Factory B&O Bass Roll-Off Solution

[SoundsGoodStereo]

I'm sure everyone knows of this problem and everyone is fighting to fix it. We have been using this method for a long time, but just now had time to add it to our website so you can purchase it easily. It's the same setup that we use on our packages and is the proper way to fix the bass roll-off.

Here is a copy/paste that I just wrote for our website that explains more. Any questions, please let me know

Option- Fix Factory Bass Roll-Off:
We have tested thoroughly just about every integration option on these trucks and while some can try to prevent the bass roll-off, they are simply a band-aid that does not work very well. Most are just a bass boost on the bottom end, but this boost exists when the roll-off is not happening, so you will constantly fight the remote subwoofer level/bass knob to "tame" the new subwoofer system.

Our approach is very different than most, but it is backed by testing along with a few key patents that make this happen. Instead of utilizing the factory subwoofer connection, we utilize a pair of interior speakers. Now these speakers do not have much subwoofer bass going to them, but it's just enough for the Kicker KeyLOC integration module to restore it properly. So why did we choose the Kicker KeyLOC? Well, it's the only integration module that can fix the All-Pass Filters on the interior speakers. Since we need both the left speaker and the right speaker to create the signal, we need to combine them to create one. As you might know, the left speaker has a totally different tune than the right. So a simple "Line Output Converter" is not the correct device for this vehicle, the KeyLOC is the only one in our industry that can do this properly...remember the patents I mentioned??

This option includes a custom-made harness by our team and is pre-programmed at our facility to match your truck's factory stereo system. Just connect the power/ground, remote turn-on, and the included RCAs from the custom harness to your amplifier. Then you now have the professional way to fix the bass roll-off and have the signal you need for a great subwoofer system.


Option- Keep Factory Bass Roll-Off:
As you might have already experienced, the factory B&O systems will roll back the bass over volume 14 and it will come in and out depending on the song. This roll-off exists to protect the factory subwoofer from damage, but for most users, it creates an unpleasant listening experience. This harness uses the factory subwoofer connection, so the roll-off will still exist at volumes over the 14 mark, but if you are a lower volume level listener or just want more bass in a cost-effective manner, this harness is for you. This harness connects at the subwoofer, not the green plug on the enclosure. Simply remove the subwoofer from the enclosure and our harness plugs right in. No need to splice wires to upgrade the subwoofer system in your vehicle.

For the High-Level and low-level options. You will need to see if your amplifier accepts speaker-level/high-level inputs and how. For example, here are several popular amplifiers and if they accept High-Level inputs:

Arc Audio High-Level = RCA
Mosconi High Level = RCA
Kicker = RCA
New Alpine High Level = RCA
Older Alpine High Level = Speaker Wire
JL Audio High-Level = RCA
Audiocontrol High-Level = Speaker Wire
New Rockford High-Level = RCA
Old Rockford High-Level = Speaker Wire
Skar Audio RP Series High-Level = Does not have it, you cannot use soldered RCA from your ACM. You must convert this with a LOC or Kicker KeyLOC, etc.
Sundown Salt Series High-Level = Does not have it, you cannot use soldered RCA from your ACM. You must convert this with a LOC or Kicker KeyLOC, etc.
DD Audio M Series High-Level = Does not have it, you cannot use soldered RCA from your ACM. You must convert this with a LOC or Kicker KeyLOC, etc.
Rockville = High-Level = Does not have it, you cannot use soldered RCA from your ACM. You must convert this with a LOC or Kicker KeyLOC, etc.
etc....

Any questions, please let us know and we can guide you in the right direction.

Photo of the Roll-Off Fix Solution:

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[Lytning]

I'm sure everyone knows of this problem and everyone is fighting to fix it. We have been using this method for a long time, but just now had time to add it to our website so you can purchase it easily. It's the same setup that we use on our packages and is the proper way to fix the bass roll-off.

