Search results

OK as promised I did the down-the-mountain test. I was lucky enough to get a friend to drive in front of me who didn't mind a little tailgating. We did it twice. I couldn't get the brake lights to come on from regen in 2-pedal mode without using cruise control, which is cheating. The display...

I want one of these, I will totally buy one if they're reasonably priced and maybe even if not, and I am hoping @Jesse-Infotainment gets a decent chunk of change for his work on this and all the other ways he helps our community. What happens to the folding shifter when this is installed? Does...

Just FWIW, not only Teslas but also many ICE cars will illuminate the brake lights at a decelleration threshold, whether the friction brakes are engaged or not. This all started decades ago with a recall of early BMW X-Drive vehicles which were getting rear-ended because the X-Drive cruise...

The behavior may be different in 2-pedal mode. If so, it will just approximate what a truck with a manual transmission would do when jake (engine) braking. I will drive down the mountain after dark tomorrow (I am in the flatlands today) and find out.

Will do. This should be a fun test.

"REGEN never applies the brakes" and "regen never illuminates the brake lights" are not the same.

Not just 'on" the brake (what we'd call "covering" the brake on a motorcycle) but actively pressing it down towards the floor, right? When starting the truck, when putting it in gear, when stopped with the gear selector in "Drive"? The auto-hold feature in particular makes it easy to mess this...

OK, LED lighting coverage (which does concern me a little) aside, I have a totally different question. I know you can get a pro-rated refund if you sell the vehicle while there's still time/miles left on the ESP. But can you transfer the ESP with the vehicle instead? We'll probably give or...

In my case, there was definitely no glitch in the software; there was a glitch in the wetware, one I didn't understand until quite a while later. There have been hundreds of these threads about almost every concievable vehicle, and news reports and controversies going all the way back to the...

I hit a trailer at a stoplight a couple years ago. I was baffled how - I was so confused that the truck seemed to do the opposite of my control inputs and didn't slow at all as I slammed on the brakes - I thought I must have fallen asleep at the wheel (I was driving home after a very long day...

They've got the government at war with anything that doesn't help burn more oil, and too many out of control dealers who make it unpleasant to buy and own an EV and damage the Ford brand. It's impressive they sell as many as they do. From what I hear, the good dealers who really are out there...

That the charger is only 50kW is a pretty good sign it's significantly current limited. It can probably only hit that 50kW number when your pack is well above 400V. Some other vehicles have packs with higher voltage even though they are all "400V" systems. Used to see this all the time with...

You can use a NACS extension cord with a NACS to J1772 adapter on the end; or a J1772 extension cord with the NACS to J1772 adapter placed before it. But I think you will not be able to find a J1772 or NACS extension cord that is safe to use with an 80A vehicle and charger, so if you were...

The A2Z Thunderstorm Lite has a NACS connector on the vehicle end - you'll then also need an 80A rated NACS to J1772 adapter (the A2Z is a good one).

The Hansshow "80A" AC charging adapter *looks* very "secure and beefy" too, but as noted in the post linked above, when disassembled (or when it disassembles itself, also as described in the linked post) it turns out to be incredibly dangerous garbage. And Hansshow clearly know it, too, since...

You could not pay me to put a Hansshow product in the DC charging path of my truck. Here is some perspective on Hansshow: https://www.f150lightningforum.com/forum/threads/tesla-destination-to-j1772-80-amp-recommendations.18270/#post-367005

I've had the surprising experience of a small "pop" when disengaging the J1772 cable once or twice in the past few months. Inspecting the cable and port, I haven't seen any arc damage, but I might have caught a whiff of ozone. Sounds like I need to have that actuator and pin checked out.

I don't think ensuring any new battery connected is fully charged is without rationale - the BMS has to learn a number of parameters of the battery and it should be much more efficient if it starts at a known state of charge. But, if the service manual doesn't say to do it - OK.

Am I correct in my recollection that the BMS reset procedure should only be run with a freshly charged battery connected?