Agree... but I note there'll be two separated attachment points rather than one such point. Especially with a More Power Puller come-along and snatch pulleys, and if the other vehicle or my Lightning is (are) pulled at a horizontal angle. Distribution of force instead of its concentration is...
Per an extract from my earlier post here, this is why:
"...there are perfectly fine aftermarket 2-inch hitch receiver inserts with a shackle instead of a tow ball to give our Lightnings one solid recovery anchor point in the rear. I just know from other past experiences that when towing...
^^^ This ^^^
Hardwiring is always safer for EVSEs... assuming the wall wire is of an appropriate gage. If You have to replace the wire, a thicker gage than the minimum accepted by code is always better for these high continuous loads.
Sandy Munro has one entire episode (on YouTube) about the...
I use Powerbuilt's Billy Club Universal Lug Wrench... had it since the late 1990s. Fits every car I've had since - it has four lug adapters stored within its handles. IMHO it's the last lug wrench / breaker bar you'll ever need.
It does just fine torquing the Lightning's lugs to 150 lb feet...
Awesome I just found it. I had actually never gone into that FORScan button in the 8 or 9 years of my FORScan use haha.
Self-explanatory I assume? No weird tricks?
Agree... control modules are likely practically the same across Ford product lines.
I know that some are (were?) made by Research In Motion, the old Blackberry manufacturer.
An old, old pickup truck trick = keeping a 2 x 2 square of 3/4 inch plywood in the bed, as a wide slip-resistant base for just this type of use. The plywood could well be scrap plywood that many of us have. It spreads the weight of even a loaded truck bed very well over soft ground, even sand...
Turkish firms do a lot of licensed production as subs to German industry. Don't know if that's the case here (i.e. Bosch) but I wouldn't be surprised. Turkish higher-end manufacturing is pretty reliable these days.
Not a bad idea. Thanks!
Alternately, get a junked Tremor bar and have a welder cut the loops off and weld them onto my Lightning bar.
Either way, same result.
Now this project'll depend on which used bar I get for the lowest price :wink:
For what it's worth and after doing some hands-on research, I am convinced that either the late-model Raptor rear bumper horizontal hitch draw bar or the late model Tremor rear bumper horizontal hitch draw bar would work on our Lightnings. Both these horizontal bars with OEM welded-on tow loops...
Great idea IMHO. I see two groups of problems though:
1). Someone would have to pay for all this. Dealerships get capital by sales of durable goods (vehicles) and by after-sale longer term services, i.e an imperfect yet mostly functional version of "customer capture", reinforced by the...