Adding sub to base pro (no B&O) - where to tap high level speaker lines

[nauticalx]

Adding it behind the rear seat. Does anyone know where I can tap into high level speaker leads and what wire colors they are? Thanks!

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[SoundsGoodStereo]

If you are only adding a subwoofer, you will need to use a Kicker KeyLOC to analyze the factory signal and restore the low frequencies properly.

For the grabbing of the signal, you will utilize a T-Harness that connects to the ACM in the dash and feed that to the Kicker KeyLOC and then to your new amplifier.

 

[BennyTheBeaver]

If you are only adding a subwoofer, you will need to use a Kicker KeyLOC to analyze the factory signal and restore the low frequencies properly.

For the grabbing of the signal, you will utilize a T-Harness that connects to the ACM in the dash and feed that to the Kicker KeyLOC and then to your new amplifier.

FYI.

A Kicker KeyLoc did not correctly remedy bass roll off for me. My sub is very loud/boomy at low volumes and quieter at higher volumes. A workaround, so far, is utilizing the volume knob on the sub. Others have recommended a LC2i Pro which has an AccuBass feature designed for Bass roll off remediation. If I did it again, I would get that device.

I used a harness to grab the speaker levels from my head unit just as described here. I also verified all wiring and proper grounding.

 

[nauticalx]

The kicker 11hs8 i have has hi speaker level inputs. if i wire those to the appropriate leads for the front 2 speakers at the acm, and adjust gain on the sub and in the audio settings, would that suffice?

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

FYI.

A Kicker KeyLoc did not correctly remedy bass roll off for me. My sub is very loud/boomy at low volumes and quieter at higher volumes. A workaround, so far, is utilizing the volume knob on the sub. Others have recommended a LC2i Pro which has an AccuBass feature designed for Bass roll off remediation. If I did it again, I would get that device.

I used a harness to grab the speaker levels from my head unit just as described here. I also verified all wiring and proper grounding.

Yes, nothing will fix the bass roll-off if you are using the factory subwoofer signal. The roll-off is coded into the amplifier and no device can distinguish between music going down in volume and the coded amplifier pulling down the music.

If you use the factory subwoofer signal, everything is a band-aid.

The proper way is to utilize the KeyLOC or a Key Amplifier attached to the front speakers. Since the front speakers have a different EQ curve, the B&O has All-Pass filters, the KeyLOC is the only integration device that properly analyzes this and corrects it.

But you have to set the KeyLOC properly and having a RTA on hand is important. We recommend setting the KeyLOC at volume 14 on the F-Series trucks. If you go beyond 18, the KeyLOC will not program properly due to the clipping on certain frequencies.

The kicker 11hs8 i have has hi speaker level inputs. if i wire those to the appropriate leads for the front 2 speakers at the acm, and adjust gain on the sub and in the audio settings, would that suffice?

Yes, but the interior speakers do not have alot of subwoofer information. So the HS11 amplifier needs something to amplify... That's why you have to use a Kicker KeyLOC to fix this signal before it's amplified.

 

[BennyTheBeaver]

Yes, nothing will fix the bass roll-off if you are using the factory subwoofer signal. The roll-off is coded into the amplifier and no device can distinguish between music going down in volume and the coded amplifier pulling down the music.

If you use the factory subwoofer signal, everything is a band-aid.

The proper way is to utilize the KeyLOC or a Key Amplifier attached to the front speakers. Since the front speakers have a different EQ curve, the B&O has All-Pass filters, the KeyLOC is the only integration device that properly analyzes this and corrects it.

But you have to set the KeyLOC properly and having a RTA on hand is important. We recommend setting the KeyLOC at volume 14 on the F-Series trucks. If you go beyond 18, the KeyLOC will not program properly due to the clipping on certain frequencies.




Yes, but the interior speakers do not have alot of subwoofer information. So the HS11 amplifier needs something to amplify... That's why you have to use a Kicker KeyLOC to fix this signal before it's amplified.

I'm not using a subwoofer signal. The KeyLoc is tied to the highs from the Front Speaker. I have the non-BO on my Pro Lightning. The AccuBass feature/dials on the LC2i Pro allows you to set a threshold for when the bass starts rolling off. The KeyLoc is missing that.

I was just pointing it out as I have the same setup the OP is describing wanting to do and the KeyLoc has been disappointing as it doesn't provide a bass solution linear to the other speakers when the volume is adjusted.

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

I'm not using a subwoofer signal. The KeyLoc is tied to the highs from the Front Speaker. I have the non-BO on my Pro Lightning. The AccuBass feature/dials on the LC2i Pro allows you to set a threshold for when the bass starts rolling off. The KeyLoc is missing that.

I was just pointing it out as I have the same setup the OP is describing wanting to do and the KeyLoc has been disappointing as it doesn't provide a bass solution linear to the other speakers when the volume is adjusted.

Got it, so the front doors do not have a "Roll-Off", but rather a crossover that protects the speakers. The KeyLOC programmed at volume 14 on the radio, along with the gains on the amplifier set properly (Test tool, not by ear), it will create a linear response. If you have too much bass on the bottom end, the gains on the amplifier are not set correctly.

The Accubass is not for this scenario. The two options on the non-amplified are the Kicker KeyLOC and the JL Audio Fix. These both require a setup test track to analyze the factory crossover and correct it. But you have to do it at low volume so it does not clip in the higher frequencies.

We specialize in these trucks and ship plug-and-play packages around the world. Even in our $20K package for the non-amplified, we still use the Kicker KeyLOC since it's the best option for these trucks. That's how I know so much about the signal and what works and what's proper. We tune/setup around 5 F-Series trucks a day.

 

[BennyTheBeaver]

Got it, so the front doors do not have a "Roll-Off", but rather a crossover that protects the speakers. The KeyLOC programmed at volume 14 on the radio, along with the gains on the amplifier set properly (Test tool, not by ear), it will create a linear response. If you have too much bass on the bottom end, the gains on the amplifier are not set correctly.

The Accubass is not for this scenario. The two options on the non-amplified are the Kicker KeyLOC and the JL Audio Fix. These both require a setup test track to analyze the factory crossover and correct it. But you have to do it at low volume so it does not clip in the higher frequencies.

We specialize in these trucks and ship plug-and-play packages around the world. Even in our $20K package for the non-amplified, we still use the Kicker KeyLOC since it's the best option for these trucks. That's how I know so much about the signal and what works and what's proper. We tune/setup around 5 F-Series trucks a day.

I will run through the setup again at 14. Hopefully that solves that issue. It definitely seems like a roll off issue instead of a crossover issue as at low volumes the bass output is higher and it seems to attenuate in a linear fashion to the volume. I will say however, you do have the expertise and experience so I am inclined to believe you.

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

I will run through the setup again at 14. Hopefully that solves that issue. It definitely seems like a roll off issue instead of a crossover issue as at low volumes the bass output is higher and it seems to attenuate in a linear fashion to the volume. I will say however, you do have the expertise and experience so I am inclined to believe you.

Got it, could be acoustical problems... As volume increases you could have standing waves that expose themselves as volume goes up. If this is the case, changing the placement of the vent could help resolve this. If a sealed enclosure, placement of the subwoofer itself might help.


Just a thought

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