Installed JL Audio 8" Powered MicroSub+ behind rear seat - Lariat ER

[SoundsGoodStereo]

I've only got the base XLT so I don't have a factory amplified system like the trucks with B&O; I would probably honestly just go with one of the powered JL Audio boxes, either the 8" in this thread or a 10" if the box fits the same.

Got it, so on the non-amplified trucks, we need to grab the signal to amplify from the factory radio/ACM. This is the harness that allows us to do this:

https://soundsgoodstereo.com/collec...-t-harness-compatible-with-2021-ford-vehicles

Now, if you are using a JL Audio amplifier (Even if it is built-in), it already has a line output converter built-in, so no need for another one before the amplifier.

BUT, the factory signal needs to be corrected before you amplify it. You have two options to handle this:

Option 1: Use ForSCAN to turn off the factory EQ, but if you are only adding subs, you will end up turning off the EQ on the speakers also, so it will not sound that good and you could damage the factory speakers. If you are going to upgrade the entire system with new amplifiers, then this is the option I would recommend from a performance and cost perspective.

Option 2: Use a signal correction device that will analyze the factory signal and correct it. The two we recommend and have tested in these trucks are the Kicker KeyLOC along with the JL Audio Fix86. The KeyLOC is a better fit when adding subs only. Do not use "Accubass", "Epicenter", etc to correct the factory signal, it is not the right tool for the job.

Let me know what route you would like to go to and any questions that you have, we can guide you in the right direction.

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[BennyTheBeaver]

Got it, so on the non-amplified trucks, we need to grab the signal to amplify from the factory radio/ACM. This is the harness that allows us to do this:

https://soundsgoodstereo.com/collec...-t-harness-compatible-with-2021-ford-vehicles

Now, if you are using a JL Audio amplifier (Even if it is built-in), it already has a line output converter built-in, so no need for another one before the amplifier.

BUT, the factory signal needs to be corrected before you amplify it. You have two options to handle this:

Option 1: Use ForSCAN to turn off the factory EQ, but if you are only adding subs, you will end up turning off the EQ on the speakers also, so it will not sound that good and you could damage the factory speakers. If you are going to upgrade the entire system with new amplifiers, then this is the option I would recommend from a performance and cost perspective.

Option 2: Use a signal correction device that will analyze the factory signal and correct it. The two we recommend and have tested in these trucks are the Kicker KeyLOC along with the JL Audio Fix86. The KeyLOC is a better fit when adding subs only. Do not use "Accubass", "Epicenter", etc to correct the factory signal, it is not the right tool for the job.

Let me know what route you would like to go to and any questions that you have, we can guide you in the right direction.

Wait, so to add a Microsub+ to my Pro I need a $200+ harness...I can't just tap into the speaker wire?

I'm out. Bummer.

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

Wait, so to add a Microsub+ to my Pro I need a $200+ harness...I can't just tap into the speaker wire?

I'm out. Bummer.

Well, you can "Tap" into wires if you want, but they have a factory EQ on them that does not have a lot of low bass frequencies in the signal. So you still have to fix this.

Our harness is a custom-made, plug-and-play harness so no "Tapping" is required.

You can build your own harness and utilize your own labor to build your own. Here is the plug to get you started:

PAC Audio LPHFD31
https://soundsgoodstereo.com/produc...amplified-ford-vehicles-with-32-pin-connector

From here, you need to extend the wires to the back and then run into a Kicker KeyLOC, then into your JL Audio micro sub amplifier.

 

[T i h o r]

@SoundsGoodStereo thank you so much for all the feedback and suggestions you've provided so far, it's been great to understand what all is required in getting this setup correctly.

I have a questions and was going to PM you, but thought it might be helpful to ask here in case others have the same idea/concerns. There was a lot shared, so I just want to make sure I didn't miss anything.

I have the regular B&O (although I don't believe it would matter which one), and I wanted to add the 10" JL Audio Micro Sub Amp (ACS110LG-TW1: Single 10TW1 PowerWedge+™ with DCD™ Amplifier, Sealed, 0.25 Ω), would I also need your harness (https://soundsgoodstereo.com/collec...harness-to-add-subwoofer-amplifier-to-factory) to send the signal to the new sub/amp, or can I do this with some standard wires? If I do need yours, which one would it be? This is the sub/amp I'm looking at (https://www.jlaudio.com/products/acs110lg-tw1-car-audio-powerwedge-amplified-subwoofer-systems-93334).

