Powerboost 7.2kW Towing Travel Trailer - First hookup and test results

[MnTom]

I pulled my ProPower box out of the truck bed while installing a BedRug today. The box has an orange high voltage cable and a smaller black signal cable.

looking up from under the truck, the Orange cable has standard red, green, black, and white wires for 220 volt supplies.

Perhaps a waterproof marine junction box could be located in this space to tap the orange power feed with a 30 amp RV plug. This is under the truck and aft of the wheel well, a very short pigtail could locate the plug at the bumper. Qualified Electricians only!

On second thought, I opened up the power box.

It has a very conventional 220 Volt plug with screw terminals, and lots of open space. Simple s

olution may be a pigtail piggy backed on the screw terminals, exiting bottom of the box cover with a waterproof seal, and terminating with a 30 amp RV plug under the bumper.

 

[Bearii]

On second thought, I opened up the power box.

It has a very conventional 220 Volt plug with screw terminals, and lots of open space. Simple s

olution may be a pigtail piggy backed on the screw terminals, exiting bottom of the box cover with a waterproof seal, and terminating with a 30 amp RV plug under the bumper.

Ding, ding, ding... we have a winner! Thank you for diving into this. I like this approach. I have to travel for the next couple of weeks but when I get back I'm going to give this a shot!!!

 

[oldschool]

On second thought, I opened up the power box.

It has a very conventional 220 Volt plug with screw terminals, and lots of open space. Simple s

olution may be a pigtail piggy backed on the screw terminals, exiting bottom of the box cover with a waterproof seal, and terminating with a 30 amp RV plug under the bumper.

Thank you for showing us inside Pandora's box. Always exciting to see details like this.

 

[Rich55Marshall]

daemonic3, my impression is there's no widely accepted view on whether a TV's anti-sway system should be disabled, which is why I'm asking what you folks' own personal experiences have been to date when towing. E.g. this is how my WDH manual addresses the disabling of a TV's anti-sway feature:

"The Andersen WD Hitch features its own sway controls that are designed to auto-adjust to the load in your trailer and prevent trailer sway when installed properly. Unfortunately, some newer electronic anti-sway systems can misread the anti-sway efforts of the Andersen WD Hitch and the anti-sway system may actually cause the trailer to sway as the two systems work against each other.
These potential issues typically occur with electronic anti-sway systems that are designed to detect trailer sway and automatically use the vehicle brakes to help control the sway. Please note that this type of anti-sway system is different from electronic traction control, which does not cause this type of problem. If you experience this type of issue, you will need to turn off the electronic anti-sway in your vehicle in order to tow with the Andersen WD Hitch.
This issue is most likely to occur in 2011 and newer truck models from Ford, GMC, Dodge, and Chevy. Refer to your tow vehicle’s owners manual to determine if you have electronic anti-sway and how to disable it while using the WD Hitch to tow."

Now...that's one WDH manufacturer's view on the topic. But others question whether a hitch manufacturer is the best source for that advice when TV manufacturers like Ford are the experts on their own anti-sway algorithm and should be the ones to offer an opinion on this. Perhaps I've missed it but I haven't found this being addressed in Ford's lengthy, excellent towing publication. It only discusses the trailer anti-sway feature in general terms on p. 6.

And then there is another way to consider this issue and that's by applying simple logic: A good WDH will inhibit sway from developing and so 'pre-empts' the need for the TV's anti-sway system to function. BUT...should sway develop despite the WDH's function (e.g. extreme conditions of gusty crosswinds, poor trailer loading, passing traffic, etc.) then you'd want the TV's anti-sway system to kick in, which is likely to apply trailer brakes and slow the TV's speed and thereby help the WDH regain sway control.

Seems quite a debate exists around this. My hunch: What matters most is what we experience with our F150's while towing, so hopefully folks will share their own impressions as the camping season unfolds.

Jack

So, I haven't taken delivery of my Airstream Basecamp 20X yet, but the Andersen anti's way WDH is a favorite among Basecamp owners. I was thinking of seeing how it tows just using the F-150's anti-sway system does before buying the Andersen WDH.

 

[uavmx]

On second thought, I opened up the power box.

It has a very conventional 220 Volt plug with screw terminals, and lots of open space. Simple s

olution may be a pigtail piggy backed on the screw terminals, exiting bottom of the box cover with a waterproof seal, and terminating with a 30 amp RV plug under the bumper.

Awesome, that would be very easy. I actually bought a set of wiring glands for a project on my hot tub, these are what would be best to use for real waterproofing of the passthrough. Anyone know the thickness of a 30amp RV cable? I imagine the 12-16mm in this kit might work!

TUPARKA 50 Pack Cable Gland Waterproof Adjustable 3-16mm Cable Connectors PG7 PG9 PG11 PG13.5 PG16 PG19 Plastic Cable Gland Joints with Gaskets in PP Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KFCGFYF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_F807ZVS249BP111VN56H


I wonder if this is long enough to cut the nema end off and hardwire it:
MICTUNING Heavy Duty 18 Inch RV Generator Adapter 125 250V - 30 Amp 4-Prong Locking Male Plug to 30Amp Standard Female with Handle - STW Cord for RV Trailer Camper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MX81TV...abc_81WDXHM0MEEK4GPED3G6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[pushrods]

Thank you for showing us inside Pandora's box. Always exciting to see details like this.

Thank you for showing us inside Pandora's box. Always exciting to see details like this.

