I have a suspicion that one of the reasons the math doesn't math is how Ford determines SOC and what a kWh is when it comes to efficiency. You'll notice you can put a full charge on your battery no matter what the temperature is but what does that SOC really mean? As far as the efficiency calculations go, I think they all base it on the battery containing 131kWhs of potential energy (ER battery). But the truck can only measure the % of the battery capacity (via voltage difference no less), and can't/wont figure that at the current temperature, there's really only 100kWh in there (or whatever). It then figures 1% of SOC is 1.31 kWh when it's really only 1, so your efficiency in cold weather never really seems to line up with the calculation. Since it's warm here, I usually see better results overall, and while I've never done a full to 0 run, I find that my numbers mostly match up.
Math don't lie. I have a 55 mile commute and I average 15% SOC. That's 55 / ( 15 * 1.31 ) = 2.8
I don't believe anyone is claiming they get 2.9 with regular freeway driving. Road trips are a completely different ball park than what most of us are claiming. I try to always qualify (quantify?) my efficiency with a description of my normal commute. So yeah, I probably could get close to 380 just driving my daily commute (which is only a couple miles on the freeway, at 65 and moderate traffic). But I follow the advice of @MickeyAO and other leading battery experts by charging often to keep my delta's as low as possible. So I'm not really keen to drain the battery to prove it (as much as a picture can prove anything on the internet).
I've often seen those low consumption rates when driving around town which is fairly flat at speeds of around 35-45 mph.. I think wind resistance is definitely a factor. Everything has a bearing on the outcom though. I'm thinking about upping the tire pressure to around 48 and see if it improves. Warm temperature has definitely has favorably affected range in the past on my Volt, but I don't know if temp directly affects consumption.I’m only a month into ownership, but I loved driving my kid around to get her to sleep, listening to a ball game and at the end hit a personal best in mi/kwh
Mine is based on my mileage and charging data. What data set are you using?
Maybe you missed the point of our posts, this is what we are seeing. I can drive 100 miles an hour into a head wind and see crappy mileage too
Agreed.Maybe you missed the point of our posts, this is what we are seeing. I can drive 100 miles an hour into a head wind and see crappy mileage too
The point is, that is not what we are seeing. As the EPA sticker says, YOUR mileage will vary.
Please don’t try to invalidate our experience because you don’t drive in the exact same conditions or ways we do.
I’m only a month into ownership, but I loved driving my kid around to get her to sleep, listening to a ball game and at the end hit a personal best in mi/kwh
I charged on level 1 at my house for 2.5 months waiting for my FCSP to arrive and get installed. It's not a big deal. There are only 2 cons that I'm aware of. First, it's slightly less efficient to charge on level 1 (in terms of energy consumed to charge). The bigger con of being less efficient is that you may not be able to charge in your reduced rate window if you are on TOU utility pricing. Second, you can't precondition the battery on level 1 (only a problem in very cold weather).
Except that you did...
I think one aspect to keep in mind is cost efficiency vs mileage efficiency. If you base your numbers on the energy from the meter into the battery, that's cost efficiency (which will always look worse due to losses while charging). The intent of this post is mileage efficiency, the actual distance being driven for the energy getting spent. At least, that's my take on it and I wonder if that's the source of some of this debate?
