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It should just stay in the drive mode you left it in - ideally by driver profile. The only exception is off-road mode, which locks the differential and affects TCS. Most regions mandate that TCS be fully enabled at startup (ie. turn Off-Road mode off automatically.)

As @K6CCC said, you can inspect the coolant level without removing covers. Open Frunk, look through the large slot for the frunk actuator on the driver's side. A flashlight might be needed but it's really easy to see the level. You still have to remove the cover to top it up if needed. Not...

I used it regularly on my 2023 before they removed it. It was good for planning out the charge stops. Now I have to use other tools.

I'd recommend you take a video when it gives you trouble so the dealer has evidence. It's normal for things to move a bit slower in the cold, but not as slow as you guys are describing. In @Robert1380's case, the symptoms appeared suddenly, so it may be that there is a defect in the window...

The no-charge thing is a real pain. It makes you start the day scrambling. I've set my software update window toward the end of my charge window, so I get most of the night to charge before the update window opens and potentially disrupts charging. If an update causes a glitch, the truck...

I'd take it to the dealer first. It is a new truck, so the window should work perfectly for multiple years before needing additional lubrication. If it is slow already in your first year, there is something not quite right with it.

Agree if you equate Departure Time to Preconditioning. Heating the battery is preconditioning the battery for charging, and it will help if you really need those few extra miles to get home - otherwise pretty useless. In the OP's case, the numbers in the app show 1.2kw usage (after losses), but...

It doesn't seem to give up. It will keep trying to use the 1kW to warm the battery. It just won't have much impact if it is soaking out the bottom of the truck as fast as it is going in. It is all relative to how cold it is. A 1kW heater running on an open porch in -20° will only slightly...

I wonder if the battery is NMC or LFP?

I probably wouldn't bother. It probably isn't worth the effort in the winter unless you are tight on winter range to get home. It will probably burn a wee bit less energy on your trip home if the battery is a bit warmer and may result in a slightly lower energy requirement at home on your L2...

Are you using L1 during the day just to top up, or is L1 your primary charging method? L1 as a primary charging method does not work for the Lightning in the winter. If you are just trying to top up while at work, keep it plugged in, and as you've seen, you won't get much other than a...

I don't think this is an easy fix for the OP since the lock mechanism is connected to the door lock system on the truck and the pocketed keyfob/PAAK requires a touch sensor to unlock, which the port does not have. To my knowledge, Forscan options have not been found for either enabling (for...

I'm going to take mine apart and see why it is sticky. I'll just buy the new part if it looks like that will fix the issue. My bigger concern is whether the design of the new part has been updated to fix the issue. Clearly, there are quite a number of us with this problem across all F150s.

Yes, check my post #11. I updated the post with both part numbers.

Unfortunately, I'm out of warranty on mine just a month ago and it started sticking again when the temperature dropped last week. The upside is that the part isn't terribly expensive and is the same part as ICE F150s. ML3Z-13K359-BA for rain-sensing trucks. ML3Z-13K359-AA for non-rain-sensing...

Mine originally worked fine, but it was replaced with the Heated Steering CSP and now sticks on the left turn lane change. It is supposed to flash 3 times for a lane change. 50% of the time in the cold weather, it sticks in this position and doesn't turn off without a manual lift on the stick...

No to DeoxIT. It leaves a residue and not good for high current applications. Others are ok - Alcohol is way better than DeoxIT. Use compressed air to blow any potential fibers away both before and after. Use a NO RESIDUE cleaner.

WD40 Specialist Contact cleaner is not standard WD40 and is specially formulated as a contact cleaner. I have not used it for this purpose but it states that it leaves no residue, which should be ok for cleaning the port and gun contacts. Definitely do not use standard WD40 for this, as it...

DeOxIT leaves a protective residue. This should not be used for high current contacts - especially DCFC. It works wonders on low-power electronic circuits and I use it for that.

This is a good one. I use it too. Key is NO RESIDUE.