Installed Generac Transfer Switch and still getting ground fault

[Runaway Tractor]

Disconnecting the ground at the generator inlet is the tactic for installations without a neutral isolating subpanel (such as a UL listed interlocking backfeed breaker). The subpanel the OP is installing mitigates the need for this. Yes the ground from the truck should be connected. Yes the neutral from the truck needs to be connected.

I think so many of us have realized that the GROUND wire is the issue... even though having the ground, or not, is likely neither here nor there. Sure, a ground is 'nice', but it is NOT always necessary. Ground is not the be all end all to everything electrical. We went many many years without a ground in our homes.

Neutrals are similar. You'll notice that your EVSE does NOT require, or even have, a Neutral - it is only two hots and a ground. The Neutral is for load balancing, but there is no 'balancing' required for a device that draws the exact same amount from both hot wires.
A NEMA 14-50 outlet has a GROUND prong, yes, BY DEFAULT. It is because it can be used in many various scenarios where a Neutral IS needed, such as your oven / stove, or a motorhome / camper, where both hot wires are NOT necessarily having the same draw of power.
Many of your household appliances, bathroom appliances, and devices do NOT have a ground. Why? It's not needed.

Electricity seems to be kin to the English language: Many 'facts' and 'rules' don't always necessarily apply to every situation.
- "I" before "E", yes, mostly, but NOT always. etc.
- Pronounce a differently spelled word the same as another, yes... interesting.
- use a word two different ways to have two different meanings.

For everyone else reading, please ignore all of this rambling nonsense. That's not how any of this works. This is something that would be in a satirical meme on a electrical hacks facebook group.

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[Henry Ford]

Already done and works fine. If the ground was attached then the GFCI would trip on the truck

This is because you have ground touching neutral o n at least one circuit within the switching panel. I went through the same thing except I took the time to identify the problem.

What you have done works but when you give this advice online you should post a disclaimer that you have disabled the GFCI function of the truck.

I'm not sure why you went through the expense of a neutral switching panel if you disabled the whole purpose of the switch. Finding the ground fault is not that difficult. I laid out the steps above. I suggest going through them in order to get full capability of your truck.

 

[Danface]

This is because you have ground touching neutral o n at least one circuit within the switching panel. I went through the same thing except I took the time to identify the problem.

What you have done works but when you give this advice online you should post a disclaimer that you have disabled the GFCI function of the truck.

I'm not sure why you went through the expense of a neutral switching panel if you disabled the whole purpose of the switch. Finding the ground fault is not that difficult. I laid out the steps above. I suggest going through them in order to get full capability of your truck.

Agree, about the disclaimer, me bad and will keep that in mind in the future.

I used a lockout so all circuits still have a path to ground. The picture is of the generator plug from the truck to the panel and any ground fault would still trip the GFCI breakers, just not the GFCI on the truck. The 200 amp panel is new, almost all the circuits in the house and up to code for wet locations (including the outlet near the back door that could get wet if the dog shakes off) and everything that needs GFCI protection has it so, in this case, I feel comfortable relying with the way it's setup.

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