune sounded odd). Your profile shows a ICE but again assumed you hadn't updated it to include a Lightning.

 

[rugedraw]

I'm confused - do you own a Lightning? All the updates and experiences you mentioned I assumed were for a Lightning (although a tune sounded odd). Your profile shows a ICE but again assumed you hadn't updated it to include a Lightning.

I do not own a Lightning. I am mostly here to get more insight on the OTA history of your trucks to create a log of all Lightning updates like I did here for the ICE trucks:

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/thr...-history-thread-f-150-lightning-mach-e.16968/

While many things are similar, I am quickly learning that many are not.

 

[data003]

BTW I've blown two Clove Prologix 2320's doing FDRS updates now. Both were in Power Supply Mode, and on one of the cycles of the truck turning off and on during updates, they made a bit of a POP and then no longer turn on. I suspect some sort of fuse, maybe the abruptness of the voltage dropping during updates and suddenly rising when FDRS says to turn on the ignition?

Anyone have anything else in the $100-200 range that they had good luck with?

To finish an update yesterday I was desperate enough to run out to AutoZone and grab their store brand 3A/15A smart AGM charger ($89) and to my surprise it actually worked very well.

I use two 2320s, no problems yet. I plug them into separate circuits… maybe that helps?

 

[mr.Magoo]

I've used a single 2320, kind of sort of by mistake, for my first update and that went fine, but I started getting a but nervous when the voltage started hitting 11.5V, so it is definitely not something I would recommend.

I did not do the long IPC update over CAN, instead I did that via USB.

I thought about getting a second unit, but decided in the end that I want to keep it simple and just use a single unit, and while the Clore 6100 unit is a better choice (less expensive and more umph) I oped for the CTek 25A pro because it doesn't require a 20A plug like the Clore and since the 20A would almost do it another 5A would hopefully be enough.

I tried the CTek today and it held 12V pretty steadily, dropped to 11.9 and back to 12-12.1v (as indicated by FDRS, did not use a separate multimeter to confirm).

I would personally feel even better if there was a 30-40A option, but that decision is up to you.

If anyone is interested in my now left over Clore let me know.

 

[mr.Magoo]

Speaking of USB updates, have anyone had issues with different types of sticks ?

I bought a SanDisk Pro (SSD based) USB stick and used it for my previous update and that worked just fine.

This time it would not register, and I tried to reformat (exfat) and all sorts of things (shut off the truck, restarted sync, etc.) but all I got was a "device only supports charging", so in the end I had to use an older 8GB which took forever (I know they recommend 32+ but the update was only 1GB, so...) Only thing I could think of is if they somehow stopped supporting 256gb sticks, so I ordered a 128gb of the same type to see if it would work.

 

[AmandaB]

I use 2 Clore PL2320’s and have had no issues.

 

[uccbcc]

Always do any GWM, APIM, or TCU first (in that order) before tackling anything else.

So in this case after the GWM (assuming an APIM doesn't pop up afterward) you'd select the PCM and follow along with the scripted update that will do all of the powertrain items as a set. After that I'd do the OBCC and leave the BCM for last. You will get asked after the BCM if you want to do the TPMS relearn, just say no. You haven't done a tire rotation during your programming so there's no reason to do a TPMS relearn.

For multiple updates requiring the USB stick do you need to delete or reformat the drive before using it again?

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