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Trailer brake not working

UGADawg96

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Every pre-trip inspection and routine should include slowly rolling from a stop and engaging the trailer brakes, whether towing a small trailer behind a pickup truck to an 18 wheeler at 80k lbs. But I used to drive semis back in the day. Same process to verify proper hitching and trailer brake operation. Maybe that's my OCD, hah :)
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JEB

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JEB, I think you're suggesting that people may not notice the trailer brakes aren't working and need to verify with manual operation ... my case is a 7500lb car hauler and I suspect Antimatter is a similar weight travel trailer. You'd have to really be not paying attention to not notice if the trailer brakes were working or not ... with that sort of weight, the difference is profound, not to mention the obvious feel of the trailer brakes engaging!

Anyway, FWIW, subsequent to the trip back from Pitt Race I have also verified trailer brakes operation pulling out of my driveway with a manual squeeze, only to lose the brakes again a mile down the road ...
No need to get testy. I too have towed a lot of miles and on this particular truck I didn’t immediately notice the trailer brakes were out and it wasn’t inattention or lack of appreciation for mass. I was towing 6500 lbs on the flats and I thought the brakes were just misadjusted until I had to make a hard stop at speed. Then I knew. Going downhill for significant distances isn’t a particularly good test of brake performance either—your and Antimatter’s stated scenarios— because there are a lot of ways to control a truck/trailer that don’t rely on heavy use of the brakes. In fact, it’s good practice not to rely exclusively on brakes going down a mountain to avoid overheating heating them and degrading their performance. But I’m sure you alreday knew that. So, it’s entirely possible under these downhill conditions not to know the trailer brakes were completely out, particularly if using other speed mitigating measures.

In any event, all I was trying to do is figure out if there was a workaround until Ford fixes what is a very serious problem. If directly interrogating the brake controller before setting off isn’t that workaround, fine. At least I know what I’m dealing with and what has been tried and isn’t working.
 

chrisp993

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JEB, I was just surprised you'd think someone wouldn't notice the brakes not working, but understand that may vary with circumstance - for me the car hauler is 7,500 lbs or maybe more, I have the controller set @ 7 and my particular hitch gives a bit of a "clunk" when the trailer brakes engage but YMMV. Agreed that engine braking would be better for steep long descents.

I think based on mine and Antimatter's experience, the trailer brake controller has shown to fail to work, randomly, some time after starting out - to me that suggests a marginal mechanical connection coming loose but I don't think it rules out the truck electronics. I have tried to connect per my "looser" photo above, but can't reproduce the no brake condition. Frustrating!
 
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Antimatter

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To add to what ChrisP said, verifying the trailer brakes are engaging by a squeeze of the lever is a part of standard hookup and safety checks at the beginning of the towing day every single time.

To add to what JEB said, it is maddening to know they were tested and working only to find them not there when you need them.
 

JEB

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JEB, I was just surprised you'd think someone wouldn't notice the brakes not working, but understand that may vary with circumstance - for me the car hauler is 7,500 lbs or maybe more, I have the controller set @ 7 and my particular hitch gives a bit of a "clunk" when the trailer brakes engage but YMMV. Agreed that engine braking would be better for steep long descents.

I think based on mine and Antimatter's experience, the trailer brake controller has shown to fail to work, randomly, some time after starting out - to me that suggests a marginal mechanical connection coming loose but I don't think it rules out the truck electronics. I have tried to connect per my "looser" photo above, but can't reproduce the no brake condition. Frustrating!
I know that it isn’t a loose connection. It’s wonky programming. When my brakes were’t working the way they were supposed to, for some reason I tried something completely unconventional—I turned on the headlights. The brakes immediately locked up. Full lock up. Turned off the headlights, brakes completely released. Fortunately, I was only creeping along at the time so it wasn’t dangerous. But it could have been disastrous at highway speed.

I think what’s happening is that these so-called “smart“ plugs are looking for the heaviest load and self configuring, assuming the heaviest load is on the brakes because you have to start the motor with your foot on the brake pedal. When a different pin has a heavier load than the brake pin, that pin gets assigned the brake function. Again, only a theory but it’s the only way I can account for headlights activating the trailer brakes.
 

