Arizona 2023 F150 Lightning Platinum needs tail light driver side replacement

[JL13]

Can't figure how to post a pic from my phone yet, but I bought NL34'-138504-BG.
It's the whole unit with sensor.

The tail light assembly is actually a full LED tail lights with some electronic circuitry inside to provide the regular parking LED light working when the headlights are turned on, but also the brighter LED light used for braking and turn signal indicator. At the bottom of the tail light assembly there is a cavity where the BLIS radar sensor sits. My new Ford tail light part number is: NL3Z-13405-H (no BLIS radar module included) for the driver side tail light.
My original tail light part number was: NL34-13B505-BF.

I hope that your $15.00 dongle will work for you; according to some users of the cheap dongles are not reliable enough especially for attempting to reprogram a module.... Hopefully you will be able to read the DTC codes and clear them....

I myself still attempting to learn how to use Forscan tool when I need it.... I have checked for the DTC codes and cleared them successfully to make sure that the truck is working correctly; but I have not tried to reprogram or modify any modules at all by concern of messing up some stuff especially while the truck is still under warranty coverage from Ford.

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[Denbo]

Yeah, I struggled with matching the part number. Dealers estimate included seperate part numbers for the tail light, sensor and bracket that didn't match up with what anyone was selling. So I pulled out the broken one and matched the part number on mine with the one I bought. Exact match, and I made sure it included the sensor before I bought it.
Hopefully my cheapo donigle works. .in the meantime, I'm going to look for a "friend" who already has the Forscan set up. Anyone around Richmond, VA want to be my friend?🫠

 

[Denbo]

So, I received the Forscan Tool. But, I'm getting cold feet moving forward and trying to reset the codes myself. It is my understanding that tampering with the codes will null and void my warranty. Does anyone have intel on that? I'm trying to get the dealer to respond to me on what it would cost for them to do it for me. Haven't heard from them yet. Has any one gone that route and remember what that cost? Thanks

 

[JL13]

It won't cause any issue just READING the codes if there are any..... and chances are that some codes will be there since you have a nonfunctioning blind spot system. Make a copy of these codes to look for your own knowledge by searching on the internet for a possible cause for the DTC issue that you are seeing.
In case your system just needs a reset to clear things up and start to work ok for you, then you're good to go.
If it is a persistent fault is still there after trying to reset the code(s) it will require more detailed troubleshooting from the dealership....
Whatever this work will be covered under warranty or not might be up for debate since your blindspot system failed following your trailer jackknife incident and the replacement of a damaged tail light with an out of warranty previously owned unit.
In my case, I replaced my damaged tail light unit with a brand new one from Ford which is covered under warranty for 2 years from the date of purchase.

 

[Denbo]

Okay,
This is FYI. I indeed bought the dongle, but started to get cold feet with concerns of downloading software onto my computer, going into my truck and potentially making matters worse, fears of warranty breach, and spending a lot of time in the process. So, I called my dealer and he told me it would cost $175 to go in and reset the codes. I took my truck in, turns out they said the BLIS module had water in it (Not sure how they figured that out??) and replaced the BLIS with the new one that came with my new tail light. Cost me $265. And all is well, thusfar. So, instead of costing me $3500, the replacement lense with BLIS cost me $750 and the reset cost me $265. Only cost me $1000. I'll take it. Thanks to all who coached me through this. Most important lessoned learned, DON'T JACK-KNIFE YOUR TRUCK, NUMBSKULL!
-D

 

[JL13]

Okay,
This is FYI. I indeed bought the dongle, but started to get cold feet with concerns of downloading software onto my computer, going into my truck and potentially making matters worse, fears of warranty breach, and spending a lot of time in the process. So, I called my dealer and he told me it would cost $175 to go in and reset the codes. I took my truck in, turns out they said the BLIS module had water in it (Not sure how they figured that out??) and replaced the BLIS with the new one that came with my new tail light. Cost me $265. And all is well, thusfar. So, instead of costing me $3500, the replacement lense with BLIS cost me $750 and the reset cost me $265. Only cost me $1000. I'll take it. Thanks to all who coached me through this. Most important lessoned learned, DON'T JACK-KNIFE YOUR TRUCK, NUMBSKULL!
-D

Glad to hear that you have your truck in working order now.....
At the end of the day; make sure that you don't damage anything on these trucks, it can certainly add up and get very expensive quickly especially with the tail lights.... Whatever it's a trailer jackknife or backing up into one of these intercom boxes at a gated community, the tail light lenses are very fragile and any cracks in the lense can allow moisture to accumulate into the electronics circuitry ...... Electronics and water are not a good mix; it can cause some serious damages....

I'm extra careful when I backup my truck in tight parking spaces, and if I'm not 100% percent sure of what the cameras are showing me, I take the time to stop and get out of the truck then visually inspect the surroundings to make sure that the clearance will be there to continue my maneuver.

Still love that truck and enjoy every single minutes of every rides.... Happy trucking Dennis!

 

[rockery]

Great information here. I, too, have cracked my passenger side rear tail light and would like to repir it. But first I need to remove it. Anyone know how to pull it out after removing the two screws located just inside the tail gate? I think there are clips/pins holding it in but I want to be sure before applying force. I searched the forum and could not find this info.

 

[mrau]

If you search YouTube for a "Swing Case Install Ford" they should show how to remove taillight.

After removing bolts believe it is straight back pull and then a bit to the outside. Been a while since I did it. They are a snug fit.

 

[bmwhitetx]

Great information here. I, too, have cracked my passenger side rear tail light and would like to repir it. But first I need to remove it. Anyone know how to pull it out after removing the two screws located just inside the tail gate? I think there are clips/pins holding it in but I want to be sure before applying force. I searched the forum and could not find this info.

Yep, just pull straight back and slightly out after removing the two bolts.

If by repairing it yourself, you plan to further disassemble, please post pics on that. I had a tiny crack in my passenger lens. Thought about disassembling the lens and patching the crack but ended just buying a new tail light. Still have the old one I would like to repair as another backup. But the disassembly looked a little daunting.

 

[rockery]

Thanks for the info. It popped right out, as described. I attempted to take it apart, hoping that the screws I removed would allow the taillight interior and exterior to be separated to gain access to all of the guts. Alas, it appears that the entire thing except for the radar module is fused together. So I did my best to re-align the cracked areas and glue them back together.

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