Having issues with the onboard power

[Azgunguy]

I have the 2.4kw system, and was successful in installing a generator transfer switch with a neutral switching ez transfer switch to a generator transfer panel. It was working great shortly after I installed it, and I needed it the other night as my house batteries were drawn dead (I live off grid). Which is not an often occurrence so I’ve only needed this system once. Anyways! I can’t figure out why it was working there and it’s not working now. The only things I can think of is some update that the lightning did, or me futzing with forscan when I was putting in the trailer brake controller. And when I installed the trailer brake controller the only values I messed with were the trailer values. Any ideas would greatly be appreciated.

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[chl]

I have the 2.4kw system, and was successful in installing a generator transfer switch with a neutral switching ez transfer switch to a generator transfer panel. It was working great shortly after I installed it, and I needed it the other night as my house batteries were drawn dead (I live off grid). Which is not an often occurrence so I’ve only needed this system once. Anyways! I can’t figure out why it was working there and it’s not working now. The only things I can think of is some update that the lightning did, or me futzing with forscan when I was putting in the trailer brake controller. And when I installed the trailer brake controller the only values I messed with were the trailer values. Any ideas would greatly be appreciated.

I notice there is a 15A(?) reset breaker button on the EZ Generator Switch.
Does it need to be "reset" I wonder?
Perhaps the load drew too much current for the EZ switch reset breaker?
The EZ swtich seems to be rated for 125V 15A.

Another thought: The Lightning may limit the available ProPower on-board depending on the state of the HV battery and the settings in the ProPower menu.
There are various YouTube videos about how to set the ProPower on-baord via the truck menu.

I guess a question I have is why did you add the EX Switch to the Nature's Generator Power Transfer Switch Kit which usually comes with a receptacle for plugging in a source generator?

I note that the Nature's Generator Power Transfer Switch Kit is also limited to 15A.

So if you are trying to draw more than 15A, the set up won't work.

Note that start-up currents on things with motors/compressors, like refrigerators and furnace blower motors is larger than their running current. So starting them one at a time might prevent overloading the 15A breakers in the set up.

Good luck.

 

[chl]

PS: From EZ Generator Switch web site:

Each application is different. You need to determine what is essential and the total running amps or wattage of each circuit. Then, it is just simple math to determine your generator size: 120 volts x ampere rating listed = wattage.

We add 125% for motor start up, this is the initial draw your generator will see:
Example:

120 volts x 3 amps (listed on nameplate of motor) = 360 watts running power.

125% x 360 watts = 450 watts.

Add the original 360 watts plus 450 watts = 810 watts of startup power.

 

[Maquis]

Hard to help without more details. What’s the state of the truck (SoC, “On” state, etc), any error messages, any lights, does plugging something directly into the truck work?

 

[Azgunguy]

I notice there is a 15A(?) reset breaker button on the EZ Generator Switch.
Does it need to be "reset" I wonder?
Perhaps the load drew too much current for the EZ switch reset breaker?
The EZ swtich seems to be rated for 125V 15A.

Another thought: The Lightning may limit the available ProPower on-board depending on the state of the HV battery and the settings in the ProPower menu.
There are various YouTube videos about how to set the ProPower on-baord via the truck menu.

I guess a question I have is why did you add the EX Switch to the Nature's Generator Power Transfer Switch Kit which usually comes with a receptacle for plugging in a source generator?

I note that the Nature's Generator Power Transfer Switch Kit is also limited to 15A.

So if you are trying to draw more than 15A, the set up won't work.

Note that start-up currents on things with motors/compressors, like refrigerators and furnace blower motors is larger than their running current. So starting them one at a time might prevent overloading the 15A breakers in the set up.

Good luck.

So like I said, it worked fine at one point. The EZ switch is to deal with the bonded neutral issue. I’m very familiar with the system and installed it myself. I’ve broken it down to just trying to power 1 lamp with this system. My battery’s SOC is like 65%. I’ve checked every parameter I can to figure out what’s going on. Nothings overloading the system. I’ve shut off all power to my house and I can’t figure it out.

