Bandit216
Well-known member
Yes, that is the app. 'Car Scanner' already has all the Lightning (and Mach E) data points broken out and you can easily build any display screens you want. This is one OBD reader that works with the 'Car Scanner' App:Awesome - what app specifically are you using for this? It looks like, from the icon, that its this one.
Also, what scanner do you recommend? Would love to have this capability. Thanks.
https://a.co/d/3WfC9uy
NEXAS NexLink OBD2 Scanner Bluetooth 5.0 for Car and Motorcycle, Upgrade Car Code Reader Scanner OBDII Diagnostic Tool with Battery Test Check Engine Light for iPhone, Android & Windows
I found that running Car Scanner on my phone and trying to read the data while driving to be unsafe. So to display the Car Scanner app on the Sync 4a screen, I don't use my phone. I run the Car Scanner App from a stand alone CarPlay Device that I always keep plugged into the USB device under the Sync Screen. You connect the OBD device to a USB stand alone Carplay device like this:
https://a.co/d/gd9Un1W
2023 Carlinkit Mini ai Box Android 11 Wireless Adapter 3 in 1 for OEM Wired Carplay to Upgrade Carplay/Android Auto Wireless 3+32 4 core Without delay Plug & Play Support Netflix/YouTube
I leave the obd and Carlinkit devices always plugged in. You start the car and go. Once you set the correct defaults, everything will load and auto start by just selecting the Car Scanner app on the CarPlay screens that automatically load from the Carlinkit device. Sounds complicated, but actually easy. I pay for the ATT hotspot and have the Carlinkit device automatically connect to the Hotspot on startup. The hotspot isn't necessary to use the 'Car Scanner' App but it is great for all the other apps you might want to run - like streaming SiriusXM, which isn't available on satellite here. My phone just stays in my pocket.
As much as I love my Mach E and my Lightning, I simply do not understand why Ford does not put the actual battery kWh (or charge % number on the drivers display. There is no surer way to know your exact range remaining than multiplying the available battery kWh by the mi/kWh you are getting at a specific moment.
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