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I don't know all the trim levels, but there are at least two Pro Power Onboard versions. The 2.4 kW version only has 120V receptacles all around and 2.4 is the rating that could be pulled by plugging extension cords into the various receptacles. The 9.6 kW version has all the same receptacles...

Myself as well. EJ Zone across the street

Do it anyway. Don't tell them. Keep it within the margins if you're concerned (less than 25% increase). Most utilities, including Muni's, don't have the desire or resources to audit any of this. Sure you're usage will go down, but that's explainable by energy efficiency increases if they...

I really want to think that emoji is a punch to the face. I know its not, but I want it to be.

250 miles at 75 MPH is 3.33 hours. at 70MPH is 3.57 hours. That's 0.24 hours, or 14 minutes. Ive spent more than that debating what tires I should put on my snowblower. Worth it? Open question.

Never will understand the obsession with optimizing range when people also claim to driving 75 on the interstate. Dropping to 70 will add more range than any of these other aesthetic tweaks

My sales guy bragged that I could use my ford point for oil changes, lube jobs, and air filters. Long way to go bub.

Spare tire now optional. NACS adapter included 1 year of Blue Cruise No more On Board Scale or tow Tech package Meh. I will still maintain the 2022 ER Lariat in either Rapid Red or Atlas Blue was the best configuration ever available.

That red line at zero percent SoC was a useful add. And remember, we're getting Blue Cruise 1.4 by the end of the year. "What year?" you may ask, which is the best part, they won't tell us! Super hard to justify spending $800/year on BlueCruise when they won't let anyone try the new features...

Thanks for your insight. I have a hard time believing that I'm the first to have this issue. Which is even more surprising that we're up to nearly 300 pages on this thread and seemingly no one has brought this up. I'd continue on this diatribe, but I'm tired. I drove two hours round trip...

Again, Would be real nice if the OP or someone, anyone, would update the tutorial. following all the steps just to grenade you battery in the driveway would be a great thing to avoid. Legit surprised that nobody has referenced this fact and the thousand plus pages that I've read on this form...

Welp, here i sit. praying my nuked 12V will accept a charge and looking for replacement batteries in my area. might have to jump the truck with my John Deere tractor. Boy wouldn't that be a site

Would be great if the tutorials, or anything, were update to reflect that. All Youtube videos and tutorials I've seen shows the 10A NOCO is acceptable/recommended. I didn't find anything in my searches that suggested an old school dumb charger would be required.

The sage continues to weekend #2. I got an new cable, returned the old, and watta you know, the new one works on the same laptop I was trying from before. Faulty cable I guess. Had all the proper branding and everything so I can't say it was fraud. Now to today. I activate the cable, sign...

Thanks. I emailed back-n-forth with OPUS customer support this morning. They first have me update to the latest Microsoft .NET framework. After that didn't work I confirmed with them the device fails to activate on two different laptops, after which they suggested returning the unit to Amazon...

Thanks for the support, however I'm in MA. Thus far I've been able to get FDRS to work and I can hammerfist my way through the login credential screens and get to the vehicle interface screen. Now my Mongoose cable isn't working. I think it's a driver issue but can't be sure. I run through...

EDIT. Nevermind. Still f'd up. Back to the original problem and my previous hack doesnt work anymore. On a similar note, has anyone had problems with the Mongoose cable? It won't activate through the OPUS tool, and it seems windows cant/wont download the appropriate drivers.

Damn, this software combo is janky AF. I basically just hammer-fisted my way though it. Changing passwords, unistall/reinstall, etc. No idea why it just worked, but i selected "Non Dealer/ETIS, purposefully entered the wrong credentials, got denied (expected), then selected the correct...

Thanks for the tip. Added them as shown in your screenshot, but it didn't help anything. In the FDRS interface, I select "Independent Operator/Non-Dealer", click Login. New screen is launched requesting my Ford.com credentials. Enter the credentials and I'm taken back to FDRS window which...

From the FDRS program, trying to login. All previous tutorials I've read indicate I should select "Non Dealer/MotorCraft" however thats not an option in the dropdown menu. I have the attached options. Selecting Independent Operator/Non Dealer and clicking Login opens a seperate window...