Report from using 7.2kw ProPower generator at campsite without shore power

[Vallee]

For the first time I used my generator, I plugged my friend rv with a adapter in the 230v plug to get the 30 amp. It ran for about 3 hour with no problem. Max watts was 1700, 35 celcuis or 95 F, it’s hot with no wind. I unplugged and left, but I have a stranger noise for under the truck. Like a gear or belt driving something, I think it might be the generator belt is still in gauged. Please help, I will see tomorrow if it still make the same noise after cooling down. And on Monday I will call my dealer.

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[Jack in Prescott]

Kelly, I think you're hearing the fan that cools the inverter while it's generating AC power. I happened to be at my trailer today - at a storage lot in the boonies - getting it ready for a run up to Montana. The check list included 'run A/C' so I plugged my Lariat into the trailer and - voila! - instant cold air. And yes, I could hear a cooling fan run under the truck. BTW there is no 'generator' in the ProPower system, even tho' the term is used frequently. High voltage DC from the battery is inverted (by the inverter, natch) to 120V AC power

Jack

 

[LixVjj]

2 weeks and 1500 miles into my PowerBoost 7.2kw, I haven't used the generator but I have embarrassed a Lexus coupe and a Hemi Charger! Brahaha! Just wish I could get 12.9 in the 1/4 mile to own Mustang GT's

 

[AutonomousHybridF150]

the reason it is shutting off easier than a 30 amp breaker trios, is because all breakers have a trip curve vs time.

A 30 amp breaker can run 40 amps for a few seconds without tripping, since heat has to be generated to trip it. The spike in power draw on start up doesn’t affect a regular breaker.

However, the pro power system detects over power at 30 amps, and Doesn’t have the ability to force feed 10 extra amps when something kicks on, while it’s close to 3600 watts.

 

[tmdaley]

the reason it is shutting off easier than a 30 amp breaker trios, is because all breakers have a trip curve vs time.

A 30 amp breaker can run 40 amps for a few seconds without tripping, since heat has to be generated to trip it. The spike in power draw on start up doesn’t affect a regular breaker.

However, the pro power system detects over power at 30 amps, and Doesn’t have the ability to force feed 10 extra amps when something kicks on, while it’s close to 3600 watts.

 

[tmdaley]

Thanks to autononmous for the July post regarding the over power detection. Do you know for sure that the system will not rip at lower amps? Because I'm pretty certain I was only drawing 20 amps or less from my small trailer (no A/C or microwave running). I agree the powerboost system is likely to be a software reset which is fairly instantaneous and unlikely to ever go over 30 amp per circuit.

After a 3 camping tips I find that there is an initial trip or two, and after reset I can run the same loads. I wonder if the software is varying the power trip/reset level?

 

[Jack in Prescott]

Here’s one “operational detail” I overlooked when boondocking several days ago. Plugged the trailer into the truck, blanked the center display, turned off the A/C and ratcheted the fan down to ‘1’. Nothing else was left on, so good to go, right? Seemed to me the engine ran more than our low power draw warranted that night. Early the next morning, which was in the 40’s, I open the truck door and - Voila! - the mystery is revealed: It was like Miami inside as the temp was set to 70. And I’m not really sure how to totally avoid this, as the temp setting only goes down to “Low” and *relatively* warm air kept being generated by the ventilation system.

Someone else commented that, if you keep the trailer coupled to the truck for the night, the torque from the engine starting each time would ripple thru the coupling and make itself known inside the trailer. Hardly noticeable - if at all - we found. Not a bother.

“Powerboost RV’ing” is a game changer in our minds.

Jack

 

[travelers too]

Here’s one “operational detail” I overlooked when boondocking several days ago. Plugged the trailer into the truck, blanked the center display, turned off the A/C and ratcheted the fan down to ‘1’. Nothing else was left on, so good to go, right? Seemed to me the engine ran more than our low power draw warranted that night. Early the next morning, which was in the 40’s, I open the truck door and - Voila! - the mystery is revealed: It was like Miami inside as the temp was set to 70. And I’m not really sure how to totally avoid this, as the temp setting only goes down to “Low” and *relatively* warm air kept being generated by the ventilation system.

Someone else commented that, if you keep the trailer coupled to the truck for the night, the torque from the engine starting each time would ripple thru the coupling and make itself known inside the trailer. Hardly noticeable - if at all - we found. Not a bother.

