Thanks. That image in your response kind of smells like AI, which I do not trust as far as I can throw it, but it does make sense J3400 would include some provision for it.
The teardown of the Lectron unit I did force myself to watch did include a couple of resistors as well as the thermal...
I like A2Z but I'm skeptical of their claim that they can derate the charge. Unless their adapter includes active electronics doing MITM on the PLC communications, all their thermal switches can do is open the circuit on the signalling pins, stopping the charge entirely. I really don't see how...
The adapter is passive. It doesn't communicate with the truck. If your charge port was heating up enough to set a code, that is a little concerning. I wonder how hot the adapter was.
Everybody needs an OBD dongle + CarScanner or equivalent, to monitor
1) Max amps the charger says it can supply
2) Amps requested by the truck
3) Amps supplied
Then you can determine if it's the truck or the charger who limits the charge rate.
The truck has both an active air dam (lowers down at speed below the front bumper) and the active grill shutters. It's possible they reuse some terminology for both, but just to be clear, they are distinct features.
I don't see how the active air dam could cause any issues. In fact it used to...
I was just thinking about this on my last drive. You'd get the paper map from a gas station or AAA/CAA if you planned ahead. Look up addresses in the phone book. Look up street names in the index around the edge then you had to find the street in the grid square. In just a few decades, thanks to...
Seems odd. On my truck the default is 90%.
You can change it in Charge Settings in the truck. It's a one time change though. And watch out for congestion fees; if the Tesla station is busy and charges congestion fees, then stopping at 80% is what you want.
The battery doesn't hold miles. It holds kWh. Only the battery percentage matters.
The truck has no way of knowing if you're going to be towing a trailer at 90 MPH uphill with a head wind, or putt-putting around town. It is literally impossible to have an accurate measure of future range.
I definitely have 500 amp charging now. I can't say 100% for sure it was this update, but I don't recall getting any other PCM updates before this one.
My 12 volt badly needs replacing, but I was able to do this update with just a 2 amp trickle charger connected. The voltage did drop as low as 11.4-11.5 volts during the update. I had had the truck "on" for about 3 hours to hopefully charge the 12 volt a bit first, but it doesn't hold much now...
Yes, there is a buffer on both the bottom and top end to protect the battery. So 100% displayed is less than 100% actual, and 0% displayed is more than 0% actual. (Though we cannot use the buffer... if you hit 0% displayed, you're done driving lol)
So it is a mathematical certainty that the...
What if it's cold outside, and I want all the power I paid for?
Not having manual battery conditioning is an egregious omission in my (humble 😁) opinion.
General consensus is the Ford HIS solution was garbage anyway. It never worked reliably. Now that the truck is discontinued one might hope they would open up the interface to allow third parties to do it right, but that's probably a pipe dream for liability reasons.
If you have the 9.6 kW pro...
I like the resistive heat on my 23. It's fine in the cold - have to manually encourage it to direct enough air to keep the windows clear, but the heater can keep up. At least down to -30 C or so. Can't recall if I've driven in colder. Haven't experienced the heat pump to compare.
My thought...
There was one up here last year
https://vancouver.citynews.ca/2025/05/31/abbotsford-parking-lot-fire-reports-of-ev-exploding/
Edit: thread on it: https://www.f150lightningforum.com/forum/threads/lightning-caught-fire-in-canada.28204/
I never heard any follow up as to the cause.
70 kW is what I've seen when the battery pack is cold. In those temperatures maybe the pack cooled off in the hour of driving.
BUT it usually warms up during fast charging and the speed should ramp up. So it could have been a problem with the charger. Hard to say without an OBD dongle so you...