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40amp or 48amp charging on a Charger Station Pro

F150LAQS

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If i want to charge at 40 or 48 amps, I still have to have this charger installed on 100 amp rated wire, correct? the manual appears to insist on 3awg wire, because it can go up to 80 amps. i'm just trying to compare cost. if i only wanted to charge at 40-48 amps, should i shop a grizzle-e or something like that?
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RickLightning

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If i want to charge at 40 or 48 amps, I still have to have this charger installed on 100 amp rated wire, correct? the manual appears to insist on 3awg wire, because it can go up to 80 amps. i'm just trying to compare cost. if i only wanted to charge at 40-48 amps, should i shop a grizzle-e or something like that?
The charger requires the specific copper wiring because of the capability. Some people have installed it on a smaller circuit and then labeled the charger as such so that a subsequent owner doesn't ramp it up. Ideally, if you used the proper wire for the 100amp circuit, you would use a 60amp breaker for the 48amp setup (hardwired), or a 50amp breaker for the 14-50 outlet on the 40amp setup. This way no one is going to ramp up to 80amps without popping the breaker.
 
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F150LAQS

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The charger requires the specific copper wiring because of the capability. Some people have installed it on a smaller circuit and then labeled the charger as such so that a subsequent owner doesn't ramp it up. Ideally, if you used the proper wire for the 100amp circuit, you would use a 60amp breaker for the 48amp setup (hardwired), or a 50amp breaker for the 14-50 outlet on the 40amp setup. This way no one is going to ramp up to 80amps without popping the breaker.
makes sense. is the
You can dial the FCSP down and use a lower amp circuit breaker with thinner wire. Be sure to use the lower amp breaker to eliminate potential for problems.
hmm. would a certified electrician do that, given whats in the manual? i haven't compared cost of 3awg copper vs 4 awg for 60 amps vs 6awg for 50 amps, might be worth a look.
 

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if i only wanted to charge at 40-48 amps, should i shop a grizzle-e or something like that?
No reason to if you already have FCSP. It's a big thing on the wall, but if you already have it and have room, it's 'free'. You would probably be able to sell it for about same as most quality Level 2 EVSE. Save he hassle wire it for 48A.
 

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if i only wanted to charge at 40-48 amps, should i shop a grizzle-e or something like that
Yes. If you don't intend to hook the Ford Charger station Pro to a 100 amp circuit then it would be cheaper to shop other Level 2 chargers. Especially if you do not already own the Ford Charger (and it is no longer included in the new 2024 models).

Also the Ford Charger has a Level 3 style handle and thicker cord that some folks find inconvenient. Nearly all other Level 2 chargers (EVSE) have a standard CCS handle with a thinner cord that is a bit easier to use.
 
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F150LAQS

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Yes. If you don't intend to hook the Ford Charger station Pro to a 100 amp circuit then it would be cheaper to shop other Level 2 chargers. Especially if you do not already own the Ford Charger (and it is no longer included in the new 2024 models).

Also the Ford Charger has a Level 3 style handle and thicker cord that some folks find inconvenient. Nearly all other Level 2 chargers (EVSE) have a standard CCS handle with a thinner cord that is a bit easier to use.
yea im buying a 23 so the fcsp comes with it.
 

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If you go with 100Amp then use service wire. Most 100 amp service wire has an "extra wire" but it's still less expensive because you don't need the conduit and it's eaiser to work with. With a bit of a "crush" you could probably could use the third 3 AWG as the ground and ignore the 5 AWG all together.

https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/3-3-3-5-copper-ser-service-entrance-cable
 
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sotek2345

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I have mine wired for 48A using the smaller wiring and a lower rated breaker. I rate the larger wire out to a sub-panel and from there have the FSCP running at 48A (60A breaker) and a Grizzl-e running at 32A (40A breaker). It was all done by a qualified electrician.

My original plan was to run the FSCP at 80A, but with my wife having an EV as well, having 2 slower chargers is much nicer than one fast one that we have to swap.
 

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srspring551

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When I received my FCSP, it appeared that the only way to change the charging amps was via the physical switch inside the FCSP (super inconvenient). However, I notice on the updated FordPass app, under bottom middle "Energy" tab >"Advanced" > "Charge Station" > "Settings" > "MAX CHARGE CURRENT" you can set it from 6A to 80A. Does anyone know if it really is limiting the output of the FCSP directly or if it is just instructing the truck to only allow that many amps? :unsure:
 

RickLightning

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When I received my FCSP, it appeared that the only way to change the charging amps was via the physical switch inside the FCSP (super inconvenient). However, I notice on the updated FordPass app, under bottom middle "Energy" tab >"Advanced" > "Charge Station" > "Settings" > "MAX CHARGE CURRENT" you can set it from 6A to 80A. Does anyone know if it really is limiting the output of the FCSP directly or if it is just instructing the truck to only allow that many amps? :unsure:
It is NOT instructing the truck. Charge Station is the charger.
 

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That is the great thing about the fcsp, the hardware setting allows it to be installed into almost any 240v panel with selectable current options so you can run smaller wire and breaker.

The software setting does not qualify to allow thinner wire, it's just for the user who wants the ability to change the current.
 

chl

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You can dial the FCSP down and use a lower amp circuit breaker with thinner wire. Be sure to use the lower amp breaker to eliminate potential for problems.
Yes, turn the dial on the circuit board to number 5 (48A) and use a 60A breaker (have to because it is considered a continuous load - on for 3 hours or more - per the code). Use the 80% rule - the max current should be 80% of the breaker, or the breaker should be 125% of the current - same number results.

If 50A or less [EDIT: max current is 50A so derated for continuous load is 40A setting on the EVSE] an EVSE, it can be plugged into a 14-50 (or 6-50) receptacle per the code, but if you do that get a heavy-duty receptacle - not a cheap one from Home Depot, there have been over-heating failures with cheap ones.

Label the EVSE and receptacle if you use one, for the max current, e.g., 40A. I don't recall if the NEC requires that but it is good practice.

You can use #6 AWG THHN or THWN wire for the 48A setting [EDIT HARD WIRED].

However, you might consider going with the max wiring and breaker for the future, in case you ever change your mind or get a different vehicle where faster charging would be beneficial.

The SR battery will limit the charge current to 48A max, you don't really need to dial down the FCSP in that case IF you used the #3 AWG wire and 100A breaker. The truck and the EVSE will not exceed the max charging current the truck can handle anyway.

I believe you only need to dial down in the FCSP if you use thinner wire (larger AWG number) and smaller breaker than the #3 AWG and 100A breaker. I guess that would be in the case where someone plugged an ER battery Lightning into the FCSP and tried to pull 80A. The FCSP doesn't know what wire or breaker you install so that dial limits the current to your wire and breaker capacity, I believe.

If you have the 100A breaker and the #3 AWG wire, there is no risk of overheating/fire due to drawing too much current.

The smaller breaker should prevent excessive current, but thinner wire could still be damaged before the breaker pops, and breakers have been known to fail. So dialing down to the level the wire can handle (with the 80% derating) is important in that case.
 
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chl

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All good advice, but max amperage for continuous rated devices like EVSE through 14-50R is 40A.
Yes, thanks, I edited it to clarify the max AMPs of the outlet is 50A but for a 40A EVSE setting because of continuous load derating.
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