Installed JL Audio 8" Powered MicroSub+ behind rear seat - Lariat ER

[skyak]

Transforms the audio experience and doesn't interfere with under seat storage. Replaces the stock subwoofer. Power fed from 12v battery. It really is amazing bang for buck. The sub output level control is installed on the steering wheel column. I highly recommend this solution to anyone wanting to improve the audio experience with minimal work.

 

[Pioneer74]

Will your rear seat lock in the up position with it installed?

 

[skyak]

Will your rear seat lock in the up position with it installed?

Yes.

 

[skyak]

This is the sub/amp combo:

https://www.jlaudio.com/products/acp108lg-w3v3-car-audio-microsub-amplified-subwoofer-systems-93330

 

[vagabond7846]

Looks nice.

Can you describe how you routed the power cable from the 12v battery to the backseats?
Also, did you ground on the chassis?
What was your stock stereo setup; regular B&O or unleashed?

 

[skyak]

Hi, stock stereo was regular B&O. I had a shop install it, so not sure on the exact routing and grounding, but I can take a look.

 

[skyak]

Looks nice.

Can you describe how you routed the power cable from the 12v battery to the backseats?
Also, did you ground on the chassis?
What was your stock stereo setup; regular B&O or unleashed?

I checked on the grounding, it is connected to one of the studs that protrudes through the cab floor under the sub location.

Also, the inputs to the sub are set-up for high-level (the sub accepts low-level or high-level), I assume it is using the existing wiring that was going to the B&O sub.

 

[vagabond7846]

Very helpful thank you !

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

Looks nice.

Can you describe how you routed the power cable from the 12v battery to the backseats?
Also, did you ground on the chassis?
What was your stock stereo setup; regular B&O or unleashed?

You want to run any aftermarket electronics ground to the battery, not on the chassis. While it might work, you're asking for trouble due to the high-resistance of the factory cab. These newer vehicles are basically glued together and do not offer a low enough resistance for sensitive aftermarket electronics.

 

[vagabond7846]

You want to run any aftermarket electronics ground to the battery, not on the chassis. While it might work, you're asking for trouble due to the high-resistance of the factory cab. These newer vehicles are basically glued together and do not offer a low enough resistance for sensitive aftermarket electronics.

It has been a while since I've installed car audio electronics, but I used to just run the power cable to the amp from the battery, and ground to the body. To be clear; you are saying I should run two cables to the battery?

Since the truck doesn't have an alternator, there must be a voltage-to-voltage converter somewhere that charges the 12v battery -- Does anyone have information on how much current we can pull before it starts over stressing the converter and/or the battery? I'm trying to understand how big of an amp I can use.

thanks,

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

It has been a while since I've installed car audio electronics, but I used to just run the power cable to the amp from the battery, and ground to the body. To be clear; you are saying I should run two cables to the battery?

Since the truck doesn't have an alternator, there must be a voltage-to-voltage converter somewhere that charges the 12v battery -- Does anyone have information on how much current we can pull before it starts over stressing the converter and/or the battery? I'm trying to understand how big of an amp I can use.

thanks,

Yes, power + ground to the 12v battery. The only reason to ground to the cab before was to save $$$$on copper wiring, just like the factory does. But until our aftermarket manufacturers offer a higher level of tolerance on the ground resistance, never assume you can have a good ground anymore except for the battery.

Regarding the converter, assume 100a which should be plenty of reserve for several thousand-watt stereo upgrades.

 

[Pioneer74]

Transforms the audio experience and doesn't interfere with under seat storage. Replaces the stock subwoofer. Power fed from 12v battery. It really is amazing bang for buck. The sub output level control is installed on the steering wheel column. I highly recommend this solution to anyone wanting to improve the audio experience with minimal work.

I was doing some research, and I was wondering if you saw this JL Audio sealed 10" powered sub, which has almost the same dimentions, and why you wouldn't have gone with it? There is a guy on the Mach=-E forum that loves this sub in his car, and I was thinking about putting one in both our Mach-E and Lightning.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693334/JL-Audio-ACS110LG-TW1.html

 

[BennyTheBeaver]

I was doing some research, and I was wondering if you saw this JL Audio sealed 10" powered sub, which has almost the same dimentions, and why you wouldn't have gone with it? There is a guy on the Mach=-E forum that loves this sub in his car, and I was thinking about putting one in both our Mach-E and Lightning.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693334/JL-Audio-ACS110LG-TW1.html

I'm also considering the MicroSub option. My initial thoughts is the power draw difference, that would lead me to lean towards the 8". The 10" might also be overpowering...

 

[Pioneer74]

I'm also considering the MicroSub option. My initial thoughts is the power draw difference, that would lead me to lean towards the 8". The 10" might also be overpowering...

With the dial adjustment, I would rather have too much than not enough. It can always be turned down.

 

[BennyTheBeaver]

With the dial adjustment, I would rather have too much than not enough. It can always be turned down.

Wouldn't it have a higher RMS wattage though? Maybe I'm just hyperparanoid about the LVB with all the issues people seem to have with the LVB system.

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