Range efficiency results: lighter aftermarket wheels + stock tires = more mi/kwh

I was curious how lighter wheels would affect range. I purchased the VenomRex 601 wheels and they weigh in at 28lbs each.

Breakdown:
Lariat wheels 41 lbs
Stock tires 33lbs
Stock combo 74 lbs

new wheels 28lbs
Stock tires 33lbs
New combo 61lbs

That’s a 13lb difference per corner.

Here is where it gets interesting. Around town I was seeing 2.3-2.8 mi/kwh on the factory wheels/tires and with the lighter aftermarket wheels set up I’m seeing 2.5-3.8 mi/kwh my driving habits have not changed. Steering is sharper and the return of the wheel to center is faster, snappier.

On the hwy I didn’t see much of a difference. I usually drive between 67-70 and I’m still seeing 2.2-2.3 mi/kwh.

Weight doesn’t seem to affect higher speed range, rather that’s where aero comes back into play. They also poke about an inch more than factory so that is a consideration as well.

Since new I pumped them up to 44lbs psi as well. Ride hasn’t suffered and I’m hoping wear is similar, but that’s another discussion.

TPMS does swap over. I’ve read people thinking they new ones, mine swapped over fine.

You’ll need new lugs though.

Mods include:
Bed cover
Amp steps
Tint
Wheels

Nice setup! Yeah the offset usually has more of an effect on range.

Loving those wheels! Mind providing a link? I like how you kept the stock tires.

7000 lbs. Let us know if you bust one.

Truck looks great! Surprising results on the efficiency. Did you have any issues with the AMP step install? I installed the smart series and got rubbing on the front driver side with the step motor. I haven’t seen others with this issue though. (See picture)

Crilly said:

7000 lbs. Let us know if you bust one.

Click to expand...

2600x4=10400

@jasonator those wheels, on that color Lightning look amazing. What an awesome look.

I'm betting you can hit 5 miles/ KWH

Somebody needs to start a contest!

I'd caution that you have no idea of the actual impact since you haven't done a controlled test. Clearly, reducing 52 pounds doesn't result in your efficiency going from 2.8 to 3.8, a 36% increase. Temp changes could account for the differences, and the highway shows you that it's not different, possibly. I'm not expert on sprung vs. unsprung weight, or rotational impact, but nobody is getting a 36% increase in efficiency by using lighter wheels.

RickLightning said:

I'd caution that you have no idea of the actual impact since you haven't done a controlled test. Clearly, reducing 52 pounds doesn't result in your efficiency going from 2.8 to 3.8, a 36% increase. Temp changes could account for the differences, and the highway shows you that it's not different, possibly. I'm not expert on sprung vs. unsprung weight, or rotational impact, but nobody is getting a 36% increase in efficiency by using lighter wheels.

Click to expand...

The lighter wheels should make a difference in the rolling resistance, which is where the efficiency gain should be from… I agree with you that it probably isn’t the sole reason OP saw an increase.

I had not been back to this thread in a while. I do love the “I’m not an engineer but I doubt” statements.

I clearly wrote I pumped them up to 46psi and plan on going to 48 now.

I also love people cannot do math. This thread was moved to the FB page and it got the same kind of ignorant statements, “drag wheels don’t belong on trucks”

These rims are designed for the F150 Raptor that weighs 6k pounds and for off-road use as well.

I don’t plan on off-roading my truck. But that doesn’t matter.

With lighter wheels and higher psi in town/around town in stop and go traffic I got as high as 3.8

I don’t care if you’re a scientist, engineer, or third grade math teacher. That’s the result. I live in FL and the weather has been consistently in the 70’s except for a few freezing mornings, which didn’t count.

Admittedly at higher speeds, I lost a tiny bit. Either the poke or the design and losing aero. I plan on getting those brake dust covers to see if that has an affect. I don’t like the look of the silver brake caliper and rotor behind the wheeel.

As for the amp steps. They are the dual motor ones. I had to relocate the ABS module by drilling a new hole in the frame and also grind away a useless metal tab as well as push and zip tie the large HV line up about 1/4” to clear. Everything else was plug and play.

I will say Amp sucks in re to customer service. If I had it to do again, I would not buy thier product.

After seeing what can be done, I pulled the trigger and bought the steps. At the wire box, I tapped the incorrect wire, green with a blue stripe was a difficult find and I mistook it for green with purple. I called Amp to get some help and the self proclaimed “Lead Tech” said “It does NOT work, we have a Lightning in the shop right now and it ABSOLUTELY DOES NOT WORK” and he was kind of a prick when he said it.

Well that’s a lie. Another forum member here pointed me to my folly and lo and behold! Viola! I was sure to post a video on thier FB page calling them out. Anyway. Amp sucks. But…..if you do want them, get ahold of Realtruck and they will give you a nice discount.

Wheels are VenomRex 601’s

What else? Thank you all!!

https://allev.info/2020/03/does-wheel-weight-matter/

My original post was wrong. The rolling resistance, I think, is still the answer but it would because of the higher tire pressure lowering the rolling resistance, not the rim change.

"Massive moving target" is kind of a gross overstatement, especially when OP said same driving route and weather. I usually see maybe +3psi from cold to hot and that difference would probably be consistent with OPs +8psi pressure over stock (ie stock 36 psi cold temps to 38-39 psi driving temp becomes 44 psi cold to 46-47 psi driving)