Are the speakers you used 2-way? Do you know which models you used?it's worth it. I had a blown 6.5" rear speaker and upgrade all door speaker to Alpine R-S series and disconnected the center channel.
Yes 2 way. Front has a crossover and tweeter I needed to install in the A pillar.Are the speakers you used 2-way? Do you know which models you used?
You may want to blame the B&O engineers. They're the ones that tuned the system.Ford audio engineers - did you hear that?
Removing a primary speaker from a configuration makes the audio sound better is basically the worse critique you can give. Lol
How did you do the replacements/additions? Did you follow any specific guides or document what you did? If so, can you provide them? I'm very interested in improving my B&O system's audio.I replaced the front and rear door speakers with these https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646CC674/Kicker-46CSC674.html?omnews=8635307. They did improve the sound but it was not night and day. The biggest difference was in the highs, much clearer. My truck is a XLT without the B&O for what it is worth. I just recently added a 12" Kicker Sub and a Kicker 500.1 Key amp, this has made a world of difference and was worth the effort and cost. The sub rounded the system out and I am now happy and it sounds way better than any factory system.
I went with an LC2i and a bass knob, too.For the door speakers I got them for Crutchfield along with mounting rings and adaptor plugs so they were fairly plug and play. The adaptor rings needed a hole drilled in them to pass the wires though and an bit of trimming to fit properly. I did this back in 22 and I think the adaptor rings were for the previous gen truck at the time. You can probably find ones now that will just fit without any mods. For the amp and sub I tapped the front left and right tweeters in the pillars as they were easy to access at the time and I did not have a T harness on hand. I would use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C4VBMPTK/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=AO3YTZ6BCMVCB&psc=1 if I had it to do over to wire the amp in. You will want to use an amp or LOC (line output converter) with a DSP in your truck because the factory systems roll off the bass as you increase the volume. The DSP makes a huge difference. Kicker has the Key amps that have this bilt in along with there KeyLoc as well. Audio Controls Lc2i is also a another well regarded option as well. https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/lc2i/. As far as I can tell there is no way to disable the bass roll off in the Lightning via Forscan, so a DSP is the way if you want to add a sub + amp that will sound good. The downside to the DSP is it is tuned at a certain volume level and when lower it to where the bass is not rolled off it can get a bit too much so a bass knob is also necessary if you really want to have a good sounding system in my option. If someone knows how to get rid of the bass roll off and cut on our trucks please do share, as that would be the best way.
