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Lots more stuff in a pack than just modules. With probably a few thousand dollars each in the case, high voltage contactors, cooling plates and tubing, bms module, etc (plus a battery module worth multiple thousands of dollars) replacing modules is still MUCH less money Ford is putting into...

I have never understood Fords logic in its charging setup. Dcfc defaults to 90%, but for the majority of drivers if your sitting there long enough for it to go over 90% its because you need the range. Meanwhile L2 charging, which seems like it would be the majority of how these trucks are...

The dcfc issue is strange, but as said use the slider in the screen to go to 100%

6.20, no issues (yet). Might be a 6.21 bug

These trucks get 12v power from a dc-dc converter that takes the 389v from the main battery and converts it into the 12v. If that fails will the steering eventually run the battery down? Yes. But so will every other 12v component in the truck, including all the computers, screens, coolant pump...

The difficult part isnt dropping the pack, that could be done with some dollies and a 2 post (or even jack stands). Set pack on something, lift truck off. The hard part is the module itself. That is pretty heavy in itself, is relatively fragile pouch cells, and is semi-glued to the housing...

Simple adjustment of the hinges is all you need. One 13mm wrench iirc

You should calculate what the mi/kwh is at 100% soc and 358 miles (well I did, its 2.73 mi/kwh). Then do the exact same driving and calculate it at 80% soc, it will be different. Point being, the ford algorithm lies, and it doesn't use last trip for 100% soc. I drive mine hard, have oversized...

Yep, brain fart, I was thinking the 30a 240 but those numbers dont work

Pretty sure that chart was just for the Ford mobile charger. Fwiw, a 2.8kw should be added as well since the charger will do it.

Yes Normal mode lets the battery get up over 100 degrees before cooling it, sport and tow both try to get the battery to the mid 80s. It will lower your efficiency however.

Yes, it fails right around the 3 yr mark.

The mobile charger is not reliable for long term use. Another brand may be. You might be able to get an outlet in your garage flipped to 240 without rewiring (maybe), if so then you can do say 12a at 240v, which will be quite a bit faster than your current setup. The truck sucks down about 300w...

Try cleaning your dc connector pins. They can get dirty and cause errors. Also, a few here have had to have the charge port wiring replaced

The nokians have been ok, but not great. Here is my review of the tires. Initial Review: Nokian Outpost nAT on Ford Lightning (Upgraded Size) Upgraded the factory, road-focused tires on my Ford Lightning to a much larger and more aggressive 295/70r18 (up from stock 265/70r18). This increased...

You will have to do the size comparison since I gave 18 inch wheels, but the 295s fit without tge leveling kit. Worth noting, the leveling kit will cause the front tirrs to break traction earlier under hard acceleration so you do lose even more acceleration with it

Quick update, I'll try and put a more detailed post together later. BLUF: Going from the stock tires to the 295/79r18s, plus a 2" leveling kit, resulted in right around a 10% drop in efficiency. I conducted a controlled 60 mile drive to test efficiency, 30 miles out, 30 back, 70mph and ending...

This here. Set your 65mph speed in abrp to something around 1.4-1.6 and plan the route. From thwre take a peak at the charging stops and see if they will be trailer friendly or not.

Looking at it now, that is for the upper portion of coilivers and would ultimately increase preload, or raise the vehicle.

Note, Ford does change how it treats the battery based upon the output rating of the charger. L1 does not really do anything for the battery, around 30 amps it does slightly warm the battery when charging, and for my 48 amps it brings it up to 60f every time when charging. I expect...