I had a 79 CJ5 and it was one of the best vehicles I ever owned. I’ve driven several rental Chrysler/Jeeps post-Stellantis and my God it’s unbelievable how far they’ve fallen.
With a breaker interlock as you describe, you’ll never be able to charge….the only time the outlet breaker can be on is if the main is off.
In addition to what everybody else is telling you.
7.2 is the max used to power a house. 9.6 is the sum of the 7.2 powering the bed outlets and a separate 2.4 inverter (which is 120V only) that powers the cab and frunk outlets.
I think it’s a bit more complicated when it comes to EVs. I don’t believe Ford will reimburse the dealer for EV-specific warranty work unless it is performed by an EV-certified tech. The limited supply of certified techs creates bottlenecks and I guarantee you the dealer’s customers will get...
I’d do it if they knocked off the 5K dealer add-on BS.
If you based your range comment on the GOM, forget about it - it’s not real. The only way is to compare M/kwh.
My cooled seats are imperceptible. I can’t hear anything.
The sensor is in the charge port. The truck (or the charging station) has no clue what’s happening along that extension cord.
The normal throttling you observe is either part of the charge curve or battery thermal management. Under normal operation, throttling due to over temp at the charge...