Passenger side hinged faux charging port cover. Anyone making one?

[GarageMahal]

Definitely like the idea. Todays magnets are incredibly compact and strong. Might even be able to glue magnets inside the fender and have sufficient “attraction to keep the cover attached.

Don't forget that the body is aluminum so magnets won't stick.

Sponsored

 

[O’Majestic1’slightnigF150]

Yep. Thus the glue comment. Or maybe 3M double sided tape. If you look at the original post pictures there are “tabs” on the fender I should be able to glue magnets onto. I’ll probably have to remove the clip barbs on the cover but leave the rest of the clip as a guide.

 

[Saul Goodman]

So, I’m thinking the play here is to put your dewalt/milwaukee/etc battery charger in there. Make a little mount, surround, and voila. You have a ‘cordless truck’. It’s a stupid gag, but also could be an absolutely hilarious gag when you pop that cover and slap a battery in for people who ask how your truck works. Just leave the cord available to plug into your frunk outlet and you also still have a functional battery charger.
You could also find a busted tool and harvest the battery mount just for the sight gag.

 

[O’Majestic1’slightnigF150]

V1.0 is operational. I will take some pictures this weekend. Bought super strong magnets and gorilla glue from Amazon. Glued magnets in 4 places on the cover after grinding down the “catches” on the top two latch guides. I left the bottoms alone to help secure the cover and use gravity as an assist. Glued magnets to backside of 3 fender flanges, top, left and right. The top is extra wide so I spaced 2 magnets as far apart as possible. The top flange is also where the two latches are I ground off the catch parts. Not perfect, I need to recess the cover magnets their thickness and it should be as good as OEM on the fitment and seal. I can attest right now there’s no water leakage, and at max warp speed there’s no problems. (By the way the cover is a $325 part thru the dealer and has to come from Detroit.).

V2.0 will be to use magnets with countersunk holes instead of glue for the fender and countersink the cover magnets.

What did I do with the space? Also from Amazon, purchased Energizer 25 foot quick connect jumper cables, 5 foot quick connect with eyes (the 2 are a kit for $99), 1 can of flex seal. I strengthened the wheel well material (I did not think the fiber material could handle any direct weight) with 3 thick coats from inside, 1 can of flex seal, each coat applied 48 hours apart. I’m impressed how good the Flex Seal performed in this use case. I then ran the 5 foot quick connect cable, eyes first, thru the passenger side removed cover opening. Thru a fender gap, in front of the fuse box and over to the 12v battery. 5 feet is perfect, gives about a foot of cable outside of the fender area when connecting to the quick connect on the jumper cables. The 12v terminals have bolt studs already so I backed off the 10mm negative and 11mm positive nuts (I don’t know why they are different, but the nuts are not the same size) and put the factory eye loops from the 5 foot quick connect on the studs, replaced the nuts tucked the 25 foot quick connect with clamps into the fender cavity, put the cover on and now when I kill the 12v, I can still open the frunk to replace the 12v or just jump or charge using the cables I added.

Here’s a PSA. If you have not tried the manuel frunk opener on the drivers side foot area where the old school hood releases are, you need to. Mine clears the primary catch but not the secondary. No amount of jiggling or lifting can get the frunk open. (This is a known issue along with corroded strut connections.) But until I take the truck to the dealer for adjusting the manuel release, if I have a problem with the 12v, I can use the jumper cables to another external source to open the frunk.
PS. If the 12v dies and you can’t open the frunk with the manuel release. Good luck. I think there’s a destructive way you can get to the remote positive and negatives ford installed under the frunk on the passenger side but you will be buying some new parts for your truck.

 

[Firestop]

PS. If the 12v dies and you can’t open the frunk with the manuel release. Good luck. I think there’s a destructive way you can get to the remote positive and negatives ford installed under the frunk on the passenger side but you will be buying some new parts for your truck.

I’ll be interested to see how this design evolves. FWIW, you might consider editing this portion of your post after viewing the video attached to this thread: https://www.f150lightningforum.com/forum/threads/lightning-roadside-service-info.13032/

 

[O’Majestic1’slightnigF150]

I’m not sure what needs editing. If you can’t open the Frunk manually (like my truck and others have reported) to get to the jump points or 12v, what options remain. Other than slicing the front passenger fender well liner and hacking into the jump point cables.

 

[BennyTheBeaver]

I’m not sure what needs editing. If you can’t open the Frunk manually (like my truck and others have reported) to get to the jump points or 12v, what options remain. Other than slicing the front passenger fender well liner and hacking into the jump point cables.

The manual release doesn't work for you? I would take it to your dealer...

 

[F150Blue]

V1.0 is operational. I will take some pictures this weekend. Bought super strong magnets and gorilla glue from Amazon. Glued magnets in 4 places on the cover after grinding down the “catches” on the top two latch guides. I left the bottoms alone to help secure the cover and use gravity as an assist. Glued magnets to backside of 3 fender flanges, top, left and right. The top is extra wide so I spaced 2 magnets as far apart as possible. The top flange is also where the two latches are I ground off the catch parts. Not perfect, I need to recess the cover magnets their thickness and it should be as good as OEM on the fitment and seal. I can attest right now there’s no water leakage, and at max warp speed there’s no problems. (By the way the cover is a $325 part thru the dealer and has to come from Detroit.).

