Battery Degradation Calculations

[djwildstar]

Except you can't, due to temperature. Need mid 70s to see the truest data. CarScanner shows SOH% also.

True!

All of this (the initial charge, the drive, and the after-drive recharge) should be done at a constant temperature within the ideal operating range for a lithium-ion battery pack (roughly 60F to 100F depending on chemistry).

Just about any OBD2 reader can access the high-voltage battery state of health (HvbSoh) as reported by the battery energy control module (BECM). It is header 0x7e4, mode+pid 0x22490c. If you link ABRP to your vehicle via an OBD2-BLE dongle, it will also display this value.

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[chrisvitek1]

Aero drag is the biggest factor, unless you are towing. Try tucking in behind a semi on the highway to extend your range. I just did a 31 mile drive on the highway at 23 degrees and got 2.1M/Kw. Behavior is everything on this issue.

 

[ZSC100]

As Rick said: Battery degradation refers to the gradual decline in the ability of a battery to store and deliver energy. In other words this is the irreversible loss (health/life) in battery capacity and has nothing to do with what you are talking about.

A common misconception is that cold temperature uses or wastes energy, IT DOES NOT. Your truck wastes the energy trying to heat the cab and the battery to get better performance. Cold temps simply limit the speed at which you can put in or take out energy. It does not waste energy as a direct cause of temperature. I wish ford would've allowed us to select lower performance in cold weather at the expense of not wasting energy heating the battery. I don't need 100% power when it's 25deg outside, in fact 30% power is perfectly fine for everyday driving. If I'm heading to the racetrack, sure, heat up that battery, but let me decide.

 

[1Jetpilot]

I understand the battery degradation definition now. I wish we had a button too maybe an OTA, which I never get, is the answer to fix this problem

 

[chl]

Seems like an app like Leaf Spy Pro (for the Nissan Leaf) would be useful to really probe the depths of the Li battery.

"The Leaf Spy Pro application allows anyone with a Nissan Leaf electric vehicle, an iOS 7.1+ device and the LELink Bluetooth 4. x LE OBDII adapter (recommended) or a WiFi OBDII adapter the ability to monitor their battery and other vehicle information normally visible only to the dealer."

Is Leaf Spy Pro worth it?

Using this application its possible to gauge very accurately how many miles before low battery warning. Set the milles per kWh to match the LEAFs dashboard readout and you will know your range down to the 1/4 mile. Tire pressure readout is awesome. I've caught slow punctures well before they left me stranded.

---I sent an email to the developer of Leaf Spy Pro suggesting the make one for the Lightning.

 

[Jim Lewis]

Seems like an app like Leaf Spy Pro (for the Nissan Leaf) would be useful to really probe the depths of the Li battery.

With CarScanner Pro and the right OBDII adapter, you have access to most (if not all?) Lightning PIDs. In examining someone else CarScanner template, I noticed that you can set alerts in CarScanner to go off when the PIDs reach certain values. So, perhaps you could create a CarScanner template that would warn you when driving when you cross your preset thresholds. I'm new to this so perhaps I'm misinterpreting what I saw behind a template page value setting; check it out yourself. Perhaps the PIDs available to us don't go as deeply into battery status as you would like.

 

[chl]

Seems like an app like Leaf Spy Pro (for the Nissan Leaf) would be useful to really probe the depths of the Li battery.

"The Leaf Spy Pro application allows anyone with a Nissan Leaf electric vehicle, an iOS 7.1+ device and the LELink Bluetooth 4. x LE OBDII adapter (recommended) or a WiFi OBDII adapter the ability to monitor their battery and other vehicle information normally visible only to the dealer."

Is Leaf Spy Pro worth it?

Using this application its possible to gauge very accurately how many miles before low battery warning. Set the milles per kWh to match the LEAFs dashboard readout and you will know your range down to the 1/4 mile. Tire pressure readout is awesome. I've caught slow punctures well before they left me stranded.

---I sent an email to the developer of Leaf Spy Pro suggesting the make one for the Lightning.

His reply:

Not at this time.
Currently only the Leaf, Env-200 and Tesla’s S/X3/Y have apps
Next up is support for the Nissan Ariya.

Oh well.

 

[djwildstar]

I failed to enter a destination on the Ford Navigation. I strictly use Apple Car Play. Would this have made a difference?

YES:

• The guess-o-meter's distance-to-empty calculation ls relatively accurate if you have a destination programmed into Ford Navigation and drive at (or below) the posted speed limits for the route.
• If you do not have a destination programmed, the guess-o-meter's distance-to-empty is notoriously unreliable -- without a destination, it takes your recent (unspecified number of trips) driving history, combines them (using unknown weighting factors), and then adjusts for possible changes in (unspecified conditions) using (other unspecified) heuristics.

The only data I got was 119 miles added, 34.2 kWh energy added but that was only to 80%. DTE shows 238.

Without knowing the starting state of charge, we can't compute anything useful.

Accuracy of DTE

Accuracy of the guess-o-meter's distance-to-empty is not degradation. For EVs, "degradation" refers to permanent loss of battery capacity due to age or abuse. It is normally computed as a percentage of original capacity -- for example, an ER battery with 10% degradation would have a capacity of about 118 kWh at 100% state of charge, down approximately 13 kWh from the original specification of 131 kWh.

The guess-o-meter's "distance to empty" calculation is notoriously inaccurate when there is no destination programmed, because there are too many factors that can affect your truck's energy consumption. With no destination, the truck has no idea if you're going to be cruising down a gentle country road at 35 MPH or zooming along the Interstate at 90 MPH. The truck may get 3.0 mi/kWh in the former, and is lucky to get 1.5 mi/kWh in the latter. So all it can do is assume that your next drive is going to vaguely like your last few drives, and give you a number that may or may not be at all accurate for your actual next drive.

Apple Maps should integrate with your truck to give range estimates and recharging suggestions. If you prefer Apple Maps, use its range estimates and ignore the guess-o-meter.

 

[1Jetpilot]

I do prefer Apple Maps but can't get the EV stations to show due to lack of Power Up update 6.8 not being updated.

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