Search results

Dealer time.

Not securing the connection properly afterwards is a concern with home mechanics. There is also this: Note: Make sure the vehicle has been switched off and doors closed for at least five minutes before disconnecting the 12 volt battery

Step 1) check for proper connections and power going to the fcsp. Step 2) ring out board to find damaged component. Step 3) repair or replace. Yes, solid white means resetting and requires no intervention. Mine goes back to blue if I plug in. It also goes white after ending a session...

Call the dealer 70iles away and ask them to pull the codes. Maybe they know what they're doing. Your current dealer does not.

Most people don't have a clue what they're talking about. Ignore it and drive the truck.

Which modes are you using?

Steering wheel and hand. Also, if you're leaning towards the left side it's even worse. Not to mention there are sunglasses that make the cameras job harder too.

When I search my vin for recalls on Ford.com I get notified it's not available. What does yours say?

Check all your departure settings in the truck screen.

Yes, unsurprisingly, the threshold for getting a driver's license is pretty low. On person thought looking straight into the camera would help. The gist is, the camera needs a clear sight line to your face. How you achieve that shouldn't be difficult.

It's only an illuminator on that side. The system works fine as long as it can see you. A handful of people can't figure it out.

Even cheap LEDs have good colour now. Expensive LEDs will give you any colour you want, so much easier too.

Did you try emergency tow mode? Keep trying, it will go eventually. I would also try charging for a while, might get the 12v up

Well that's just nonsense. Probably shouldn't be driving around with a dog on your lap. Easiest thing to do is move your hand, next easiest thing is move the wheel down and/or away from you and your seat up. I'm almost 6'4" and had a similar issue at first. Now I never get the warning...

Charge port possibly.

1) its not bricked 2)if your 12v is dead then you can boost it or charge it to get it into neutral.

Oh, in that case, just change it all to work properly. It's a very small investment that is much cheaper than having a deadly accident. Suicide cords and manual switching without interlocks is recipe for disaster.

No, you would need a 50a breaker in your critical loads subpanel wired to a 14-50r. Your probably best off just to do like @El Duderino said and install one in the main panel. You won't need a 240v ev receptacle on generator power anyways.

If it's updating at the time it's possible but having the electrical drain could mean there was a problem before you disconnected the 12v. Poor connections can also cause voltage issues and fry modules. Hopefully your dealer can get you sorted.

You have 3 trip meters. What happened is your driving history and/or the trip meters reset. The numbers will fluctuate more with less miles on them. The "this trip" meter resets every power on and fluctuates a lot.