roddiaz1
Well-known member
- First Name
- Rod
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2022
- Threads
- 4
- Messages
- 186
- Reaction score
- 108
- Location
- Pittsburgh
- Vehicles
- 2023 Ford Lightning Lariat ER Carbonized Grey
It does. Thanks.
Sponsored
You may not know it but you just helped answer my question (https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...o-work-around-the-bonded-neutral-issue.14764/). Your test results show the Lightning is only doing conventional GFCI fault detection on the two 120V legs (L1-N and L2-N) since your 240V pump with bonded ground-neutral worked without problems. I was wondering if the Lightning was doing any special ground fault detection for 240V only loads. Now I am confident that's not the case and an autotransformer will work for preventing GFCI trips with the Lightning.On day two, the water pressure finally went to zero, despite our conservation and we all wanted to take showers, so I decided to hot-wire the well pump (240V 30AMP) directly from the Lightnings 30Amp 240V plug (in the bed). My pump has a junction box (where I can disconnect from the main panel).
The problem was that I had a four-wire extension cord (B,R,W,G) and the pump has a three wire set-up (B,W, bare copper), so I had no choice but to "bond" the neutral and the ground at the junction box. I literally had both on the same screw/lug in the junction box. Wouldn't you know, it worked! The Lightning didn't flinch. It powered the well pump for several hours even though it was "bonded".
I'm definitely not an electrician, so I can't explain why, but it worked.
When you disconnected your ground, did you just open the inlet box and remove the ground from the plug? (still runs to your home panel, just not connected at the inlet end) I saw some trying to do it on the cable itself or even breaking off the ground, but I'd rather not go that route.Yes, I have a grid-tied solar array with a hybrid Schneider inverter and controller, an LFP backup battery, and a 30A generator input that can be used to recharge the battery in the case of an extended outage. (The key to a system like this is that you will already have your critical circuits on a separate subpanel, so that you will not exceed the 30A output of the Lightning's Pro Power outlet in the bed.) The LFP battery backup option with the solar works great, by itself, for 2-6 hour outages (which are fairly common here). It is, however, a bit of a pain during extended outages when solar recharging is not available - especially if it's -40F and you are trying to start a cold-soaked generator.
My backup solution fits exactly what you are describing. To make it work without even having to go outside in the cold, I installed a 30A extension circuit that runs from an L15-30P outlet box inside my garage (Remember this is an input circuit that is always unpowered UNTIL it is plugged into the Lightning so the plug you see there isn't hot.)
to an L15-30R outlet next to the 30A generator input (L15-30P) on the deck. (Yes, you do need to disconnect the ground on the deck outlet to prevent the Lightning Pro Power from faulting.)
Normally, I always keep the garage output cord connected to the generator input. That saves me from having to go outside during an extended power outage. It also keeps debris, spider webs, etc. from getting in the outlets.
If the power goes out, my critical circuits are automatically powered for 2-6 hours by the LFP battery tied to the inverter,. If there is no (or too little) solar recharging, and my LFP battery starts to get low, I only need to manually turn on the 30A Pro Power outlet in the bed and plug in the 30A extension cable on the interior garage wall. Presto, the inverter see the Lightning's input power and treats it like the generator that it is. The image below is from the Schneider App with the Lightning providing power to the inverter. (The running time is blank because I did the screen capture before 1 minute had elapsed.)
If the power outage goes on for days (and the solar darkness continues) and the Lightning's battery gets low, you simply start your generator, unplug the extension cable from the garage output outlet on the deck then plug it into the generator's 30A L15-30R outlet. (If your generator fuel runs out, just accept that you are going to die - OR before running out of generator fuel, drive the Lightning to a charger with power, charge it up, then return home and start over.)
If your Lightning is parked close to your generator input, you may not need to install the 30A extension circuit I installed between my garage and the generator input on my deck. A simple pass thru port in your garage wall for an extension cord may work. I do prefer the added safety of a hard wired circuit as opposed to an extension cord laying on the ground.
Although I'm not familiar with hybrid inverter brands you are considering I don't see any reason it wouldn't work so long as your inverter's generator input circuit is designed for a 30A input - the max the Lightning's Pro Power can provide.
I simply disconnected the ground inside the inlet box. I agree with you about not permanently altering the cable. By disconnecting inside the box, you can easily reconnect the ground, if necessary, and you don't have an unsafe cord laying around if you want to use it for another purpose.When you disconnected your ground, did you just open the inlet box and remove the ground from the plug? (still runs to your home panel, just not connected at the inlet end) I saw some trying to do it on the cable itself or even breaking off the ground, but I'd rather not go that route.
Yeah its not something i plan to use all the time, but when the time comes, i'd rather not pull out the gas generators when I have 3 days worth of power in a silent truck. Thanks for the info!I simply disconnected the ground inside the inlet box. I agree with you about not permanently altering the cable. By disconnecting inside the box, you can easily reconnect the ground, if necessary, and you don't have an unsafe cord laying around if you want to use it for another purpose.