Here is a copy/paste that I just wrote for our website that explains more. Any questions, please let me know

Option- Fix Factory Bass Roll-Off:
We have tested thoroughly just about every integration option on these trucks and while some can try to prevent the bass roll-off, they are simply a band-aid that does not work very well. Most are just a bass boost on the bottom end, but this boost exists when the roll-off is not happening, so you will constantly fight the remote subwoofer level/bass knob to "tame" the new subwoofer system.

Our approach is very different than most, but it is backed by testing along with a few key patents that make this happen. Instead of utilizing the factory subwoofer connection, we utilize a pair of interior speakers. Now these speakers do not have much subwoofer bass going to them, but it's just enough for the Kicker KeyLOC integration module to restore it properly. So why did we choose the Kicker KeyLOC? Well, it's the only integration module that can fix the All-Pass Filters on the interior speakers. Since we need both the left speaker and the right speaker to create the signal, we need to combine them to create one. As you might know, the left speaker has a totally different tune than the right. So a simple "Line Output Converter" is not the correct device for this vehicle, the KeyLOC is the only one in our industry that can do this properly...remember the patents I mentioned??

This option includes a custom-made harness by our team and is pre-programmed at our facility to match your truck's factory stereo system. Just connect the power/ground, remote turn-on, and the included RCAs from the custom harness to your amplifier. Then you now have the professional way to fix the bass roll-off and have the signal you need for a great subwoofer system.


Option- Keep Factory Bass Roll-Off:
As you might have already experienced, the factory B&O systems will roll back the bass over volume 14 and it will come in and out depending on the song. This roll-off exists to protect the factory subwoofer from damage, but for most users, it creates an unpleasant listening experience. This harness uses the factory subwoofer connection, so the roll-off will still exist at volumes over the 14 mark, but if you are a lower volume level listener or just want more bass in a cost-effective manner, this harness is for you. This harness connects at the subwoofer, not the green plug on the enclosure. Simply remove the subwoofer from the enclosure and our harness plugs right in. No need to splice wires to upgrade the subwoofer system in your vehicle.

For the High-Level and low-level options. You will need to see if your amplifier accepts speaker-level/high-level inputs and how. For example, here are several popular amplifiers and if they accept High-Level inputs:

Arc Audio High-Level = RCA
Mosconi High Level = RCA
Kicker = RCA
New Alpine High Level = RCA
Older Alpine High Level = Speaker Wire
JL Audio High-Level = RCA
Audiocontrol High-Level = Speaker Wire
New Rockford High-Level = RCA
Old Rockford High-Level = Speaker Wire
Skar Audio RP Series High-Level = Does not have it, you cannot use soldered RCA from your ACM. You must convert this with a LOC or Kicker KeyLOC, etc.
Sundown Salt Series High-Level = Does not have it, you cannot use soldered RCA from your ACM. You must convert this with a LOC or Kicker KeyLOC, etc.
DD Audio M Series High-Level = Does not have it, you cannot use soldered RCA from your ACM. You must convert this with a LOC or Kicker KeyLOC, etc.
Rockville = High-Level = Does not have it, you cannot use soldered RCA from your ACM. You must convert this with a LOC or Kicker KeyLOC, etc.
etc....

Any questions, please let us know and we can guide you in the right direction.

Photo of the Roll-Off Fix Solution:

You folks seem to be quite knowledgeable of the Ford B&O sound system. Have you offered to assist Ford in troubleshooting the ear-damaging explosive boom and extremely loud static events with the B&O sound systems in their vehicles? This issue has been reported since 2018 in some ICE models, and it continues to occur in some ICE and EV models.

 

[thedadlegend]

How much

 

[daczone]

I'm sure everyone knows of this problem and everyone is fighting to fix it. We have been using this method for a long time, but just now had time to add it to our website so you can purchase it easily. It's the same setup that we use on our packages and is the proper way to fix the bass roll-off.

