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BEVs do not have a break in period. Any break in listed in the manual is purely driver break in/left over from ICE manual (liability for lead foots who don’t understand Instant acceleration from any speed, some time is needed to adjust from ICE.) There are no rings to seat, no valve train...

Just washed them, no tire shine on them. It doesn’t brother me, a little tire shine from time to time and it’s gone, just curious.

Nitro Ridge Grappler 285/65R20 on factory Lariat Sport 20’s. No spacers. No rubbing, full lock (with 2” Readylift Level, but they should fit a stock suspension w/o rubbing as well) Tires measure out essentially to 34.9/11.5 (according to NITTOs tire specs)

It looks so good. No increased noise that I can notice other than the rare wind buffet if you're cresting a hill and there's a strong wind blowing underneath for a moment (think 30mph headwind gust). MPG loss around town seems to be about 0.2mpg so far (most of my roads are 55mph roaads so that...

Yep! And I would do it a third time too!

I think it would probably affect a truck that's not leveled more than a truck that is. But the bigger tires you'll probably put on it after you level it will affect it more. About to go down that rabbit hole myself.

Few more... Better lighting.

Daylight pics. I'm very satisfied.

Just went on a little evening road trip and spent about 80 miles on the highway averaging about 73mph and about 21mpg (everything is still breaking in with only 500mi on the truck) -- but the important thing. No new wind noise that I nor my wife could discern -- and no buffeting. So other than...

So. Marked with tape. Cut below the line with a jigsaw using a wood finish blade, then I sanded up to the tape line using a random orbital sander and 80 grit. Then finished off the edges with 220 grit and hand rounded the corners with a 220 block. I'll try to get some better pics tomorrow. But...

We meet again. New truck, new air dam... I'm going to take a slightly different approach this time. Learned from trimming other airdams, I'm going to retain about a 1.5" lip underneath using tape as a guide. Now I HAVENT TRIMMED IT YET, but I've marked it off and photoshopped what it will look...

It’s up to you. It will be fine either way but I agree it looks better trimmed. The difference in MPG and road noise is negligible. And you can always buy the piece again if you want to revert.

No once the motors are gone the only thing that happens is the computer energizes those connectors — but since the circuit is not closed (i.e. they are unplugged) nothing happens. It’s like unscrewing a lightbulb and then flipping the light switch.

I left the wiring harnesses in place, zip tied them into a secure position and i closed/sealed the connectors off with electrical tape. I also ordered a replacement air dam and kept everything around so I can quickly restore it to OEM in case i ever change my mind or sell the vehicle. And...

Yep. That part is quite easy to remove. Just remove the inner airdam from underneath the truck (it unbolts from the two motors). The motors then can come off and you can tape up the connectors (to protect them from moisture) and you're done.

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Air bag is not a problem at all. I just did the swap in my 2021 F-250:

Any XL/STX guys in here do the leather swap yet? I noticed the steering wheel lists for about $500 and change give or take but it's currently backordered. Was wondering if anyone managed to find one and swap out theirs yet? IMO it's the only thing the interior of the STX is missing.

They won't without some minor trimming of the mounting surface (mirror side) near the window's weather strip (see my earlier replies).

Look near the end of page 1 of this thread, I managed to fit one but you will have to trim a few areas of the plastic mounting surface around the window seal to make it work. But I think it can be done in a pinch.