Ceramic Coating - Price and Details Thread

[Skier167]

I did it myself, as I've done on two other cars. Since it was new, I didn't have to correct the whole truck, just a few spots, including the black b-pillars on both sides. I use gTechniq CSL and Exov4 as follows: Wash > limited correction > clay > chemical surface prep > one coat CSL > two coats of Exo. My other cars are past year three with the same treatment, one parked outside, and still bead extremely well. I'm very happy with the gTechniq products. They go on great, and look good, and last well. The total cost was about $150 plus about 6 hours of work.

I am a huge fan of gtechniq csl and exo as well! Going on my 3rd year with it on my 16 and will be doing the same to my 21 if and when it gets delivered. I also use their glass coating products and they are great as well

 

[Madman]

I avoid ceramic coating on black and dark colors. The reason is that those colors require more frequent correction, and you can't do it with ceramic unless you buff and recoat the entire panel every time. I use a good sealer, like Zaino's, on a dark color.

Based on your comments and the gorgeous photos of your Smoked Quartz truck, its clear that you know your stuff. Are you a professional Detailer? Given how perfect it looks, and that it took you only 6 hours to prep/correct/apply the Ceramic Coating, leads me to conclude you are. (Either that, or you missed your calling!)

(I am planning to apply CarPro's CQuartz 3.0 + Gliss 2 to my SQ F-150 myself, if it ever arrives. )

A few Questions:
Q1: Did you have any paint correction on your SQ F-150 or did you only need to polish minor swirls from the factory?
Q2: What product did you use on the glass? Did you polish first?
Q3: What did you use to protect the exterior black plastic surfaces?

I appreciate your opinions and insights!

 

[Lippy]

Based on your comments and the gorgeous photos of your Smoked Quartz truck, its clear that you know your stuff. Are you a professional Detailer? Given how perfect it looks, and that it took you only 6 hours to prep/correct/apply the Ceramic Coating, leads me to conclude you are. (Either that, or you missed your calling!)

(I am planning to apply CarPro's CQuartz 3.0 + Gliss 2 to my SQ F-150 myself, if it ever arrives. )

A few Questions:
Q1: Did you have any paint correction on your SQ F-150 or did you only need to polish minor swirls from the factory?
Q2: What product did you use on the glass? Did you polish first?
Q3: What did you use to protect the exterior black plastic surfaces?

I appreciate your opinions and insights!

I only needed to do minor correction plus the black B pillars.

For the glass, I’ve tried the gTechniq products but they didn’t work any better than RainX and they don’t last as long .So I just cleaned the glass with diluted isopropyl alcohol and applied RainX

I didn’t need to protect the black plastic surfaces while applying the ceramic. But I do use Griot’s plastic and trim conditioner from time to time.

 

[Madman]

I only needed to do minor correction plus the black B pillars.

For the glass, I’ve tried the gTechniq products but they didn’t work any better than RainX and they don’t last as long .So I just cleaned the glass with diluted isopropyl alcohol and applied RainX

I didn’t need to protect the black plastic surfaces while applying the ceramic. But I do use Griot’s plastic and trim conditioner from time to time.

All good stuff. Thank you for your opinions!

 

[Larry Arizona]

Factory fresh paint should be corrected before you do any ceramic coating or any wax or sealant treatment.

My Agate Black was built in KC on 4/16, it was delivered to dealer on 5/3 and I took delivery same day it came off carrier.

The paint was a mess, already etched from either acid rain, rail dust or fallout from the KC assembly plant while it sat in parking lot awaiting transport.

I have ceramic coated many vehicles and several were showroom new and all needed paint correction.

 

[Heavishot]

I’m planning on doing Optimum Gloss Coat on mine when it gets here. That’s what I put on my current truck and over 2 years later it’s still beads. I’ve also had good luck with aquapel. Seems to work about as well as Rain-X but lasts 6-8 months.

 

[Madman]

C

Can you expand on "paint correction"?

Are talking about "buffing it out" or taking it to a paint shop for more extensive repairs?

@Larry Arizona -

To @UNIKRN150 ‘s point, DS you mean leveling (polishing) or paint correction (with compound or a 2-in-1)? I assume you meant either or both but only as-needed.

And, since black is typically the softest paint, I assume there’s a higher probability of needing paint correction. is that right?

appreciate any insights. Thank you!

 

[Larry Arizona]

C

Can you expand on "paint correction"?

Are talking about "buffing it out" or taking it to a paint shop for more extensive repairs?

I did it myself with a DA polisher, rupes yellow pad and rupes DA-fine polish.

It did not require a two step compound.

 

[Larry Arizona]

Very nice!

I saw a Black gen14 parked next to an Anti-Blue on a dealer's lot and at certain angles the Anti-Blue almost looks black but when the light hits it, that blue really pops out at you.

I didn't look close enough to notice any imperfections but I have a feeling that if there are any, they will pop right out along with that blue.

I'm definitely going to be doing the ceramic coating but thanks to your post, I'll be looking very closely for any issues and correcting them first.

Thanks for the tips!

The way to see paint etching, rail dust and fallout is when you wash your truck , as you dry it, you can see vertical streaks where metal stains have left residue.

it’s hard to capture with a picture. When the paint is dry it’s not as noticeable.

I will say I found more dirt nibs in the paint than I had hoped, KCAP needs to improve their paint shop dirt management. I did wet sand and correct a few, but one of them is to big to correct.

Also want to clarify, black paint is not softer than other colors, All colors have the same clear coat on top of the color, so what you are polishing/correcting is the clear coat. Clear coat is just a paint layer without pigment in it.

 

[Larry Arizona]

I used clay bars years ago, they do work great for pulling contamination but don’t add any additional shine. NanoScrub mitts have replaced clay, much easier to use and reuse able appx 50x.

DA polishing in my personal opinion as providing maximum gloss prior to applying ceramic coating.

 

[Larry Arizona]

Finally found time to ceramic coat my truck today. Feynlab lite is so easy and so nice, $40. DIY FTW.

 

[LocStar320]

I’ve decided to go with Ethos graphene. I plan on doing the whole truck but, before I do the windshield, is there any extra upkeep for a ceramic/graphene coated windshield? I’d expect having to recoat more often due to the wipers. If so, roughly how often should I cover it with graphene or should I just stick with Rain-X? TIA

 

[DSB1995]

Two questions:

1. How old should your truck be before having it coated? Mine was built June 21 and I already have it, so the paint is only 11 days old.
2. Which should I do first.....ceramic coating or tailgate wrap letters? Does it matter?

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