Here is a copy/paste that I just wrote for our website that explains more. Any questions, please let me know

Option- Fix Factory Bass Roll-Off:
We have tested thoroughly just about every integration option on these trucks and while some can try to prevent the bass roll-off, they are simply a band-aid that does not work very well. Most are just a bass boost on the bottom end, but this boost exists when the roll-off is not happening, so you will constantly fight the remote subwoofer level/bass knob to "tame" the new subwoofer system.

Our approach is very different than most, but it is backed by testing along with a few key patents that make this happen. Instead of utilizing the factory subwoofer connection, we utilize a pair of interior speakers. Now these speakers do not have much subwoofer bass going to them, but it's just enough for the Kicker KeyLOC integration module to restore it properly. So why did we choose the Kicker KeyLOC? Well, it's the only integration module that can fix the All-Pass Filters on the interior speakers. Since we need both the left speaker and the right speaker to create the signal, we need to combine them to create one. As you might know, the left speaker has a totally different tune than the right. So a simple "Line Output Converter" is not the correct device for this vehicle, the KeyLOC is the only one in our industry that can do this properly...remember the patents I mentioned??

This option includes a custom-made harness by our team and is pre-programmed at our facility to match your truck's factory stereo system. Just connect the power/ground, remote turn-on, and the included RCAs from the custom harness to your amplifier. Then you now have the professional way to fix the bass roll-off and have the signal you need for a great subwoofer system.


Option- Keep Factory Bass Roll-Off:
As you might have already experienced, the factory B&O systems will roll back the bass over volume 14 and it will come in and out depending on the song. This roll-off exists to protect the factory subwoofer from damage, but for most users, it creates an unpleasant listening experience. This harness uses the factory subwoofer connection, so the roll-off will still exist at volumes over the 14 mark, but if you are a lower volume level listener or just want more bass in a cost-effective manner, this harness is for you. This harness connects at the subwoofer, not the green plug on the enclosure. Simply remove the subwoofer from the enclosure and our harness plugs right in. No need to splice wires to upgrade the subwoofer system in your vehicle.

For the High-Level and low-level options. You will need to see if your amplifier accepts speaker-level/high-level inputs and how. For example, here are several popular amplifiers and if they accept High-Level inputs:

Arc Audio High-Level = RCA
Mosconi High Level = RCA
Kicker = RCA
New Alpine High Level = RCA
Older Alpine High Level = Speaker Wire
JL Audio High-Level = RCA
Audiocontrol High-Level = Speaker Wire
New Rockford High-Level = RCA
Old Rockford High-Level = Speaker Wire
Skar Audio RP Series High-Level = Does not have it, you cannot use soldered RCA from your ACM. You must convert this with a LOC or Kicker KeyLOC, etc.
Sundown Salt Series High-Level = Does not have it, you cannot use soldered RCA from your ACM. You must convert this with a LOC or Kicker KeyLOC, etc.
DD Audio M Series High-Level = Does not have it, you cannot use soldered RCA from your ACM. You must convert this with a LOC or Kicker KeyLOC, etc.
Rockville = High-Level = Does not have it, you cannot use soldered RCA from your ACM. You must convert this with a LOC or Kicker KeyLOC, etc.
etc....

Any questions, please let us know and we can guide you in the right direction.

Photo of the Roll-Off Fix Solution:

I'd like to go with this solution... I think the B&O system in my brand new Lightning is garbage! There is little to no bass, and upon folding the back seat forward I see why. That little subwoofer is a joke for a $80k vehicle. So.... Kicker LOC it is. But these guys charging $264 for the Kicker LOC ($129) and a harness and some soldering? For what appears to be the APH-FD02 harness. ($29)

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

I'd like to go with this solution... I think the B&O system in my brand new Lightning is garbage! There is little to no bass, and upon folding the back seat forward I see why. That little subwoofer is a joke for a $80k vehicle. So.... Kicker LOC it is. But these guys charging $264 for the Kicker LOC ($129) and a harness and some soldering? For what appears to be the APH-FD02 harness. ($29)

Yes, those are the raw components. But you’re missing two elements, wiring up the FD02 ( soldering 20+ wires into one another to create a loop) and pre-tuning each one of these before shipping in a truck.

