Stereo Upgrade - On a brand new truck... who does that?

[daczone]

I'm upgrading the stock low quality 8 speaker B&O auto system. I'm actually suprized at the low quality of the speakers. Thought not my photo but this is what I am replacing:

This is NOT a high end money is no object project, this is I want better sound for a resonable price.

The componets I have choosen are:

Skar Audio TX69 6x9 $80 (These are a 2 way speaker with 90 db sensitivity and a fiberglass cone)
Yes they will need adapters to fit.

Skar Audio TX65 6.5 $61 (another 2 way speaker for the rear with 89 db sensitivity and a fiberglass cone)

Skar Audio SPX-T Tweeters $46 (Aluminim Driver with a 92 db sensivity)

Under the rear seat Subwoofer Dual 12" Sealed Skar Audio D4 $340

Skar Audio RP-1200.1D Monoblock Amp $161

Kicker Keyloc LineOut Converter $129

Pac APH-FD02 Speaker Harness

Install wirekit (for the Amp) Some groments, in case I can't find a path to the power source.
The only speaker I am not replacing is the dash center channel. I feel that the truck is lacking in clean crisp sound. Not looking for loud, just clear and crisp. The Sub may be an overkill. They make them with dual 10's as well as ported vs sealed. I have always prefered a sealed box and typically the larger the driver the lower the frequency range. The doors can handle the mids and the bass will come from the sub.

All of these compents will be deliveried in a week. For the speaker adapters I have ordered a set, but I may 3d print some as well to get the perfect fit. I will also use some Audio Mat inside the doors, depending on what I find inside there as I don't want any rattles.

Sponsored

 

[GDN]

There are quite a few upgrade threads. Many report good improvement just replacing the speakers and getting rid of the cheap paper junk that is in the truck. From there it is hard to know and decipher what is right and how much it takes to improve beyond speakers.

Truly the center speaker in the front should just be removed. They don't handle it right and if you can't get to controls to reduce its input you could just be making it worse. You control that front center stage from the left and right. Replace all of the other speakers and just unplug it to see what you think of the sound.

If you are wanting a moderate upgrade, you are on a good start, but you're going a long ways with the amp and subs not to get proper full control of all

 

[Mashedtators]

Where do you plan on hiding that amp?

 

[Montecarlossfan]

There are quite a few upgrade threads. Many report good improvement just replacing the speakers and getting rid of the cheap paper junk that is in the truck. From there it is hard to know and decipher what is right and how much it takes to improve beyond speakers.

Truly the center speaker in the front should just be removed. They don't handle it right and if you can't get to controls to reduce its input you could just be making it worse. You control that front center stage from the left and right. Replace all of the other speakers and just unplug it to see what you think of the sound.

If you are wanting a moderate upgrade, you are on a good start, but you're going a long ways with the amp and subs not to get proper full control of all

Exactly, I am partial to the kicker KS series since they have a crossover inline for the hi/low and are pretty sensitive and still sound decent on factory power. However an amp will wake them up and I’ll probably go with a kicker key compact since that’ll be an easy install and it tunes well automatically. That being said our cabins are quiet and that goes a long way with not needing another 100 watts to overcome road noise.

 

[JDub]

My 23” Lariat ER speakers sound decent. However, I do want to upgrade my sub.

 

[daczone]

My 23” Lariat ER speakers sound decent. However, I do want to upgrade my sub.

The system just doesn't seem to have the highs I prefer, It's not the worst stereo I have heard but at this pricepoint I expected more.

Love your lightbar, is it a wrap?

 

[daczone]

Exactly, I am partial to the kicker KS series since they have a crossover inline for the hi/low and are pretty sensitive and still sound decent on factory power. However an amp will wake them up and I’ll probably go with a kicker key compact since that’ll be an easy install and it tunes well automatically. That being said our cabins are quiet and that goes a long way with not needing another 100 watts to overcome road noise.

Agreed. I was trying to do this on the cheap, but only wanted to do this once. Not crazy overboard but it should be a huge improvement.

 

[daczone]

Where do you plan on hiding that amp?

I'm thinking behind the seat. I added the seat folddown strap. there seems to be room right where the factory sub sits.

 

[MrLoganRoss]

I started from scratch on bothe my Mach-E and lightning BO systems. Speakers are easy to swap. The most important thing to start with is a DSP/Amp. The ability to properly tune it with a microphone and have presets will maximize you stereo (even if you keep the speakers). Other than that either the PAC Audio or Mobridge Ford BO interface will work ( I have one of each).

here is the DSP I use in both cars with extreme success and ease in config/tuning.

https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/helix/amplifiers/v-eight-dsp-mk2

 

[JDub]

The system just doesn't seem to have the highs I prefer, It's not the worst stereo I have heard but at this pricepoint I expected more.

Love your lightbar, is it a wrap?

Thanks. Yes, it's a wrap (PPF).

 

[ScottyMcQueen]

I don't blame you for wanting to upgrade. I saw b and o and got excited, until I heard it. The bass is unbelievably weak and the total volume being so low I couldn't drown out my terrible singing voice.

I replaced the speakers with Sony mobile es series , using the 3 driver components for the front and 2 for the rear doors. An audiocontrol 5 channel amp was installrd. I then added a custom sub box fitting two 8 inch audiocontrol subs under the back seat. I mounted the amp where the factory amp was originally.

The difference is unbelievable. The only negative was having to buy an expensive interface to connect the factory head unit to the new amp

 

[daczone]

I don't blame you for wanting to upgrade. I saw b and o and got excited, until I heard it. The bass is unbelievably weak and the total volume being so low I couldn't drown out my terrible singing voice.

I replaced the speakers with Sony mobile es series , using the 3 driver components for the front and 2 for the rear doors. An audiocontrol 5 channel amp was installrd. I then added a custom sub box fitting two 8 inch audiocontrol subs under the back seat. I mounted the amp where the factory amp was originally.

The difference is unbelievable. The only negative was having to buy an expensive interface to connect the factory head unit to the new amp

Agreed, I am familular with Audio Control and wanted to go that route, but every review that I looked at suggested the Kicker Keyloc. So I went with that, Not crazy about the setup installation but it should work. Skar is a new brand for me... my Audi TT is all Sundown Audio and I love it. Went with Skar over pricing and reviews.

 

[daczone]

Done... Everything except the tweeters. It's a 10 minuite job per door. Pretty quick. The stock speakers are less then 1 pound and have tiny magnets on them. I'm surprised Ford isn't replacing a whole lot of them under Warranty.

Stock

Replacement (This speaker is backwards (upside down) in this mount).
I realized that when I got to the truck. These are $10 mounts from Amazon.

Rears

I reused the rear baskets.... Simply note the Polarity of the terminals, Cut the speaker out of the frame, solder in new wires and reuse.

Positive is always on the right when looking at it from the backside (terminal on the bottom).

And everythings bolts back together.

 

[ScottyMcQueen]

So what do you think of the results?

 

[daczone]

So what do you think of the results?

Night and Day difference. Worth the couple hundred bucks. though I still have the tweeters to replace.

Sponsored