Sad Day, our great new Lightning is physically a bad fit for garage ... (dumb dumb dumb)

[merek]

I asked to borrow a used F150 to make sure it fit a few months ago. Dealers may not have many F150s but surely they have some newish used ones they don't care if you put a few miles on.

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[broncoaz]

I used to park my Dodge 2500 diesel in a standard 20' garage with 2" to spare. I put down wheel chocks and marked their location with chalk and never had in issue hitting the wall in the 4 years I owned that house. I would check them every few weeks to make sure they didn't shift, sometimes they were 1/4" out of position. I do the same thing with the wheel chocks with my new Bronco. Length isn’t an issue, but I have stuff stacked behind where I back it in.

A few 4x4 pieces of wood built up against the wall to the point where you drive the tires into the wood to position the truck would also work perfectly and wouldn't move.

Rather than trading to a dealer, maybe you can find a person with a Rivian or some other vehicle you'd like who wants to trade +/- the cash difference. I wouldn't take it back to the dealer so they can make a huge ADM selling it second hand.

 

[Simpso57]

This would solve your parking problem. Have a car with about 6 inches to spare and this works perfect:

https://smile.amazon.com/laser-gara...=laser+garage+parking+assist&sa-no-redirect=1

 

[IdeaOfTheDayCom]

Could have brought an ice loaner home and known this.

4x4 on the floor braced to wall. Pad on the wall. 2" to spare.

Very true. The ICE version is about the same size.

There are very few garages in my area large enough for any full sized truck.

 

[PungoteagueDave]

I had this problem in a former house. Glued 1/4" luan plywood to drywall in front of truck, then glued 1/8" stainless plate and indoor/outdoor carpet. Truck had chrome bumper but you could wrap a painted bumper for same quality. We just eased up to the wall, no issues, but had to make sure we never had a hitch ball installed. My wife prefers backing in, asked for a better solution, so I created a recess in the wall. It is safe to remove about half the depth of any studwall for a three or four stud width if you double up the remaining studs, even a bearing wall. If it's a 2x6" wall, even better. The wall was insulated and had some wiring, so a bit of trouble to do, but in the end, I added 3" of depth to teh garage up to 4 feet high, 7 feet wide. If you have metal studs or masonry, no dice for the recess solution, but otherwise, you can do either of these projects and keep your truck.

 

[vandy1981]

I use lasers like that at work, but they would;ldn't solve the problem where the wife won't park the truck... its as much a control issue as a position/information one. Its hard to creep with precision. wheel chocks with pads you drive onto before you hit the stop could work if I could be sure they could never move.

The Lightning also has a habit of rolling a bit when you go into park. It's probably no more than an inch or two, but it could make a difference when things are so tight. Blocks would mitigate this whereas a laser would not.

 

[FlasherZ]

It is safe to remove about half the depth of any studwall for a three or four stud width if you double up the remaining studs, even a bearing wall.

Our local municipality uses the International Residential Code (ICC IRC) - R602.6 allows for notching of up to 25% of a load-bearing wall and 40% of a non-load-bearing wall.

It's unlikely you'd require an inspector to look at your work, but if your insurance company expects you to follow building codes, you're limited to 25% of load-bearing and 40% of non-load-bearing walls, even if you double-up. You may be thinking of hole-boring, which allows for a single-stud's width to be bored at 40% and a double-stud's width to be bored at 40-60%, difference being that in boring, both sides of the stud are intact and in notching, you're taking out material from one side.

 

[FlasherZ]

The Lightning also has a habit of rolling a bit when you go into park. It's probably no more than an inch or two, but it could make a difference when things are so tight.

Mine rolls backwards about an inch each time I go from P to R to P (discovered while trying to make Forscan work for reverse-tilt mirrors).

 

[PiMatrix]

Well if you build greater than ~45 degree ramps the car length will also shrink. Of course you'll need steps to get out and maybe need a higher ceiling?

I remember in San Francisco the old parking spots in under apartment garages were so small that there were actual lazy Susans, you drove in, got out of car, rotated a wooden platform that turned the car 90 degrees and pulled into your spot!

 

[MM in SouthTX]

I asked to borrow a used F150 to make sure it fit a few months ago. Dealers may not have many F150s but surely they have some newish used ones they don't care if you put a few miles on.

Funny reading this in Texas. I have about 20 friends with F150 SuperCrews that I could borrow! And yes, most of them are going to laugh at me and ask how I'm going to charge when I spend the weekend hunting at various ranches.

 

[ChrisCon]

TLR .. it’s a truck . You park trucks outside .


Source : I own 15 trucks . Lol

 

[VTbuckeye]

Our local municipality uses the International Residential Code (ICC IRC) - R602.6 allows for notching of up to 25% of a load-bearing wall and 40% of a non-load-bearing wall.

It's unlikely you'd require an inspector to look at your work, but if your insurance company expects you to follow building codes, you're limited to 25% of load-bearing and 40% of non-load-bearing walls, even if you double-up. You may be thinking of hole-boring, which allows for a single-stud's width to be bored at 40% and a double-stud's width to be bored at 40-60%, difference being that in boring, both sides of the stud are intact and in notching, you're taking out material from one side.

Would it also be possible to frame in a 4 foot tall by 6 or 7 foot wide "window" with cripple studs top (50ish inches) and bottom (6 inches), sill plate on the bottom, header on top and jack studs on the sides? Then you leave the facing material on the other side with some kind of nailing material for attachment on the unsupported "window".

 

[PungoteagueDave]

Our local municipality uses the International Residential Code (ICC IRC) - R602.6 allows for notching of up to 25% of a load-bearing wall and 40% of a non-load-bearing wall.

It's unlikely you'd require an inspector to look at your work, but if your insurance company expects you to follow building codes, you're limited to 25% of load-bearing and 40% of non-load-bearing walls, even if you double-up. You may be thinking of hole-boring, which allows for a single-stud's width to be bored at 40% and a double-stud's width to be bored at 40-60%, difference being that in boring, both sides of the stud are intact and in notching, you're taking out material from one side.

I did NOT say just notching. Yes, you can simply notch up to 25%. But you can take 50% if you sister the studs. I did it essentially with a glue-lam process.. Alternatively, you could box the truck nose area in with a header and completely eliminate the studs, use a little foam for insulation and be done with it.

 

[wighty]

I may be in the same position. I think I'm like.. 2 inches of clearance and that is if it is pulled in perfectly. I have some extra space on one side of the garage that I'm going to clear out and see if pulling in diagonally would make sense.

 

[FlasherZ]

I did NOT say just notching. Yes, you can simply notch up to 25%. But you can take 50% if you sister the studs. I did it essentially with a glue-lam process.. Alternatively, you could box the truck nose area in with a header and completely eliminate the studs, use a little foam for insulation and be done with it.

You can't use doubling/"sistering" to expand notching, only boring.

https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2018/chapter-6-wall-construction#IRC2018_Pt03_Ch06_SecR602.6

And you're right, it's probably best building with header anyway.

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