M4X
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #1
Hey guys. First post here. I've seen a few threads discussing the possibility of removing the electronic air dam on these trucks.
I plan on switching out to the Tremor skid plate as soon as it's available, and do not care for the extra mpg and noise quieting the airdam affords, so I decided to take a crack at removing it this evening.
Removal of the electronic portion of the airdam was relatively straight forward. Just six hex screws (3 per side on the motors) on the airdam itself, and then eight torx bolts (4 per side) holding the motors themselves on. I found that the upper bolts nearest the edges of the truck were easier to get at if you take a few lower bolts out of the fender liner so you can scoot it over a bit and reach in.
Now the real fun begins. You have three options at this point for the outer "fixed" airdam.
1. Leave it alone.
2. Remove it to trim it.
3. Trim it on the truck.
I chose #2.
I would not recommend it.
To remove the fixed airdam you have to remove roughly 16-18 nuts.
* Three underneath each foglight.
* Two on each corner.
* About 6 or so in the center behind the license plate bracket area.
In addition to these screws there are 3 plastic retainers (the squeeze and pull kind). 1 in the middle, and 1 on each end.
So with the valance completely removed you'll see the towhook rubber filler panels are exposed (the bracket on the left is my foglight hanging). Other than that there isn't any junk hanging below the bumper so you could theoretically stop here.
I decided; however, that it would probably look cleaner if part of the airdam was reinstalled. So out came a razer blade (was late, didn't want to wake the neighbors with powertools) and sandpaper.
Then finally after cleaning that up I put it back on the truck.
One thing of note, I noticed without the airdam the plastic that passes under the towhook is a bit flimsy. It will probably be fine, but I decided to put a few zip ties on it for good measure. You probably WONT need to do this, but you'll understand why I did once you trim yours.
I recommend trimming it ON THE TRUCK if you wish to go that route. Will turn a four hour job into about 10 minutes. Hindsight.
The Tremor Skidplate will cover the entire towhook area, and I believe it will use a different lower valance altogether as well. Looks like just end pieces.
So this will do for now on my truck for the extra clearance.
I'll post some pictures in the daylight later today.
I plan on switching out to the Tremor skid plate as soon as it's available, and do not care for the extra mpg and noise quieting the airdam affords, so I decided to take a crack at removing it this evening.
Removal of the electronic portion of the airdam was relatively straight forward. Just six hex screws (3 per side on the motors) on the airdam itself, and then eight torx bolts (4 per side) holding the motors themselves on. I found that the upper bolts nearest the edges of the truck were easier to get at if you take a few lower bolts out of the fender liner so you can scoot it over a bit and reach in.
Now the real fun begins. You have three options at this point for the outer "fixed" airdam.
1. Leave it alone.
2. Remove it to trim it.
3. Trim it on the truck.
I chose #2.
I would not recommend it.
To remove the fixed airdam you have to remove roughly 16-18 nuts.
* Three underneath each foglight.
* Two on each corner.
* About 6 or so in the center behind the license plate bracket area.
In addition to these screws there are 3 plastic retainers (the squeeze and pull kind). 1 in the middle, and 1 on each end.
So with the valance completely removed you'll see the towhook rubber filler panels are exposed (the bracket on the left is my foglight hanging). Other than that there isn't any junk hanging below the bumper so you could theoretically stop here.
I decided; however, that it would probably look cleaner if part of the airdam was reinstalled. So out came a razer blade (was late, didn't want to wake the neighbors with powertools) and sandpaper.
Then finally after cleaning that up I put it back on the truck.
One thing of note, I noticed without the airdam the plastic that passes under the towhook is a bit flimsy. It will probably be fine, but I decided to put a few zip ties on it for good measure. You probably WONT need to do this, but you'll understand why I did once you trim yours.
I recommend trimming it ON THE TRUCK if you wish to go that route. Will turn a four hour job into about 10 minutes. Hindsight.
The Tremor Skidplate will cover the entire towhook area, and I believe it will use a different lower valance altogether as well. Looks like just end pieces.
So this will do for now on my truck for the extra clearance.
I'll post some pictures in the daylight later today.