“Powerboost RV’ing” is a game changer in our minds.

Jack

Thanks for the update. Will the climate/ventilation system not turn off by pressing the on/off button at the temperature control?

 

[Jack in Prescott]

Well, don’t I feel like an idiot, Robert. Looked for that option on the panel but never thought to treat the temp control button as a push-in button. Thanks for that!

 

[travelers too]

Well, don’t I feel like an idiot, Robert. Looked for that option on the panel but never thought to treat the temp control button as a push-in button. Thanks for that!

No, No, I’m learning just like you!

 

[AdmsEve]

Just like everyone I'm still trying to figure out how the 7.2 KW system works. I just got back from a couple weeks fishing in northern Ontario (down to 6C at night) where I did a bunch of testing and thought I had pretty much figured out that for smaller loads anyway (1500 watts and less) the power comes from the battery and the engine will start and stop to keep the batteries charged. After a bunch of days of testing running an electric heater in the trailer and having the truck run for about 2 min every 15 min I decided to let it run overnight. When I woke up in the morning the truck was running full time even though the heater was actually off. So do I have something wrong or is there some functionality I'm overlooking that caused it to run the engine full time?? Just for fun the first thing I did when I went out to the truck was unplug the cord to the trailer....truck stayed running...thoughts? did the cold keep it running? yes the heater and display in the truck were off lol as were the rain sensing wipers as that was another lesson for me.

 

[ColoradoHunter]

I've been powering two campers for the last three weeks while out hunting. Powering a/c in both and even run my microwave at the same time with no issues. I just wish the lifetime MPG wouldn't count the ProPower time into it's calculations.

 

[Whiskey]

Terry, I didn't realize one's physical presence is needed - at the truck - to turn ProPower on. Yes, disappointing. Especially for someone with the 2.0KW ProPower (non-Powerboost) option. I wouldn't mind leaving Powerboost's ProPower system energized overnight. E.g. I was boondocking at the Grand Canyon a few days ago, overnight temp dropped to 25F, and so the furnace was my friend all night long. A Powerboost model would rarely need to cycle the engine to simply float the trailer's house battery bank. But for the 2.0KW folks, the engine has to run every time and for the length of the ProPower circuit's use, a big compromise.

Did you determine if you can shut down ProPower use, when it's energized, by doing the remote engine shut down sequence? At least, that would be something.

Pajamas? That creates a certain mental image of roughing it...

Jack

I sent that very thought into Ford.ideas and it got rejected, please everyone make the same suggestion so we can start the generator from the Ford app.

 

[Warclok]

Thanks for sharing your experience. I am still confused and wanted to discuss my simple situation. I have a power boost with 7.2. I have the correct Amazon 30 amp adapter etc. I have a toy hauler with dual ACs, both 13500 btu etc. Now, I connected the camper to the 30 amp connection in the bed, ran one AC and I was fine. I looked at the screen and it showed circuit B was being used. Now, when I tried to power on the 2nd AC, the power tripped. It was trying to continue to use circuit B, which went over 3600 watts. Now, circuit A was untouched.

How do I distribute both circuit A and B via the 30 amp connection in the bed?

is that even an option, or I can only use 3600 watts on the 30 amp plug and not the entire 7200 watts?

Hopefully my question makes sense!!

 

[Warclok]

Thanks for sharing your experience. I am still confused and wanted to discuss my simple situation. I have a power boost with 7.2. I have the correct Amazon 30 amp adapter etc. I have a toy hauler with dual ACs, both 13500 btu etc. Now, I connected the camper to the 30 amp connection in the bed, ran one AC and I was fine. I looked at the screen and it showed circuit B was being used. Now, when I tried to power on the 2nd AC, the power tripped. It was trying to continue to use circuit B, which went over 3600 watts. Now, circuit A was untouched.

How do I distribute both circuit A and B via the 30 amp connection in the bed?

is that even an option, or I can only use 3600 watts on the 30 amp plug and not the entire 7200 watts?

Hopefully my question makes sense!!

Ok, I did some more research, and think I answered my own question. I ordered one of these 30 to 50 amp dog bones. I think that’s what I need to run both AC units off the trucks 30 amp bed connection

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