Lightning Software Updates using FDRS

[Mike G]

For multiple updates requiring the USB stick do you need to delete or reformat the drive before using it again?

Everytime.

Never leave any old files on there.

It only takes a second to reformat.

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[Mike G]

Also it's best to either leave the name of the drive blank or keep it very simple. Long drive names will cause write failures. I just name my drive 'FDRS' and that's it.

 

[Mike G]

Speaking of USB updates, have anyone had issues with different types of sticks ?

I bought a SanDisk Pro (SSD based) USB stick and used it for my previous update and that worked just fine.

This time it would not register, and I tried to reformat (exfat) and all sorts of things (shut off the truck, restarted sync, etc.) but all I got was a "device only supports charging", so in the end I had to use an older 8GB which took forever (I know they recommend 32+ but the update was only 1GB, so...) Only thing I could think of is if they somehow stopped supporting 256gb sticks, so I ordered a 128gb of the same type to see if it would work.

I don't think the standards have changed. I don't think I've ever seen a message like the one you got.

 

[chillaban]

FWIW I’m using a Samsung USB3 flash drive which is pretty fast. It also says “only charging supported” on the APIM briefly but the update still happens.

 

[uccbcc]

Doing the BCM last brings me to LIN new module initialization. I’m on level ground and the voltage is set… but not sure about any extra steps in the workshop manual. . Abort or go? Lol

 

[Mike G]

Doing the BCM last brings me to LIN new module initialization. I’m on level ground and the voltage is set… but not sure about any extra steps in the workshop manual. . Abort or go? Lol

Pretty sure that’s not part of the plan.
That didn’t happen when I did the BCM.

 

[uccbcc]

Pretty sure that’s not part of the plan.
That didn’t happen when I did the BCM.

The verbiage was a bit different too - "Turn to position I" and "Turn to position II". That was the only funky thing that happened all the rest installed ok. The frunk would not close after being open for 4 hours but got that sorted. Used a Clore PL2320 and saw some dips down to 12v - . Gonna go ahead and get a better one. Thanks for the tutorage!

 

[Mike G]

The verbiage was a bit different too - "Turn to position I" and "Turn to position II". That was the only funky thing that happened all the rest installed ok. The frunk would not close after being open for 4 hours but got that sorted. Used a Clore PL2320 and saw some dips down to 12v - . Gonna go ahead and get a better one. Thanks for the tutorage!

Frunk will always have to be closed manually one time after programming is done. It will open and close electrically after that, as normal.

I've seen it dip down to as low as 10.1V.

Once.

And then I pulled my Powerboost alongside and very quickly attached the jumper cables to the backside of the PL2320's clamps to get the voltage back up on the MME I was programming above the near-death experience. I then got on Ebay and bought a PL6100.

I later found out from another member who was thinking outside the box that it would have been cheaper to just buy another PL2320 and piggyback the clamps. Smart guy that one.... That's what @AmandaB does now and it works fine.

 

[chillaban]

Frunk will always have to be closed manually one time after programming is done. It will open and close electrically after that, as normal.

I've seen it dip down to as low as 10.1V.

Once.

And then I pulled my Powerboost alongside and very quickly attached the jumper cables to the backside of the PL2320's clamps to get the voltage back up on the MME I was programming above the near-death experience. I then got on Ebay and bought a PL6100.

I later found out from another member who was thinking outside the box that it would have been cheaper to just buy another PL2320 and piggyback the clamps. Smart guy that one.... That's what @AmandaB does now and it works fine.

When I was desperate at AutoZone last week I was almost tempted to buy one of their larger marine 12V batteries (a little over 100 bucks) and combine that with the PL2320 or even just a normal 15-20A charger.

The bigger 12V power supplies are just so pricey for someone like me who occasionally applies FDRS updates and has no other purpose for this equipment. I would probably repurpose the marine 12V battery to run some of my security cameras with a solar panel to top them off.

 

[sstevetx]

Thanks for all this useful info here. I just got my 22 Lariat ER last week and want to get all the updates. I just ordered the Mongoose and a 2nd Clore PL2320. Would someone mind taking a look at my VIN, so I can get a head start? Thanks

VIN: 1FT6W1EV1NWG00694

 

[Mike G]

Thanks for all this useful info here. I just got my 22 Lariat ER last week and want to get all the updates. I just ordered the Mongoose and a 2nd Clore PL2320. Would someone mind taking a look at my VIN, so I can get a head start? Thanks

VIN: 1FT6W1EV1NWG00694

5 Apr '22 build date.

Here's the list of available updates:

Is your PAAK working? I only ask because you have two of the updates that I thought were required for it to work.

Also, you have both a GWM and an APIM at the same time in your list which is an indication that your truck has not been getting routine updates for some time.

When your Mongoose gets in and you have a high speed USB 3.1 32GB thumb drive I recommend you start with the GWM first, the APIM next, any other GWM/APIM/ or TCU that pops up after that and once those are all done then start on the PCM which will do all of your powertrain updates in a scripted sequence, and then go for the BCM and RFA, and finally the ACM and OBCC.

That will keep you busy for about one morning. Remember Ford does server maintenance on Sunday mornings....

 

[sstevetx]

5 Apr '22 build date.

Here's the list of available updates:

Is your PAAK working? I only ask because you have two of the updates that I thought were required for it to work.

Also, you have both a GWM and an APIM at the same time in your list which is an indication that your truck has not been getting routine updates for some time.

When your Mongoose gets in and you have a high speed USB 3.1 32GB thumb drive I recommend you start with the GWM first, the APIM next, any other GWM/APIM/ or TCU that pops up after that and once those are all done then start on the PCM which will do all of your powertrain updates in a scripted sequence, and then go for the BCM and RFA, and finally the ACM and OBCC.

That will keep you busy for about one morning. Remember Ford does server maintenance on Sunday mornings....

Thank you so much Mike for looking this up and the help on the order of updates. My PAAK does not work and is not even an option in the Ford Pass app. Ford Pass support told me my software was out of date and have the dealer update it. Dealer told me 2 weeks without a truck, which led me to this thread.

 

[Mike G]

Thank you so much Mike for looking this up and the help on the order of updates. My PAAK does not work and is not even an option in the Ford Pass app. Ford Pass support told me my software was out of date and have the dealer update it. Dealer told me 2 weeks without a truck, which led me to this thread.

Well if I can help with any questions please let me know or post you question here and others can jump in as well.

 

[TaxmanHog]

2-3 week waits w/o our trucks convinces me it's WORTH IT to own the tools needed to do as much of these updates as possible.

 

[snowy_91]

2-3 week waits w/o our trucks convinces me it's WORTH IT to own the tools needed to do as much of these updates as possible.

Ya, they were a bit pricey but the PL6100 is the best battery charger I have ever owned..

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