alockbox
Well-known member
Ok so here is what I did. I used a pry tool to remove the coin holder. This is standard on the base Lariat.
I pried first the bottom and then the top with a second tool.
Interestingly, it has a harness attached to the back end. The harness has wires but the clip does not, it just dead-ends the signal. They must be using one complete harness for simplicity of production.
The coin holder is actually two pieces clipped together.
I had an AMPS 17mm ball mount I wanted to use. I had previously paired this with a MagSafe 17mm ball joint front-end, so I wanted to recreate that setup here.
I took measurements and cut some matte black acrylic into two adapter plates. One is the size of the coin holder trim and the other a little larger to sit behind the opening and sandwich the dash between them. The 4 holes are standard AMPS Mount spaces. While the mount plate itself could have worked as the front-end of the sandwich, it didn’t fill the space enough for me.
I pried first the bottom and then the top with a second tool.
Interestingly, it has a harness attached to the back end. The harness has wires but the clip does not, it just dead-ends the signal. They must be using one complete harness for simplicity of production.
The coin holder is actually two pieces clipped together.
I had an AMPS 17mm ball mount I wanted to use. I had previously paired this with a MagSafe 17mm ball joint front-end, so I wanted to recreate that setup here.
I took measurements and cut some matte black acrylic into two adapter plates. One is the size of the coin holder trim and the other a little larger to sit behind the opening and sandwich the dash between them. The 4 holes are standard AMPS Mount spaces. While the mount plate itself could have worked as the front-end of the sandwich, it didn’t fill the space enough for me.
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Here’s how it looks assembled, only the plate on the left would be behind the dash. I tightened the assembly and put a dab of super glue gel on the perimeter of each nut to lock them in place on the rear plate. Once dry, I disassembled and then got to work installing it. I ended up drilling a 1/2” hole in the center of the rear plate to allow my finger to hold the plate as I pushed it into the dash then pressed it forward. I also applied some double sided foam tape to help hold it in place and minimize squeaks. It still took some time as I used shorter bolts, but it was doable.​
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The hardest part is aligning the rear plate before sticking it, so the front plate holes line up.​
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An easier way would have been to have the bolts come from the rear, glued in place, cut the right length, and used a capped nut. I just didn’t have any.​
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Finished product.​
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