Trailer brake not working

[dog_tired]

I have a new 2021 f150 power boost.

I purchased a 2020 airstream and towed it 10.5 hours from Wisconsin to Nebraska.

I set the trailer brake fine in Wisconsin and it seemed to be working without issue. I did mess with the gain a lot trying to get it right.

I parked in my driveway for 3 days and when i towed it to storage, the trailer brake was not working.

It would show my trailer connected, and allow me to select the trailer, but when I would try to manually squeeze the trailer brake a screen popped up saying “no trailer” and the brakes were clearly not engaging. (I noticed this because I could tell I was getting pushed when i got off an exit ramp.)

Anyone seen this happen? I checked the 7 pin connector and it looks like new. I was thinking it may be a fuse in the truck - but didn’t have time to check.

When the trailer is not connected at all the message from the trailer brake is a bit different, showing a pop up that shows trailer disconnected. When trailer was connected, it popped up like it should - but underneath the gain settings shows “no trailer” and the brakes don’t work.

I should also add that the signal lights, brake lights and everything else seem to be working on the airstream.

Jumping in here late, but I too had this issue.
Turns out, the batteries on my airstream were not producing enough amps and needed to be replaced. Issue solved.

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[wayne b]

Jumping in here late, but I too had this issue.
Turns out, the batteries on my airstream were not producing enough amps and needed to be replaced. Issue solved.

Wondering with this fix, when you would look at the SeaLevel monitor or solar panel, what volts did it say the batteries were at? Was it obvious the batteries weren't holding a charge or did they need to be tested with a battery tester?

 

[turbopilot]

Jumping in here late, but I too had this issue.
Turns out, the batteries on my airstream were not producing enough amps and needed to be replaced. Issue solved.

How is this possible? In the Airstream there is no connection to the electric brakes and the trailer electrical system unless the break away switch is tripped.

 

[Wild Pig]

Thanks for the tip. Have you tested the echo on the trailer brake hookup and confirmed that it works good over the factory brake controller?

I haven't yet actually, and probably should. I'll post the results if I get a chance to take the trailer back out.

 

[wayne b]

I cross posted about this issue on the airforums airstream board, and there's people that think it's the AS pigtail connector, not the Ford. Advice ranges from you need to use conductive or dielectric grease on the connector (looking for some certain advice as to which), to you should replace the connector. Here's a thread about the connector. One person linked to an interesting PDF which suggests even though there's an "industry standard" 7 pin connector there is a distinct difference between single flat blade and dual blades. My Airstream has the dual blades, and realizing not everyone with this problem has an Airstream, but perhaps the dual blades is one factor. (Second image has the brand). Looking at mine I can definitely imagine cleaning them (with what grease and what wire brush?)

 

[travisN000]

I cross posted about this issue on the airforums airstream board, and there's people that think it's the AS pigtail connector, not the Ford. Advice ranges from you need to use conductive or dielectric grease on the connector (looking for some certain advice as to which), to you should replace the connector. Here's a thread about the connector. One person linked to an interesting PDF which suggests even though there's an "industry standard" 7 pin connector there is a distinct difference between single flat blade and dual blades. My Airstream has the dual blades, and realizing not everyone with this problem has an Airstream, but perhaps the dual blades is one factor. (Second image has the brand). Looking at mine I can definitely imagine cleaning them (with what grease and what wire brush?)

My camper has the dual blade design, and I did have this problem initially.

I fixed it by cleaning the blades, using a small pick to bend them into a tighter fit, and then added dielectric grease to the brake and gound pins for good measure.

Since doing this I have towed close to 1000 miles and not had a single issue.

 

[wayne b]

My camper has the dual blade design, and I did have this problem initially.

I fixed it by cleaning the blades, using a small pick to bend them into a tighter fit, and then added dielectric grease to the brake and gound pins for good measure.

Since doing this I have towed close to 1000 miles and not had a single issue.

What do you mean by adding ground pins? Another odd thing about the design of these connectors is looking at the close up of my photo it seems like the blades at 11 oclock (running lights) and 5 o'clock (brake connection) are slightly wider than the rest.

This seems to be a straightforward "how to clean" video from etrailer -

 

[travisN000]

What do you mean by adding ground pins? Another odd thing about the design of these connectors is looking at the close up of my photo it seems like the blades at 11 oclock (running lights) and 5 o'clock (brake connection) are slightly wider than the rest.

This seems to be a straightforward "how to clean" video from etrailer -

I didn't add pins, I cleaned and added dielectric grease, essentially same as the video you posted, but tightened the contacts first.

Before I added the grease (I used less than the guy in the video, to keep it from gathering dirt when not in use), I used a small pick / probe to push the blades closer together by sliding the pick in behind the contact surfaces of the blades and pushing them toward and just beyond center to tighten the contact between them.

