Blue Spruce
Well-known member
Not the case, at least for US trucks but maybe in Canada it forces 20’s? I had a max tow on order with the 18’s. Was taking too long so I bought a similar truck from dealer stock with the 20’s.
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cghall77
Well-known member
- First Name
- Chris
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Interesting, I did try a few different dealers and we couldn't get around the 20s. Maybe it also has something to do with the rest of the build or you could be right, could be just a Canadian thing. ? Dealers told me the 20s were tied to the max tow but could be wrong.
XLT, 3.5 eco, Supercrew, 4x4, 5 1/2 box, Agate Black, 302a, XTR (chrome pkg), 360 camera, max trailer tow, tow mirrors, tailgate step, power adjustable pedals, B&O sound, Co-pilot assist 2.0, 2kw pro power.
Blue Spruce
Well-known member
The build and price forces the 20’s depending on the order of options selected but then it can be changed back to 18’s. At least on the sport option I could Change it back. But, you have XTR which isn’t a US option. My guess, it’s a Canadian thing.
Pedaldude
Well-known member
There’s arguments for both sides and it all comes down to the specifications of the wheels and tires. If you stick with the OEM wheels and correctly rated name brand tires at the recommended inflation pressures, it’s all good.
As stated above, the difference between the stock 18” and 20” is minimal and I doubt that under normal driving conditions that anyone would be able to tell the difference between two trucks identical other than the wheels fitted.
Now, if you keep the same tire diameter but changed the wheel size to where the sidewall is non existent, the difference is night and day. The conditions of most roads these days really favors more sidewall but when the difference is only 10-20% and it’s on a light truck with decent suspension travel and a solid rear axle, it’s a toss up.
One thing is certain, stay away from no-name and replica aftermarket wheels and try to stick with the OEM equipment. I have seen hundreds of cars that have been in minor collisions, jumped curbs or just simply have been driven normally and the stock wheels are most definitely stronger and less likely to have defects or failure during extreme use. Same thing for tires, I used to install tires on a machine and sometimes the no-name brands aren’t even round or they take way more weight to balance than they ought to. Not to mention the greater likelihood of defects down the road.
For what it’s worth the HDPP option only comes with forged 18” alloy wheels and the only physical limitations of the Max Tow option is that 17”s won’t fit over the larger diameter brake discs on the rear axle.
As stated above, the difference between the stock 18” and 20” is minimal and I doubt that under normal driving conditions that anyone would be able to tell the difference between two trucks identical other than the wheels fitted.
Now, if you keep the same tire diameter but changed the wheel size to where the sidewall is non existent, the difference is night and day. The conditions of most roads these days really favors more sidewall but when the difference is only 10-20% and it’s on a light truck with decent suspension travel and a solid rear axle, it’s a toss up.
One thing is certain, stay away from no-name and replica aftermarket wheels and try to stick with the OEM equipment. I have seen hundreds of cars that have been in minor collisions, jumped curbs or just simply have been driven normally and the stock wheels are most definitely stronger and less likely to have defects or failure during extreme use. Same thing for tires, I used to install tires on a machine and sometimes the no-name brands aren’t even round or they take way more weight to balance than they ought to. Not to mention the greater likelihood of defects down the road.
For what it’s worth the HDPP option only comes with forged 18” alloy wheels and the only physical limitations of the Max Tow option is that 17”s won’t fit over the larger diameter brake discs on the rear axle.
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