Max trailer towing capacity PB Limited

[rucus0101]

Matt:

Texas = Toyota, good guess?

Tim

Not sure what the point you are trying to make here is. I have owned several dozen vehicles and no I have never owned a Toyota truck but they work pretty much the same way. There are plenty of places you can go find information on how to tow safely and properly calculate your capacities. I would suggest you go look and educate yourself. You asked a question I answered and you began insulting me so I will no longer be contributing to this thread.

Sponsored

 

[daemonic3]

Regardless of tow (pull) capacity, @rucus0101 is referring to Payload, which is also what you were summing up. Payload says in the yellow sticker that is it unloaded (no people). BUT it will include a full tank of gas.

So he is right about the true capability being: Payload_Sticker - Trailer_hitch_weight_at_ball - WDH_weight. That is what is available to put people and cargo in the truck.

When I did my calcs when I bought my XLT in 2017, I (ignorantly) used the dry hitch weight of my trailer (I thought they gave it loaded like the GVWR) so I am over my payload on my current setup. So I'm beefing up the trailer suspension/axles, shedding my addons on the truck, and moving some weight to behind the axles of my trailer. Payload is brutal on these things! Which is why a superduty is by far more appropriate if you are ok with the size of it for parking, and it being your everyday driving vehicle when not towing.

 

[Roger350]

Happy to offer up my experience. I have a Featherlite 20' 4916 enclosed aluminum trailer (7" inside, GVWR 9600#, 16" load range E tires, 4.8k# axles). It weighed 3200# empty including spare tire. The car weighs 3550# and in total the trailer with spare tires, tools, built in cabinets, winch, compressor, generator, 55 qt cooler, etc including the car total weight is 8400#.
The aluminum trailer is only marginally lighter but will last forever and will not rust. Steel trailers are inexpensive but depreciate quickly due to rust.

Here are the important parts (2)
1. You need a weight distribution hitch. I got an Equalizer 12000 hitch to match the truck.

https://www.amazon.com/Equal-i-zer-4-point-90-00-1201-Distribution-Included/dp/B004TR8PU2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2XNU0W9NS4FAU&dchild=1&keywords=equalizer+hitch&qid=1607970700&sprefix=equalizer+hit,aps,181&sr=8-3

2. Invest the money in trailer tire pressure monitors. Trailer tires need to start at 80 PSI for my trailer and the TPM has been very useful in detecting slow leaks, etc.

Thanks for the insight Tim. I've had several camper friends tell me I'll need a weight distributing hitch. I almost added the trailer TPMS system to my truck order, but when I researched it I learned all they do is put the box with the accessories in the truck at the factory, and you still have to install it yourself or pay the dealer, so I figured I'd buy the system from a discount online Ford parts department and save some money.

What kind of race car are you hauling? I see you're from IL, I grew up in the NW Suburbs of Chicago, but I got to Texas as quick as I could

I'll keep following this thread for the conversation you are having with Matt to see what more I can learn.

Thanks,
Roger

 

[rcompound]

Thanks for the insight Tim. I've had several camper friends tell me I'll need a weight distributing hitch. I almost added the trailer TPMS system to my truck order, but when I researched it I learned all they do is put the box with the accessories in the truck at the factory, and you still have to install it yourself or pay the dealer, so I figured I'd buy the system from a discount online Ford parts department and save some money.

What kind of race car are you hauling? I see you're from IL, I grew up in the NW Suburbs of Chicago, but I got to Texas as quick as I could

I'll keep following this thread for the conversation you are having with Matt to see what more I can learn.

Thanks,
Roger

As to TPMS check this out:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009BFMH7Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The TPMS has been trouble free.

Matt is spot on based on what I can find on the internet. I was guessing he is an engineer from Toyota since he is from Texas and Toyota has truck plant and HQ there. I tried to pull up the SAE text but it is only available for purchase. That being said buying a truck without a double sunroof could buy some more payload capacity so I may move back to the Platinum w/o sunroof.

The nice thing about the Equalizer is that is weight distributing and anti-sway. Plus it is modular so it is adaptable to future configurations. My current hitch is a class III and the new truck will have a class IV. So rather that using a sleeve adapter I will get a class IV shank.

 

[kavm]

I was thinking that buying Trailer TPMS from Ford means one sees the TPMS readings and warnings on the console - rather than having another monitor for them. The Amazon listing TPMS seems to have its own monitor. Is that a correct understanding of the situation?

 

[daemonic3]

I was thinking that buying Trailer TPMS from Ford means one sees the TPMS readings and warnings on the console - rather than having another monitor for them. The Amazon listing TPMS seems to have its own monitor. Is that a correct understanding of the situation?

I believe that is correct! I would love to have it integrated into my dash, but I already have this one from Amazon and it works "fine" (see my gripe below). Also, I believe the Ford ones are inside the rim, not just on the stem caps, so you have to remove the wheels to install.

The original one I had, had trouble reaching from my trailer tires up to the cab, so I got one with a signal repeater. The repeater has to clip to a 12V DC source so my battery in the hitch area split the distance nicely. But I didn't want to clip/unclip it every time so I installed an external switch with LED onto the battery box itself. I just flip the switch to power the repeater when about to drive, so it doesn't drain my trailer batt when not in use.

Anyway, here is this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZZ2RCX7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are many like it on Amazon, I believe there must have been a reference design and then a bunch of chinese manufacturers made up brand names and packaged the tech all just slightly differently (as happens with many cheap electronics). This one works "flawlessly" but my gripe is that the display shows pressure by default and ONLY shows temperature when you push a button. I wanted both to display (like my previous one), or toggle every few seconds! Regardless, there are alarms if it gets too hot or loses pressure, I just want the quick visual status. I suppose if integrated in dash I would have to push a button anyway, so really it isn't a huge loss.

 

[currybob]

I found this video and thought it would fit here.

 

[BoilerTimmay]

I found this video and thought it would fit here.

That was a good watch.

Sponsored