Finished installing my charger & generator manual transfer switch [to provide emergency power to my house using 240v 30a plug in the truck bed]

[Maquis]

Simply get some green electrical tape and tape up both ends of the white wire with it. Code violation gone!

The NEC only allows re-identification if either the wire is part of a cable assembly or is #6 or larger. In this case (#10 individual conductors run in conduit), re-identification is not allowed.

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[FlasherZ]

Simply get some green electrical tape and tape up both ends of the white wire with it. Code violation gone!

Incorrect. Only valid for #4 and larger, or when the wire is part of a multiconductor cable assembly (e.g., Romex) - provided that it is marked at every accessible point in the circuit by stripping the wire, coloring the exposed insulation green, or using encircling tape on the conductor.

See 250.119(A) and (B).

 

[MM in SouthTX]

I am one of the people who reserved a Lightning because of the backup power option. After learning more, I don't plan to spend another $4,000 for the hardware required. Instead, I have an electrician who is coming to install a transfer switch and a 240 plug (much like the original post here), so I can use my 9KW portable Champion generator to power most of my house.

Any reason I can't use the Lightning's 240V power as an alternate through the same plug (or another plug on a different leg into the garage where the Lightning will be)? Anything else that I should have done at this time to be ready for vehicle-to-grid connection should it come of age? The transfer switch will be a Generac automatic that I will use manually, in case I decide later to do a whole-house Generac.

The electrician will also be getting me set up with a 100A/240V leg for the FCSP charger in the garage. The service comes into the house on the back wall of the garage, so fortunately it's a short run.

 

[frautumn]

Any reason I can't use the Lightning's 240V power as an alternate through the same plug (or another plug on a different leg into the garage where the Lightning will be)?

I would think this should work. However I tried it at my fire station where we have a similar setup, and upon plugging in the 240 plug to the Lightning, the Lightning gave an error about a ground fault detection. So I guess the original wiring was not done in a way to be compatible with the Lightning, though it does work with our generator.

Here is what I found in the manual regarding the ground fault:

Grounding Type
Neutral Bonded
The neutral of the inverter generator is bonded to system ground. Connecting loads that also have neutral bonded to ground causes the ground fault detection to trip.

 

[bg226]

I'm wondering if a transfer switch is going to work properly. I was using a drill plugged into the outlet in the bed and found that the truck needed to be turned on to supply power, and then every 30 minutes I had to go inside the truck to press ok on the steering wheel to keep it from powering off. Not sure if the 240v outlet behaves the same, but I figure it would.

 

[Maquis]

I'm wondering if a transfer switch is going to work properly. I was using a drill plugged into the outlet in the bed and found that the truck needed to be turned on to supply power, and then every 30 minutes I had to go inside the truck to press ok on the steering wheel to keep it from powering off. Not sure if the 240v outlet behaves the same, but I figure it would.

You can disable the power-down timer.

 

[FlasherZ]

Any reason I can't use the Lightning's 240V power as an alternate through the same plug (or another plug on a different leg into the garage where the Lightning will be)? Anything else that I should have done at this time to be ready for vehicle-to-grid connection should it come of age? The transfer switch will be a Generac automatic that I will use manually, in case I decide later to do a whole-house Generac.

The electrician will also be getting me set up with a 100A/240V leg for the FCSP charger in the garage. The service comes into the house on the back wall of the garage, so fortunately it's a short run.

You are likely to have problems with this setup, because the truck does ground fault detection.

You will need a transfer switch that also switches the neutral conductor, otherwise you end up tripping the truck's GFI protection due to the ground-neutral bond that is located in your service panel. The Generac ATS does not do this switch (at least my 200A ATS does not).

I would think this should work. However I tried it at my fire station where we have a similar setup, and upon plugging in the 240 plug to the Lightning, the Lightning gave an error about a ground fault detection. So I guess the original wiring was not done in a way to be compatible with the Lightning, though it does work with our generator.

Here is what I found in the manual regarding the ground fault:

Grounding Type
Neutral Bonded
The neutral of the inverter generator is bonded to system ground. Connecting loads that also have neutral bonded to ground causes the ground fault detection to trip.

Correct, you need a transfer switch that will switch the neutrals as well.

I'm wondering if a transfer switch is going to work properly. I was using a drill plugged into the outlet in the bed and found that the truck needed to be turned on to supply power, and then every 30 minutes I had to go inside the truck to press ok on the steering wheel to keep it from powering off. Not sure if the 240v outlet behaves the same, but I figure it would.

This is configurable. You can set the Pro Power Onboard to time out only when it hits a certain minimum battery level.

 

[mmcguirk]

You are likely to have problems with this setup, because the truck does ground fault detection.

You will need a transfer switch that also switches the neutral conductor, otherwise you end up tripping the truck's GFI protection due to the ground-neutral bond that is located in your service panel. The Generac ATS does not do this switch (at least my 200A ATS does not).

@FlasherZ, I currently have a mechanical "interconnect" (I think it's called) controlling the source (generator/grid) to a sub-panel with all my essential services. Given the neutral bonding issue, I assume I'll have to replace the interconnect with manual transfer switch that can handle the grounding issue. Rather than duplicating/replacing my current setup with a multi-circuit box like I see advertised by Generac and Reliance, would a single circuit transfer switch like this one work?

 

[Firestop]

So I think I understand the need for. a “switched neutral” at the manual transfer breakers. My existing manual breakers on my existing Critical Loads sub-panel are in the photo below. Question: Can this interlocked breaker for my backup power source, if properly wired, accomplish switching the neutral?

 

[FlasherZ]

So I think I understand the need for. a “switched neutral” at the manual transfer breakers. My existing manual breakers on my existing Critical Loads sub-panel are in the photo below. Question: Can this interlocked breaker for my backup power source, if properly wired, accomplish switching the neutral?

No, because it only switches the two ungrounded ("hot") conductors.

 

[Firestop]

No, because it only switches the two ungrounded ("hot") conductors.

Thx. Does Siemens make such a breaker in 60A? I’ve been searching their web site and found lower amperage switched neutral breakers, but nothing in 60A…..

 

[FlasherZ]

I'm not aware of a Siemens model. Eaton makes a manual transfer breaker in its CH series, and Reliance makes some manual transfer switches.

https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/cata...wer/residential-manual-transfer-switches.html

 

[Firestop]

I'm not aware of a Siemens model. Eaton makes a manual transfer breaker in its CH series, and Reliance makes some manual transfer switches.

https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/cata...wer/residential-manual-transfer-switches.html

Thx!

 

[wiffleballpractice]

I've been trying to run down a way to do this without installing a transfer switch that is part of a critical loads panel. One electrician I spoke to suggested that this would be possible by using the interlock + generator inlet combination plus a 3-pole (L1, L2, N) safety switch before my panel (neutral ground bond is at the meter for me). Anybody have an opinion on whether that would work?

 

[Lucky EV]

So do ALL manual transfer switches transfer the neutral?…how do I know whether the transfer switch I have transfers the neutral?

Here is my transfer switch and a picture of how it’s installed with my grid tied PV array. I do not currently have battery backup. The PV solar is a 9.9 Kw system with micro inverters. The wire in the conduit running to the left of the combiner box runs to a plug outside.