V2.0 will be to use magnets with countersunk holes instead of glue for the fender and countersink the cover magnets.

What did I do with the space? Also from Amazon, purchased Energizer 25 foot quick connect jumper cables, 5 foot quick connect with eyes (the 2 are a kit for $99), 1 can of flex seal. I strengthened the wheel well material (I did not think the fiber material could handle any direct weight) with 3 thick coats from inside, 1 can of flex seal, each coat applied 48 hours apart. I’m impressed how good the Flex Seal performed in this use case. I then ran the 5 foot quick connect cable, eyes first, thru the passenger side removed cover opening. Thru a fender gap, in front of the fuse box and over to the 12v battery. 5 feet is perfect, gives about a foot of cable outside of the fender area when connecting to the quick connect on the jumper cables. The 12v terminals have bolt studs already so I backed off the 10mm negative and 11mm positive nuts (I don’t know why they are different, but the nuts are not the same size) and put the factory eye loops from the 5 foot quick connect on the studs, replaced the nuts tucked the 25 foot quick connect with clamps into the fender cavity, put the cover on and now when I kill the 12v, I can still open the frunk to replace the 12v or just jump or charge using the cables I added.

Here’s a PSA. If you have not tried the manuel frunk opener on the drivers side foot area where the old school hood releases are, you need to. Mine clears the primary catch but not the secondary. No amount of jiggling or lifting can get the frunk open. (This is a known issue along with corroded strut connections.) But until I take the truck to the dealer for adjusting the manuel release, if I have a problem with the 12v, I can use the jumper cables to another external source to open the frunk.
PS. If the 12v dies and you can’t open the frunk with the manuel release. Good luck. I think there’s a destructive way you can get to the remote positive and negatives ford installed under the frunk on the passenger side but you will be buying some new parts for your truck.

Pictures please

 

[drewfaulk]

Pictures please

Would love to see this as well.

 

[ctuan13]

V1.0 is operational. I will take some pictures this weekend. Bought super strong magnets and gorilla glue from Amazon. Glued magnets in 4 places on the cover after grinding down the “catches” on the top two latch guides. I left the bottoms alone to help secure the cover and use gravity as an assist. Glued magnets to backside of 3 fender flanges, top, left and right. The top is extra wide so I spaced 2 magnets as far apart as possible. The top flange is also where the two latches are I ground off the catch parts. Not perfect, I need to recess the cover magnets their thickness and it should be as good as OEM on the fitment and seal. I can attest right now there’s no water leakage, and at max warp speed there’s no problems. (By the way the cover is a $325 part thru the dealer and has to come from Detroit.).

V2.0 will be to use magnets with countersunk holes instead of glue for the fender and countersink the cover magnets.

What did I do with the space? Also from Amazon, purchased Energizer 25 foot quick connect jumper cables, 5 foot quick connect with eyes (the 2 are a kit for $99), 1 can of flex seal. I strengthened the wheel well material (I did not think the fiber material could handle any direct weight) with 3 thick coats from inside, 1 can of flex seal, each coat applied 48 hours apart. I’m impressed how good the Flex Seal performed in this use case. I then ran the 5 foot quick connect cable, eyes first, thru the passenger side removed cover opening. Thru a fender gap, in front of the fuse box and over to the 12v battery. 5 feet is perfect, gives about a foot of cable outside of the fender area when connecting to the quick connect on the jumper cables. The 12v terminals have bolt studs already so I backed off the 10mm negative and 11mm positive nuts (I don’t know why they are different, but the nuts are not the same size) and put the factory eye loops from the 5 foot quick connect on the studs, replaced the nuts tucked the 25 foot quick connect with clamps into the fender cavity, put the cover on and now when I kill the 12v, I can still open the frunk to replace the 12v or just jump or charge using the cables I added.

Here’s a PSA. If you have not tried the manuel frunk opener on the drivers side foot area where the old school hood releases are, you need to. Mine clears the primary catch but not the secondary. No amount of jiggling or lifting can get the frunk open. (This is a known issue along with corroded strut connections.) But until I take the truck to the dealer for adjusting the manuel release, if I have a problem with the 12v, I can use the jumper cables to another external source to open the frunk.
PS. If the 12v dies and you can’t open the frunk with the manuel release. Good luck. I think there’s a destructive way you can get to the remote positive and negatives ford installed under the frunk on the passenger side but you will be buying some new parts for your truck.

I'm only just seeing this now but I'll add that for the manual, release for the hood to work, even if it doesn't feel like it, it needs to be pulled twice. If you only pull it once it'll do what you said and it won't clear the secondary latch.

Also as others have said, I'd love to see the finished product!

 

[O’Majestic1’slightnigF150]

Here are some pictures. I put some white paint on the magnets to help visibility. 7000 miles on the truck, 6k with this setup. Been thru rain and car washes of multiple styles with no issues. See previous posts for specs. I added Amp Powerstep XL’s this weekend and the electric connections at the 12v went right on top of the jumper cable.

 

[drewfaulk]

Here are some pictures. I put some white paint on the magnets to help visibility. 7000 miles on the truck, 6k with this setup. Been thru rain and car washes of multiple styles with no issues. See previous posts for specs. I added Amp Powerstep XL’s this weekend and the electric connections at the 12v went right on top of the jumper cable.

Cool idea. Thanks for sharing!