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Pretty much every inverter ever produced will not back feed to the DC side. It's a basic protection to avoid very nasty consequences.

Bluecruise uses satellite data but acc shouldn't need connectivity. If your 12v is low and cold it won't connect either. If you plug in and charge you should get it back.

What does the ring of lights at your charge port show when you plug in to charge? Do you have charge windows set? Can you confirm that fordpass is connected to the truck?

Salt, ice, snow, dirt messes up the sensors. I just live with it and turn the sensors off when they alarm like that. When the alert screen pops up on the center display you can toggle them off.

Make sure your doors are all closed and then make sure there isn't anything blocking the sensors inside. Weird one for sure.

Probably still generating waste heat at those temps. I've been curios about the louvre behaviours and would like to see a live view of them while driving in various temps.

When you add a payload or tow a trailer it's more towards level. All trucks are designed this way. "leveling" trucks for aesthetics is a weird fad but it's incredibly popular. Same with wheel spacers.

There is a setting in the truck menu to give you an alert when your range gets low and it's in distance, not soc. You should always leave yourself a buffer as you never know what kind of detouring you might have to do on a drive. If you find yourself chewing through electrons too quickly...

Middle aged Canadian here. It's not an issue, I rarely get into a cold soaked truck. They sell touchscreen compatible gloves if need be. Best bet is to use preheat so you don't need gloves. The heated steering wheel is a cornerstone to winter driving for me now.

It's a lead acid 12v battery, it won't make a difference. Expensive, cheap, as long as it provides enough to get the system to power on.. Just make sure your jump pack is charged.

Looks cool! Can you still get 4 foot sheets in there?

Online media sucks. The article overuses the word "combustion" and the stats are clearly dredged from other sources without confirmation. Either the writer doesn't give a shit about journalistic quality or their lazy ass just used chat gpt to write it. Either way just more dog poop...

Your truck has a built in owners manual or you can download one from ford, which I highly recommend. Start with that and then if that fails come back with your troubleshooting. Is it just the one outlet or all? Is there any voltage? What are you plugging in? What does the screen say? Etc.

The first line of that Mach e post: "First, I'll mention there is no official procedure from Ford for battery calibration. However I think it helps to do this" Do whatever you feel is necessary but there isnt any manufacturer data to support the theory.

"completely pre-wired"? Looks like an electricians nightmare.

"simulated gear changes" 😂😂😂

Make sure your settings are saved to your profile. Your profile should be number 1. This is irrelevant but if you're really concerned then turn off the warning and back on again. Search forum how. Your key is too far away, try the other pocket or move your key closer to the midpoint of the...

I would try to find something close, load index should be the same.

I saved a tourist $50 in idle fees when his charge session ended and I unplugged it. I wouldn't ever leave my own truck blocking a dcfc though. Now the j1772 connector I'm happy can be removed in case I'm done and someone else needs the cord.

It does this all the time. Ignore the guess o meter. I charged to my usual 85% this morning and it showed a range of 410km, I do not ever get that and my driving yesterday was about 45kwh/100kms.