If you have a DMM, DD-1, Oscilloscope and a RTA plus training on signal analysis, you can buy the raw ingredients. If you do not, set yourself up for success with our setup

 

[daczone]

Yes, those are the raw components. But you’re missing two elements, wiring up the FD02 ( soldering 20+ wires into one another to create a loop) and pre-tuning each one of these before shipping in a truck.

If you have a DMM, DD-1, Oscilloscope and a RTA plus training on signal analysis, you can buy the raw ingredients. If you do not, set yourself up for success with our setup

Why Yes I do have a DD-1 and an Oscilloscope. (My Audi TT has a 8000 watt system in it) Seems like a pretty high labor rate for your time. I love supporting others but your price for this system seems a bit much. Most of those 20+ wires are pass thru's. Lets be realistic your soldering... 4 subwoofer wires and wrapping them with fabric tape.

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

Why Yes I do have a DD-1 and an Oscilloscope. (My Audi TT has a 8000 watt system in it) Seems like a pretty high labor rate for your time. I love supporting others but your price for this system seems a bit much. Most of those 20+ wires are pass thru's. Lets be realistic your soldering... 4 subwoofer wires and wrapping them with fabric tape.

Awesome! We offer all of the raw components on our website for this reason. Just remember, the FD02, you must solder every wire back to itself then extract the appropriate signal to feed the KeyLoc

 

[3121]

Rocksgate Fossford is dope

 

[BennyTheBeaver]

Does this work on 6 speaker systems? Does the correction in ForScan work? I tried to correct the Bass Roll-off via ForScan last year, it created an unusable loop that always reverted back to radio despite choosing any other screen in SYNC. Luckily, I listen to my music at 15.

I have SGS's back-off plates and those made a significant diffence in sound quality (and even some road noise). SGS might be pricey, but their stuff seems quality, and I trust their development and solution. Also, I have no affiliation with them.

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

Does this work on 6 speaker systems? Does the correction in ForScan work? I tried to correct the Bass Roll-off via ForScan last year, it created an unusable loop that always reverted back to radio despite choosing any other screen in SYNC. Luckily, I listen to my music at 15.

I have SGS's back-off plates and those made a significant diffence in sound quality (and even some road noise). SGS might be pricey, but their stuff seems quality, and I trust their development and solution. Also, I have no affiliation with them.

Non-B&O is very different.

If you are running a subwoofer only, a KeyLoc is required to restore the low frequency signal.

If you are running a full system, you do not need the KeyLocs, you want to use ForScan to turn off the EQ and run the signal into the hi-level inputs of the amplifiers.

 

[digitaldad]

@SoundsGoodStereo , just hooked mine up yesterday with amp/sub. Today, I started with the speakers (only got to one rear due to weather).

I found out while testing the new rear with the fader, the sub was gone. This tells me that the keyloc via harness is tied to the front doors/speakers.

On our trucks, we tend to slide the fader more to the rears. Primarily due to the loud center channel and lack of overall sound in the rear.

I'm hoping this is less of a problem after all speaker are replaced...

...but, question:

Can the harness be modified to use the rear doors/speakers vs. the front? I'm on B&O 8-speaker.

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

@SoundsGoodStereo , just hooked mine up yesterday with amp/sub. Today, I started with the speakers (only got to one rear due to weather).

I found out while testing the new rear with the fader, the sub was gone. This tells me that the keyloc via harness is tied to the front doors/speakers.

On our trucks, we tend to slide the fader more to the rears. Primarily due to the loud center channel and lack of overall sound in the rear.

I'm hoping this is less of a problem after all speaker are replaced...

...but, question:

Can the harness be modified to use the rear doors/speakers vs. the front? I'm on B&O 8-speaker.

It's not as easy as just tagging the rear speakers. Fade to where you like the factory system, and then adjust the gain on your amplifier to your liking at that position.

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