I am not sure, but I am guessing the pins on the F150 trailer connection port are slightly thinner, as the whole connector fits more loosely on the F150 than it does on my wife's 2017 RAM 1500. Tightening and cleaning/protecting the connection made by the spring 'blades' seems to have fixed the problem for now, at least for me.

 

[Jason Kendall]

I have this same issue. I want to thank everyone who has shared their experience and ideas.

On my vehicle, the brake controller works normally when towing at the beginning of a trip. At a random point, the brake controller stops working and no longer actuates the trailer’s brakes from either the brake pedal or the pinch switch on the controller. Disturbingly, the truck’s towing display shows multiple bars of brake power as if the controller is working correctly. There is no “trailer disconnected” or other error. Once the controller stops working, it does not start working again by itself during the trip.

I have tried various fixes as described earlier in this thread: dielectric or conductive greases, changing the 7-pin connector on the trailer’s cable, diligently cleaning the 7-pin contacts, zip ties, bungee cords and shims, driving with the lights on, towing with the trailer on or off, and plugging the trailer into the truck only when the truck’s electronics have been dormant.

I have isolated the problem to the truck. After driving 10 miles recently, the problem presented itself. I turned off the truck, did nothing, and just waited 15 minutes. When I restarted the truck, the brake controller worked normally. I think the computers need to shut down and reboot. However, that is temporary, and it can fail again during the next trip segment. It isn’t clear what random event triggers the fault.

I believe this is definitive proof, and I am interacting with my dealer and Ford 1-800 customer service. They are cordial and responsive, but I don’t have confidence they have the knowledge or interest to solve this problem.

My current plan is to continue trying to get Ford to timely address this problem. In the meantime, I’m going to try the last 2 things I can think of:
1. Turn off trailer sway control. While I’m not excited about this, maybe that electronic module interferes with the controller. Has anyone tried this?
2. Attempt to unplug the integrated brake controller and install an aftermarket controller. I’m concerned, though, that this will mess up something else in the truck’s computers.

Today, I visited a Chevy dealer and test drove a 2020 Silverado 1500 LTZ. Since it’s so hard to find a new vehicle on a reasonable time scale, I might just purchase a lightly used non-Ford if the other options don’t pan out, and purchase a new non-Ford once the chip shortage is over.

Ford, I hope you read this thread and jump on this problem. I would add that I’m an engineer and have 2 US patents on automotive brakes.

I hope this community keeps this thread active. Again, I’ve learned a lot from this forum and appreciate the expertise that has been shared.

 

[rpeterslll]

I have this same issue. I want to thank everyone who has shared their experience and ideas.

On my vehicle, the brake controller works normally when towing at the beginning of a trip. At a random point, the brake controller stops working and no longer actuates the trailer’s brakes from either the brake pedal or the pinch switch on the controller. Disturbingly, the truck’s towing display shows multiple bars of brake power as if the controller is working correctly. There is no “trailer disconnected” or other error. Once the controller stops working, it does not start working again by itself during the trip.

I have tried various fixes as described earlier in this thread: dielectric or conductive greases, changing the 7-pin connector on the trailer’s cable, diligently cleaning the 7-pin contacts, zip ties, bungee cords and shims, driving with the lights on, towing with the trailer on or off, and plugging the trailer into the truck only when the truck’s electronics have been dormant.

I have isolated the problem to the truck. After driving 10 miles recently, the problem presented itself. I turned off the truck, did nothing, and just waited 15 minutes. When I restarted the truck, the brake controller worked normally. I think the computers need to shut down and reboot. However, that is temporary, and it can fail again during the next trip segment. It isn’t clear what random event triggers the fault.

I believe this is definitive proof, and I am interacting with my dealer and Ford 1-800 customer service. They are cordial and responsive, but I don’t have confidence they have the knowledge or interest to solve this problem.

My current plan is to continue trying to get Ford to timely address this problem. In the meantime, I’m going to try the last 2 things I can think of:
1. Turn off trailer sway control. While I’m not excited about this, maybe that electronic module interferes with the controller. Has anyone tried this?
2. Attempt to unplug the integrated brake controller and install an aftermarket controller. I’m concerned, though, that this will mess up something else in the truck’s computers.

Today, I visited a Chevy dealer and test drove a 2020 Silverado 1500 LTZ. Since it’s so hard to find a new vehicle on a reasonable time scale, I might just purchase a lightly used non-Ford if the other options don’t pan out, and purchase a new non-Ford once the chip shortage is over.

Ford, I hope you read this thread and jump on this problem. I would add that I’m an engineer and have 2 US patents on automotive brakes.

I hope this community keeps this thread active. Again, I’ve learned a lot from this forum and appreciate the expertise that has been shared.

Be sure to report your experience to the NHTSA online. After this was done, I was contacted by Ford to do some data collection. So they are aware of the issue. We’re just waiting on the fix. Unfortunately Ford doesn’t like to give us a timeframe on the solution.

