Ford Lightning with an onboard power system that provides a 240V output, tw0 110vac 180 degree?

[Devereuxstreet]

I just purchased a Ford Lightning with an onboard power system that provides a 240V output. But I will get car next week, Since my well water pump at home operates on 240V, My question is: Is the 240V live wire equivalent to 110V AC relative to ground, or can I directly send 240V to my home’s electrical system? I don't need send another cable - 120v to home again I don’t want to use Ford's Intelligent Backup Power system because it’s too expensive. I also have solar panels, a solar system, and a gas generator. But my solar diverter is 220vac. Not two 110vac, 180 degree. My goal is to disconnect from the Hydro One power grid during the summer due to high electricity transfer fees, which are 0.15/kWh and sometimes transfer fee even 0.20/kWh. Is it possible to do this?"

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[Effonefiddy Lightning]

Excuse me if this is redundant but I recently had a transfer switch installed with the 30A plug. If I were to cut off the ground wire from the cable to make it work with my truck, what is the danger in doing that. I've read peoples post on doing this so I just want some clarifications as to weather or not this a bad idea. Also I live in California. Not sure if other state wire home differently.

 

[Runaway Tractor]

Excuse me if this is redundant but I recently had a transfer switch installed with the 30A plug. If I were to cut off the ground wire from the cable to make it work with my truck, what is the danger in doing that. I've read peoples post on doing this so I just want some clarifications as to weather or not this a bad idea.

If your transfer switch also transfers the neutral, then there is no need.

If your transfer switch does not transfer the neutral, then you have the usual problem with the GFCI tripping. Lifting the ground on the house end of the cable at the generator inlet receptacle creates no danger or safety hazard. None. Zero. The only hazard is the code Nazis trying to throw books at you. Every circuit breaker, GFCI, AFCI, and other existing protection devices will all still work. There is no lost or disabled functionality that existed in the normal power configuration. The ground wire in your generator cable is intact and protecting the cable itself. Like if someone ran it over with a lawn mower or water got in it.

It doesn't meet perfect code requirements. But this is temporary, safe, emergency power.

 

[Al_V]

BTW, I laugh when I see people complain about electricity costs like C$0.15/kWH. Most people in California do not get that even during the lowest cost TOU period. Frankly, I don't see how you get any meaning ROI with solar given that level of electricity cost.

The OP stated that the "electricity transfer fees, which are 0.15/kWh and sometimes transfer fee even 0.20/kWh."

I'm pretty sure that is only a very small portion of the total he pays for power.
My bill from AEP in NE Ohio includes charges for Transmission, Distribution, generation, and a monthly "customer charge" of $10.
Generation, or "supplier" charges are about half of my total bill, transmission and distribution are approximately %25 each.
In my case the total is about .17/per KWh, so the OP may be paying 2-3 times the "transfer fee" for the total bill.

 

[Runaway Tractor]

There is definitely some irony to the OP wanting to buy an $80,000 truck in order to save $47/mo.

 

[Danface]

Well, I had a generator plug and a simple main safety added, but when I connected the truck 220v to the house, the truck GFI tripped. After much internet searching, I finally disconnected the ground wire at the generator plug and it all works! I’m sure someone will be rolling their eyes at my actions, but . . . It works. All other options would have cost thousands.

In most states it's OK to not connect the ground when the generator is not permanent

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