 

[Azgunguy]

Hard to help without more details. What’s the state of the truck (SoC, “On” state, etc), any error messages, any lights, does plugging something directly into the truck work?

The outlets and truck are functioning as normal. Everything is gravy there. Trucks SOC is 60%+ and the battery reserve is set to like 10 miles

 

[chl]

So like I said, it worked fine at one point. The EZ switch is to deal with the bonded neutral issue. I’m very familiar with the system and installed it myself. I’ve broken it down to just trying to power 1 lamp with this system. My battery’s SOC is like 65%. I’ve checked every parameter I can to figure out what’s going on. Nothings overloading the system. I’ve shut off all power to my house and I can’t figure it out.

Bonded neutral - right.

So might be time for some AC voltage checks if you have a multimeter.
Check the AC from the truck through the circuitry starting with the EZ switch.
Obviously when you find a place with no 120VAC, the thing before it is the problem.

For example, if there is 120VAC coming out of the EZ switch then it is not the problem, if not then it is.

To do that you have to have the power applied from the truck to the EZ switch with covers opened so obviously be careful wear insulated gloves etc.

 

[chl]

PS: I'd suspect a breaker or broken wire somewhere between the EZ switch input and the house.
I assume you switched all the necessary breakers on and the rocker switches (from L to G) in the Natures Generator.

 

[chl]

Does that EZ Gen Switch and Nature's Generator Transfer Switch set up work with your battery / inverter system, but not with the Lightning?
Do you have solar to charge the battery system?
Where inside the house are the neutrals bonded? Is there another breaker panel somewhere?
Just wondering how it is all configured since you are off grid.

It looks like the cord from the lightning is providing power to the Nature's Generator Transfer Switch through the EZ Gen Switch since it appears the toggle switches are illuminated (green).
In that case, the problem is either inside the NGTS (breakers off or loose/disconnected wiring?) or upstream from it.

The load hot and neutral wires should be continuous all the way back to the lightning input at the EZ Gen Switch, check each leg for VAC and at all the connections to locate the break in the circuits.

 

[Azgunguy]

Does that EZ Gen Switch and Nature's Generator Transfer Switch set up work with your battery / inverter system, but not with the Lightning?
Do you have solar to charge the battery system?
Where inside the house are the neutrals bonded? Is there another breaker panel somewhere?
Just wondering how it is all configured since you are off grid.

It looks like the cord from the lightning is providing power to the Nature's Generator Transfer Switch through the EZ Gen Switch since it appears the toggle switches are illuminated (green).
In that case, the problem is either inside the NGTS (breakers off or loose/disconnected wiring?) or upstream from it.

The load hot and neutral wires should be continuous all the way back to the lightning input at the EZ Gen Switch, check each leg for VAC and at all the connections to locate the break in the circuits.

I should note that the picture is just for reference when it was working. Nothing has changed in my electrical system to my knowledge. I tested it with my gas generator and that didnt work either. So somewhere in my house on one of those circuits, I’m having a ground fault of some sort, or something with the neutral is screwing up

 

[hturnerfamily]

would the 'no more battery power' from your house batteries be effecting the system from accepting the incoming power from the truck? is there any switch connection between the house battery system output and the main panel that is interrupting the incoming power?

is the truck GFCI tripping? Ground Fault shutting down the ProPower?
have you tried plugging something in directly to the truck to test it's output?

 

[hturnerfamily]

Another thought: The Lightning may limit the available ProPower on-board depending on the state of the HV battery and the settings in the ProPower menu...

I'm not aware that the Lightning is designed to 'limit' any amperage output from ProPower just because of the state of the battery pack - it only limits the number of 'miles' left before it completely disables ProPower, such as '10 miles', etc.

The Lightning has 20amp 120v output from any of the outlets, or 20amps from all outlets, combined.

