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Your conservative driving is giving you higher numbers. Windspeed also plays a big factor.

It is a consumable. A lot of brake reservoirs have them which is more important.

I don't think I've ever seen a vehicle with a coolant level indicator. Also, the expansion tank (reservoir) is supposed to be above MIN when cold and below MAX when hot. Pretty much the same as every other cooling system out there.

JIT Just In Time production is used for most manufacturers, they don't usually sit on large inventories. They probably had to wait to get more produced to cover the recall. No tinfoil required.

As long as you can get the premium warranty then go for it. My identical truck(including the colour) has 106k km's and I've used my warranty a couple times, it's in the shop right now for an aircon line, it's a weak spot for sure. Best damn truck I ever had.

No noticeable range hit with a tonneau cover. Full caps will reduce the range by a few percent. Just go with what best suits your lifestyle. I run nothing because I need the box.

There shouldn't be much doubt about it. The manufacturers found that more contamination and damage was being caused by the filter and fluid replacements that have now been found to be unnecessary. These transmissions are lasting 100s of thousands of miles and the added bonus of not needing...

First, ignore whatever it says for miles remaining. You can reset your driving history if you want to see bigger numbers there again. Your trip history shows your consumption. Now, for any perceived charging issues at home you need to get some actual quantifiable data. Look at the app while...

Dropouts usually happen when changing from carplay/AA to sync but never heard anything about 1pd.

Youd have to be close though, the pressure waves from a lightning bolt are orders of magnitude higher.

Bingpot!

I think my minimum is 20km/h. Try yours out see if it works.

That is failed. Probably clogged the pump or the sense circuit. Glad you got it changed.

Plug and charge is easy but using the providers app is cheapest.

https://www.f150lightningforum.com/forum/threads/anyone-have-experience-with-replacing-active-air-dam.19121/

I'd fix it properly. Have you got a quote yet? Can't be that bad.

LOL, this would work on some minor surface oxidation and not with corroded rotors. This applies to all vehicles and not just specific to ford. Once the rotors start to corrode, the pads lose contact area and the effective braking force is reduced. I'll be doing mine by the end of summer after...

Just bring it back in.

Yes, it has happened before. Once that I've seen on the forums.

They did. They had to consider people just leaving it on indefinitely and possibly being in a worse spot. The solution is pretty straightforward, you add a load to keep it going, as many have done already. Its also ridiculously inefficient to run a large inverter for such a low load. I have...