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Yep, brain fart, I was thinking the 30a 240 but those numbers dont work

Pretty sure that chart was just for the Ford mobile charger. Fwiw, a 2.8kw should be added as well since the charger will do it.

Yes Normal mode lets the battery get up over 100 degrees before cooling it, sport and tow both try to get the battery to the mid 80s. It will lower your efficiency however.

Yes, it fails right around the 3 yr mark.

The mobile charger is not reliable for long term use. Another brand may be. You might be able to get an outlet in your garage flipped to 240 without rewiring (maybe), if so then you can do say 12a at 240v, which will be quite a bit faster than your current setup. The truck sucks down about 300w...

Try cleaning your dc connector pins. They can get dirty and cause errors. Also, a few here have had to have the charge port wiring replaced

The nokians have been ok, but not great. Here is my review of the tires. Initial Review: Nokian Outpost nAT on Ford Lightning (Upgraded Size) Upgraded the factory, road-focused tires on my Ford Lightning to a much larger and more aggressive 295/70r18 (up from stock 265/70r18). This increased...

You will have to do the size comparison since I gave 18 inch wheels, but the 295s fit without tge leveling kit. Worth noting, the leveling kit will cause the front tirrs to break traction earlier under hard acceleration so you do lose even more acceleration with it

Quick update, I'll try and put a more detailed post together later. BLUF: Going from the stock tires to the 295/79r18s, plus a 2" leveling kit, resulted in right around a 10% drop in efficiency. I conducted a controlled 60 mile drive to test efficiency, 30 miles out, 30 back, 70mph and ending...

This here. Set your 65mph speed in abrp to something around 1.4-1.6 and plan the route. From thwre take a peak at the charging stops and see if they will be trailer friendly or not.

Looking at it now, that is for the upper portion of coilivers and would ultimately increase preload, or raise the vehicle.

Note, Ford does change how it treats the battery based upon the output rating of the charger. L1 does not really do anything for the battery, around 30 amps it does slightly warm the battery when charging, and for my 48 amps it brings it up to 60f every time when charging. I expect...

This isnt anything different than life before the notice. There is not widespread reports of failure to fast charge. I expect ford is just sending notice for something that "exists", even if its exceedingly rare.

This should be the one. It says its for the front but the lighting uses older f150 front struts in the rear so it should work in the rear. There was a thread here where someone used it but I can't find the thread. You can find it other places than this link but this gives the terms for a...

Fwiw, a bad module will often show up when charging to 100, and then almost immediately drop to around 87%. As said, the range display at 100% is wildly inaccurate. We have seen ford mess with the numbers it displays frequently. It used to be more pesimistic, then they updated it to be...

To be clear, your battery charges to 100% and STAYS at 100% until it slowly works down from there? You CANNOT go by what the mileage says on the dash at 100% charge. You cannot. That is in no way a measurement of the battery or the distance you can travel. When you had to charge on your...

The range value on the dash is nearly worthless. Has your state of charge changed? The best thing to do is to get quick with the mental math to determine your range. You can look at you soc, recent efficiency, and battery size, to determine how far you can go

I have the nokian nAT in a larger size, with a leveling kit, and after testing the loss was around 10%. I expect the xtm would be less of a hit in your case. The biggest thing I noticed however was a significant loss in acceleration when compared to an all season. The lugs of an AT just can't...

It would be inter3sting to track any HV contactor issues. I'm seeing a lot of 23s with the same error here.

There is a spring perch lowering kit for the rear only. It uses all your stock parts, it just changes the spring length. I believe the lowering amount is 2" in the rear only. If so it may be enough. The kit is around $150, plus install. You might need a camber kit to meet alignment