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chrisp993

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I forgot your headlight comment - and you're right, that points to a controller that's just way too smart for its own good :unsure: although I don't understand how that leads to the programming switching function sometime during a journey? But scary, considering the truck would usually have headlights set to automatically turn on - which if it led to lock up trailer at a bad moment would be even worse than the scenario of unexpectedly having no trailer brakes ?
 

diesel97

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Someone should try running a ground jumper between the truck and trailer(a piece of wire a couple of gator clips) and see what happens. I know grounds raise hell in trailing problems and with all this "smart stuff" and aluminum bodies it can just make it worst.

I don't have a truck YET, just putting my 2cents in
 

JEB

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I forgot your headlight comment - and you're right, that points to a controller that's just way too smart for its own good :unsure: although I don't understand how that leads to the programming switching function sometime during a journey? But scary, considering the truck would usually have headlights set to automatically turn on - which if it led to lock up trailer at a bad moment would be even worse than the scenario of unexpectedly having no trailer brakes ?
I can’t explain it either. I had visions of going into a tunnel and. . . .

Anyway, I just did a test run. Unlike yesterday, I made certain the brake controller was showing a connected status and functioning normally before I left my driveway. Ignored the “trailer connected” pop up and focused solely on the brake gain pop up. Drove for 90 minutes straight without cycling the ignition in varied conditions—urban, expressway, country roads. No disconnects. So, fortunately or unfortunately, I couldn’t replicate your random mid-transit disconnect. For now, I will just be vigilant and continue to triple check the brake controller separately and ignore the unhelpful “trailer connected” pop up every time I start the motor and hope for the best.
 

Tambow

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JEB, other people seem to have had success with this also, and it makes sense from perspective of truck electronics somehow needing a clean slate to calibrate the brake output ... although other vehicles seen to manage just fine! However it doesn't account for the trailer brakes disappearing randomly some time after the journey has started :unsure: This method also involves a reconnection, so could be that is the difference?

I'd still be interested if anyone else with this issue has an opinion on how well the 4-pin adapter plug supplied with the truck fits the truck receptacle - good? bad? compared with other trucks?
The engine in my powerboost turns off all the time when I'm driving. Could that be the issue?
 

diesel97

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The engine in my powerboost turns off all the time when I'm driving. Could that be the issue?
It seems to be happening on non-power boost also
 

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NVanRVer

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I've been having all the same issues as you guys, incredibly frustrating. And to the question a few posts back, I had the brakes stop working mid trip (no shutdowns), verified by using the manual lever. In this case, they worked for the first 45 mins of drive, then I let it idle for about 10 mins while I grabbed groceries (for fear of it not working if I turned it off), set off and tested, nothing. I then drove another 45 mins or so with no brakes (it was flat, I babied it). Stopped, tried all the tricks and nothing worked. Finally resorted to using a small dab of copper based never-seize on the ground and brake pins and voila they worked for the rest of the trip (~3 hrs). Thank god too as we had some major hills to climb and descend. By the way it is a 7600 lb travel trailer, so I know if they are working.

So I am stuck now with an unreliable tow vehicle. I am going to take it into the dealer, but I am sure that won't be a silver bullet. I guess I could get an after market controller installed, but that's ridiculous on a brand new truck! I am loathe to go down the road of adding resistors to the brake circuit either.
 

NVanRVer

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Oh and the really annoying thing, is that the truck performed flawlessly other than the brake issue. All around southern BC in hot temperatures, it was great. Lots of power, good handling etc. but this is a deal breaker.
 

JEB

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Finally resorted to using a small dab of copper based never-seize on the ground and brake pins and voila they worked for the rest of the trip (~3 hrs).
Interesting. But I’m curious as to whether this actually did anything. I’m presuming you didn’t put the copper grease on the ground and brake pin while the truck was running. So it begs the question: Did the grease work? Or did you fix the problem because you turned off the ignition, opened and closed the door and gave the truck time to power down fully while you applied it?
 
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tderouchie

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My trailer brakes eventually quit every time I pull my camper. Sometimes they quit within the first 5 mins, sometimes after a couple of hours. The way I "fix" it in order to finish my trip is by disconnecting my battery for a minute(not very convenient) and continuing my trek. I've been to my dealer a few times but never when it's acting up. My dealer is fantastic and trying everything they can. Seems like an engineering/software issue. Hopefully Ford is on it and it gets resolved soon.
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