Thanks for the information on the panel. Looks easy to mount a weather proof receptacle close to the rear of the power panel in the fenderwell/rear bumper area. It would be a short run by piggy backing a 3 wire 10g jumper from inside the power panel to the receptacle box like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/S7-Receptacl...eceptacle/dp/B08V118PC1/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&k

 

[uavmx]

Thanks for the information on the panel. Looks easy to mount a weather proof receptacle close to the rear of the power panel in the fenderwell/rear bumper area. It would be a short run by piggy backing a 3 wire 10g jumper from inside the power panel to the receptacle box like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/S7-Receptacle，125-Weatherproof-Electrical-Receptacle/dp/B08V118PC1/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&k

That seems more difficult to mount into sheet metal panels though compared to a pig tail that hangs out

 

[MnTom]

Awesome, that would be very easy. I actually bought a set of wiring glands for a project on my hot tub, these are what would be best to use for real waterproofing of the passthrough. Anyone know the thickness of a 30amp RV cable? I imagine the 12-16mm in this kit might work!

TUPARKA 50 Pack Cable Gland Waterproof Adjustable 3-16mm Cable Connectors PG7 PG9 PG11 PG13.5 PG16 PG19 Plastic Cable Gland Joints with Gaskets in PP Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KFCGFYF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_F807ZVS249BP111VN56H


I wonder if this is long enough to cut the nema end off and hardwire it:
MICTUNING Heavy Duty 18 Inch RV Generator Adapter 125 250V - 30 Amp 4-Prong Locking Male Plug to 30Amp Standard Female with Handle - STW Cord for RV Trailer Camper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MX81TV...abc_81WDXHM0MEEK4GPED3G6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You would need about 30” of wire to get to the bumper.
4-1/2 feet would let you install the weather protected box suggested by uavmx next to the hitch. ‘Could strap it to the crossmember of the hitch with the outlet face down, flush to the bottom of the bumper...

 

[Longhorngary]

On second thought, I opened up the power box.

It has a very conventional 220 Volt plug with screw terminals, and lots of open space. Simple s

olution may be a pigtail piggy backed on the screw terminals, exiting bottom of the box cover with a waterproof seal, and terminating with a 30 amp RV plug under the bumper.

I like this idea

 

[pushrods]

Ha Ha, I just noticed that the receptacle box link I last posted says its for a electrical car generator. 2021 f150 PB is about the only electrical car generator I know of.

 

[pushrods]

Awesome, that would be very easy. I actually bought a set of wiring glands for a project on my hot tub, these are what would be best to use for real waterproofing of the passthrough. Anyone know the thickness of a 30amp RV cable? I imagine the 12-16mm in this kit might work!

TUPARKA 50 Pack Cable Gland Waterproof Adjustable 3-16mm Cable Connectors PG7 PG9 PG11 PG13.5 PG16 PG19 Plastic Cable Gland Joints with Gaskets in PP Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KFCGFYF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_F807ZVS249BP111VN56H


I wonder if this is long enough to cut the nema end off and hardwire it:
MICTUNING Heavy Duty 18 Inch RV Generator Adapter 125 250V - 30 Amp 4-Prong Locking Male Plug to 30Amp Standard Female with Handle - STW Cord for RV Trailer Camper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MX81TV...abc_81WDXHM0MEEK4GPED3G6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Yes, I think that would work if it had good strain relief at or near the trucks power box. I think you would need some type of water proof cap at the tt 30r receptacle thou.

 

[don.mullins]

On second thought, I opened up the power box.

It has a very conventional 220 Volt plug with screw terminals, and lots of open space. Simple s

olution may be a pigtail piggy backed on the screw terminals, exiting bottom of the box cover with a waterproof seal, and terminating with a 30 amp RV plug under the bumper.

To help first responders, cover this new wire in ORANGE tape. That lets them know it is high voltage AC.

 

[TeeRoy]

Hey looking for some help, just got my trailer back from getting new axels and suspension, it's a 2008 Starcraft 3000dbs. Was excited to test out the generator mode, I got this dog bone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MX81TVH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Plugged it in (7.2 pro power), then I started turning the interior lights on one at a time, to see what it drew on the truck screen, at light 9 or so out of 12 the power shut off and the truck displayed a ground fault was detected, see owners manual. When I was at 7 or 8 lights it wasn't higher then 3 or 4 hundred watts. Did some troubleshooting, found one of my gfci plugs had reversed polarity, (didn't have anything plug into that outlet) didn't think that was the problem. Tried all the lights again, same results. Turned them all off and tried the a/c (probably 13.5k btu) was able to get fan to turn on, but when I tried to drop the thermostat and kick on the compressor it also tripped the power and I got the same ground fault message on the truck. Any advice for what I should check, I assume I probably have an issue on the trailer. I was so excited to test this out now I'm a little deflated.

 

[Mikes2021F150Hybrid]

How does your truck handle with that trailer? We are looking at a similar one.

Starting a thread but will put some various aspects as individual posts instead of one giant one, to make quote replies easier.

I have a KR Powerboost FX4, and a Grand Design Imagine 2800BH. I use a Reese Steadi Flex weight distribution hitch.

 

[daemonic3]

How does your truck handle with that trailer? We are looking at a similar one.

Funny you should ask! I don't go above 60mph and I have never felt in danger, but I definitely would not go 65 or 70 with my setup. I haven't experienced greater than 25mph cross winds or so and I just slowed to 55 to feel safe.

This year we have only had 1 kid on one trip and felt the bunk area is just wasted space for us and have downsized to a more open floorplan with more windows everywhere. Plus it is 29'9" instead of 32' so we can hopefully fit into more parks! We just got a new Imagine 2500RL versus the 2800BH in this thread.

The crazy thing is those last 2 feet, plus 500# less unloaded weight to start with, it feels WAY easier already. I'll know more when towing on flat ground as the initial trip was driving home from Reno to Sac and mostly descending down from the 7k summit.

Not sure if this is allowed (admin can remove link if not) but here is my 2800BH listing if anyone is interested and near the Sac area: https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2019-Grand-Design-IMAGINE-2800BH-5016565987

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