The setup originally worked. I suspect that the 'dead house batteries' has caused some type of switch or interruption with his 'off grid' system. Even though incoming Utility or ProPower would seem to power the main panel, or the sub-panel, regardless, there could be some type of interruption between the house batteries, their inverter system, and the main panel, or it's own sub-panel, etc.
SOLAR and off-grid systems can have a myriad of devices, connections, switches, and buffers that are designed to 'control' the power, incoming from the Solar system, the house batteries, and the 120v/240v Inverter, to the house's electrical system.

 

[Azgunguy]

I'm not aware that the Lightning is designed to 'limit' any amperage output from ProPower just because of the state of the battery pack - it only limits the number of 'miles' left before it completely disables ProPower, such as '10 miles', etc.

The Lightning has 20amp 120v output from any of the outlets, or 20amps from all outlets, combined.

The setup originally worked. I suspect that the 'dead house batteries' has caused some type of switch or interruption with his 'off grid' system. Even though incoming Utility or ProPower would seem to power the main panel, or the sub-panel, regardless, there could be some type of interruption between the house batteries, their inverter system, and the main panel, or it's own sub-panel, etc.
SOLAR and off-grid systems can have a myriad of devices, connections, switches, and buffers that are designed to 'control' the power, incoming from the Solar system, the house batteries, and the 120v/240v Inverter, to the house's electrical system.

So regardless of the state of charge of my house batteries, I’m having this issue. The trucks system is functioning as normal with whatever I plug into it. It’s only tripping that outlets GFCI (whichever I’m using on the truck). I’m going to have to unplug all appliances on all 4 of the circuits and see if maybe it’s something that’s currently plugged in? On those 4 circuits I’m using way less than 15a combined. It’s something down stream of my sub panel in my house.

 

[chl]

I should note that the picture is just for reference when it was working. Nothing has changed in my electrical system to my knowledge. I tested it with my gas generator and that didnt work either. So somewhere in my house on one of those circuits, I’m having a ground fault of some sort, or something with the neutral is screwing up

I was thinking maybe you have a miswired neutral somewhere so that the neutral from the generator/lightning is not continuous through the set up.

 

[chl]

So regardless of the state of charge of my house batteries, I’m having this issue. The trucks system is functioning as normal with whatever I plug into it. It’s only tripping that outlets GFCI (whichever I’m using on the truck). I’m going to have to unplug all appliances on all 4 of the circuits and see if maybe it’s something that’s currently plugged in? On those 4 circuits I’m using way less than 15a combined. It’s something down stream of my sub panel in my house.

oh it's tripping the gfci so you have a grounded neutral somewhere in your system.

If you are using a bonded (grounded neutral) source, like the Lightning, you need to lift the ground on the neutral(s) in the load panel being fed by the bonded source (unbond the neutrals) or else you have a second current path for the neutral "return current" which will be detected by the GFCI circuit and it will open.

So I don't think your EZ switch is wired to the system correctly because if it were, it would essentially lift the second ground from the neutrals (switch from panel neutrals to generator/lightning neutrals) and you would not get a GFCI trip.

All of your house neutrals have to be wired to the EZ switch load neutral instead of being wired to any bonded neutral bus in the house panel.

The EZ switch has terminals for the neutrals from the line, the generator and output to the load neutrals (house circuit neutrals) as well as for the hots.

So inside your panel, all the neutrals from the load circuits need to be connected to the EZ switch neutral load terminal and not grounded inside the panel anywhere. When the switch is in the line position the neutrals will be bonded by the line neutral (the utility neutral which is bonded by the main panel), and when in the generator position the neutrals are bonded by the generator/Lightning.

If you have no utility and only use a generator and the lightning, then there is no "LINE" neutral in the main panel.

However, without a complete diagram of how you wired the EZ switch to the house panel and all the other wiring details, it is hard to be sure, but that is my guess.

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