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Middle aged Canadian here. It's not an issue, I rarely get into a cold soaked truck. They sell touchscreen compatible gloves if need be. Best bet is to use preheat so you don't need gloves. The heated steering wheel is a cornerstone to winter driving for me now.

It's a lead acid 12v battery, it won't make a difference. Expensive, cheap, as long as it provides enough to get the system to power on.. Just make sure your jump pack is charged.

Looks cool! Can you still get 4 foot sheets in there?

Online media sucks. The article overuses the word "combustion" and the stats are clearly dredged from other sources without confirmation. Either the writer doesn't give a shit about journalistic quality or their lazy ass just used chat gpt to write it. Either way just more dog poop...

Your truck has a built in owners manual or you can download one from ford, which I highly recommend. Start with that and then if that fails come back with your troubleshooting. Is it just the one outlet or all? Is there any voltage? What are you plugging in? What does the screen say? Etc.

The first line of that Mach e post: "First, I'll mention there is no official procedure from Ford for battery calibration. However I think it helps to do this" Do whatever you feel is necessary but there isnt any manufacturer data to support the theory.

"completely pre-wired"? Looks like an electricians nightmare.

"simulated gear changes" 😂😂😂

Make sure your settings are saved to your profile. Your profile should be number 1. This is irrelevant but if you're really concerned then turn off the warning and back on again. Search forum how. Your key is too far away, try the other pocket or move your key closer to the midpoint of the...

I would try to find something close, load index should be the same.

I saved a tourist $50 in idle fees when his charge session ended and I unplugged it. I wouldn't ever leave my own truck blocking a dcfc though. Now the j1772 connector I'm happy can be removed in case I'm done and someone else needs the cord.

It does this all the time. Ignore the guess o meter. I charged to my usual 85% this morning and it showed a range of 410km, I do not ever get that and my driving yesterday was about 45kwh/100kms.

Almost every car ever produced has a near impossible to reach blend system that requires dismantling the entire dash and if it's an internal defect you have to replace the entire mixing assembly costing hundreds if not thousands of dollars. Here's to hoping the lightning isn't like that.

North America is abysmal when it comes to mass transit. It's getting better but we're decades behind. We are also very car centric. Myself, I have almost nothing to use except a city bus that is essentially useless for my daily life.

China is infamous for its holiday traffic, they have massive freeways.

It's rare for a 12v to just fail without warning. I assure you there were signs before failure. My battery is getting weak but I'm going to milk it until the spring. Once I decide to buy a new one I'll load test the old one for fun.

110v is level 1, 220v is level 2, dcfc is dcfc(aka level 3) The Ford mobile charger is both level 1 and level 2. The hard-wired evse is level 2 only.

Homelink should just disappear completely, forever. The Ford mobile evse is level 1 and 2, it can be deleted for a credit.

It's not the load, more the plug cycles. That's why commercial grade outlets are better and now they are being relabeled by the manufacturers for ev use. They haven't come up with an actual standard yet. A standard would be nice to clear up any confusion over what receptacle to use...

It's the Canadian branch of federal pacific.