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Powerboost generator essentials

jeffcrum

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This is what using the correct transfer switch does.
Thanks Hullguy. I get that. But, most transfer switches limit you to a certain number of circuits. I'd like to be able to choose which circuits to use depending on current needs.

I guess I need to find a main box transfer switch that connects to the meter and had the neutral ground bonding. Then make my current (or a new) box secondary. Does that exist? It wouldn't be the first time I dreamed something up and then tried to find it ?

I think the Generlink might be the best option. But, my power company won't allow anything installed on the meter before the service entrance.
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Ajzride

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7.2KW should run most of the house and an A/C unit as long as a soft starter is installed on the A/C. I'm using a 9.5kw roll around and it powered every light, TV, fridge, fan, and the 5-ton downstairs AC unit on a 3700 sqf house when I did load testing while putting out 6700 watts at 28 amps.

Ford F-150 Lightning Powerboost generator essentials 67DD1C00-6FE1-44A1-AF9E-446821E23F70
 
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BLoflin

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Or connect directly without the neutral, though I am not sure about the safety implications of this.
Jcaspar, I surely, surely hope you are meaning Ground when you say Neutral.

You ABSOLUTELY should not be connecting "without the neutral".

To be to code and the safest you need all 3 (or 4 if using 240V), Hot, Neutral, Gnd (and other Hot for 240v).

You could get by, not recommended though, by not using GND from the truck, temporarily. But better option is just to use extension cords, until you get a more permanent solution.

NEVER, should you have Neutral dis-connected.

Tell your electrician you need a setup to connect a Neutral Bonded Generator to power your house for back up. Basically, this will be a transfer switch and panel that will switch not only your Hot1 and Hot2 from your MAINS power (your meter), but it will also switch Neutral out of your current panel (where it is bonded to Ground). Something like the Reliance X-Series.
 

jcaspar

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Jcaspar, I surely, surely hope you are meaning Ground when you say Neutral.

You ABSOLUTELY should not be connecting "without the neutral".

To be to code and the safest you need all 3 (or 4 if using 240V), Hot, Neutral, Gnd (and other Hot for 240v).

You could get by, not recommended though, by not using GND from the truck, temporarily. But better option is just to use extension cords, until you get a more permanent solution.

NEVER, should you have Neutral dis-connected.

Tell your electrician you need a setup to connect a Neutral Bonded Generator to power your house for back up. Basically, this will be a transfer switch and panel that will switch not only your Hot1 and Hot2 from your MAINS power (your meter), but it will also switch Neutral out of your current panel (where it is bonded to Ground). Something like the Reliance X-Series.
Wow! Thanks for catching that. You are absolutely correct. I meant to say GROUND. Will edit original post so no one makes a mistake.
 

Ajzride

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Now that I actually have a truck, I see that 7.2KW power station only has a 30-amp output. My test load above was 28 amps for the whole house, but the AC was already running when I took that picture. Most assuredly I was pushing 50 amps when the AC kicked on. If you are going to run the whole house from a F150 you will need a very good soft starter on your AC and probably need to keep the lights and TVs to a minimum anytime the AC could be cycling. The 7.2KW is plenty for a whole house, but the 30 amps is marginal.
 

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xtraman122

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7.2kw is 30A @240v, what are you trying to say? Two hot legs @120v each with 30A of power makes for 7.2kw. Thatā€™s normal for an L14-30 connector which is why they probably made the inverter this power. You couldnā€™t have any higher amperage at that voltage and still be within 7.2kw.
 
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Ajzride

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7.2kw is 30A @240v, what are you trying to say? Two hot legs @120v each with 30A of power makes for 7.2kw. Thatā€™s normal for an L14-30 connector which is why they probably made the inverter this power. You couldnā€™t have any higher amperage at that voltage and still be within 7.2kw.
For some reason I thought the truck had a 14-50R plug and not a 14-30. Looking at mine now that I have delivery i see I was wrong. I guess I assumed it was 7.2KW running and something higher (maybe 9.5KW or 10.0KW peak), but I'm probably getting just getting myself confused with all the other generator research I did after snowmageddon.
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