 

[Jason Kendall]

I cross posted about this issue on the airforums airstream board, and there's people that think it's the AS pigtail connector, not the Ford. Advice ranges from you need to use conductive or dielectric grease on the connector (looking for some certain advice as to which), to you should replace the connector. Here's a thread about the connector. One person linked to an interesting PDF which suggests even though there's an "industry standard" 7 pin connector there is a distinct difference between single flat blade and dual blades. My Airstream has the dual blades, and realizing not everyone with this problem has an Airstream, but perhaps the dual blades is one factor. (Second image has the brand). Looking at mine I can definitely imagine cleaning them (with what grease and what wire brush?)

As you've described well, I believe there's an incompatibility between the design of the electrical connectors on the Bargman-style 7-way plug and the contacts in the 7-way receptacle on the F150. They do not connect solidly. Shims, velcro, and bungee cords can help hold the assembly together. I decided to replace the Bargman plug with one made by Pollak, and the connection is now far more solid and stable. You can find the Pollak part on eTrailer and other sites. You need to pay attention to the wires when making the replacement, but it is a straightforward job.

Cleaning the electrical contacts with a product like DeoxIT or another electrical contact spray is also good.

These are steps in the right direction to improve electrical contact. But in my experience, these actions don't prevent the failure in the first place from occurring with the brake controller and its associated computers and electronics.

 

[wayne b]

As you've described well, I believe there's an incompatibility between the design of the electrical connectors on the Bargman-style 7-way plug and the contacts in the 7-way receptacle on the F150. They do not connect solidly. Shims, velcro, and bungee cords can help hold the assembly together. I decided to replace the Bargman plug with one made by Pollak, and the connection is now far more solid and stable. You can find the Pollak part on eTrailer and other sites. You need to pay attention to the wires when making the replacement, but it is a straightforward job.

Cleaning the electrical contacts with a product like DeoxIT or another electrical contact spray is also good.

These are steps in the right direction to improve electrical contact. But in my experience, these actions don't prevent the failure in the first place from occurring with the brake controller and its associated computers and electronics.

OK, reading your last two posts - you do think there exists an incompatibility between some 7-pin connectors and the Ford and it's worth swapping it out? Even after you swapped yours out, that has not solved a Ford software / electrical issue, as evidenced by the rebooting fixing it (sometimes)?

 

[Jason Kendall]

OK, reading your last two posts - you do think there exists an incompatibility between some 7-pin connectors and the Ford and it's worth swapping it out? Even after you swapped yours out, that has not solved a Ford software / electrical issue, as evidenced by the rebooting fixing it (sometimes)?

I found that the Bargman plug didn’t “snap” into my truck’s receptacle, could wiggle around, and needed shims or bungee cords, or even tape as some have used, to stay seated. I think it’s certainly possible for it to make good electrical contact, but it’s more tenuous than other plug designs. It seems to me it’s intended for a truck receptacle where each electrical lead is a single flat blade that slides between the two prongs shown in your photos. On my F150, each electrical lead in the receptacle is more in the shape of a vee. The tip touches the 2 prongs on the Bargman contacts, but it can’t mechanically insert all the way. Other trailer-side plugs, like the one I used, have a single electrical contact that seems better suited for contact with the vee, and inserts fully and solidly into the receptacle.

I replaced my plug when I was trying to diagnose and isolate the source of the brakes problem. I feel I can eliminate the idea of a loose 7-way connection being the failure point, or at least make it unlikely. It didn’t solve the brakes problem. But it did help me eliminate one possibility and find that rebooting the truck’s electrical system seems to be the fix, at least in my case.

Again, I appreciate the opportunity to compare notes and ideas with everyone on this forum.

 

[rpeterslll]

I was recently contacted by my Ford dealer where I had Ford engineers inspect my break issue a few months ago. They stated that the trailer module is there for my F150 and that FSE would like them to replace mine. They replaced the trailer brake module and reprogrammed it. No word on if this trailer module was a revised version and if the software was a new release. I wont be able to test the trailer brakes until April when I pull by RV out, but hopefully this addresses the problem. I just wish there was more communication regarding this replacement module.

 

[wayne b]

I was recently contacted by my Ford dealer where I had Ford engineers inspect my break issue a few months ago. They stated that the trailer module is there for my F150 and that FSE would like them to replace mine. They replaced the trailer brake module and reprogrammed it. No word on if this trailer module was a revised version and if the software was a new release. I wont be able to test the trailer brakes until April when I pull by RV out, but hopefully this addresses the problem. I just wish there was more communication regarding this replacement module.

We gave feedback to the dealer who sold us the car a few days after it happened. They didn't reply with even a "we're sorry" and had no follow up from Ford. I'm taking my F-150 into (another) dealer tomorrow to check it out. We'll be heading out next week with the trailer after the service.

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