Also, do I require anything else? I saw you mention a Kicker KeyLOC, but this would only apply if I didn't have the B&O system, correct?

Ideally, I'm trying to understand everything I'd need so I could order it all as a DIY project, or worst case tell my local shop what to order to complete it.

Many thanks in advance!

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

@SoundsGoodStereo thank you so much for all the feedback and suggestions you've provided so far, it's been great to understand what all is required in getting this setup correctly.

Your welcome.

I have a questions and was going to PM you, but thought it might be helpful to ask here in case others have the same idea/concerns. There was a lot shared, so I just want to make sure I didn't miss anything.

I have the regular B&O (although I don't believe it would matter which one), and I wanted to add the 10" JL Audio Micro Sub Amp (ACS110LG-TW1: Single 10TW1 PowerWedge+™ with DCD™ Amplifier, Sealed, 0.25 Ω), would I also need your harness (https://soundsgoodstereo.com/collec...harness-to-add-subwoofer-amplifier-to-factory) to send the signal to the new sub/amp, or can I do this with some standard wires? If I do need yours, which one would it be? This is the sub/amp I'm looking at (https://www.jlaudio.com/products/acs110lg-tw1-car-audio-powerwedge-amplified-subwoofer-systems-93334).

That is exactly the harness you need and no other modules in between. The JL Audio amplifiers have everything built in, we just need the signal to feed it.

You will notice it has two inputs, "High-Level Inputs" through a small plug and also "Low Level" inputs through the RCA.

To simply what these are and when to use them on this amplifier
- RCA = Only with an aftermarket radio
- Speaker Wire = With factory stereos

On our harness, you will choose "Oval Subwoofer" + "Speaker Wire" and this will be wired to the "High-Level Inputs". The RCA connections will not be used.

Nex step is to swith the "Turn-On Mode" to DC, this will handle the remote turn on/off, so no need for a remote wire.

From here, Power + Ground from the battery, do not use cab/chassis ground, bass knob and adjust the "Input Sensitivity".

You are good to go

Also, do I require anything else? I saw you mention a Kicker KeyLOC, but this would only apply if I didn't have the B&O system, correct?

Ideally, I'm trying to understand everything I'd need so I could order it all as a DIY project, or worst case tell my local shop what to order to complete it.

Many thanks in advance!

On the Unleashed systems, you can use ForScan to turn off the ANC microphones which help, but on the regular B&O, nothing else is needed.

The non-amplified trucks do not have a subwoofer, so the stereo signal needs to come from the doors which have a reduction in subwoofer frequencies so customers do not damage the $3 paper cone drivers in the doors. So a KeyLoc is used to recreate this missing range in the music.

Hope all of this helps and let me know if you have any other questions
Don

 

[Whammy Bar]

...
Hope all of this helps and let me know if you have any other questions
Don

SGS...

I'm torn between the JL 10" microsub and your stealth behind the seat enclosure. The JL route appears to be around $900 by the time power wire and the harness are factored in. For $600 bucks more... Am I going to be significantly more blown away with the 6.5"s in your perfectly engineered box?

Also... The front and rear door block off plates... Still worth doing if adding either sub option?

Thanks for taking the time to contribute so much info to those of us asking questions as we struggle with this decision.

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

SGS...

I'm torn between the JL 10" microsub and your stealth behind the seat enclosure. The JL route appears to be around $900 by the time power wire and the harness are factored in. For $600 bucks more... Am I going to be significantly more blown away with the 6.5"s in your perfectly engineered box?

Also... The front and rear door block off plates... Still worth doing if adding either sub option?

Thanks for taking the time to contribute so much info to those of us asking questions as we struggle with this decision.

You're welcome, so let me lay out a few details and help guide you.

I assume we are talking about the:
JL Audio ACP110LG-TW1 Single 10TW1 MicroSub+™ with DCD™ Amplifier, Ported, 0.25 Ω

If so, that setup might actually provide similar output (DB levels) to our enclosure just due to the vented design, and large diameter cone with similar power. In this truck, the sound quality of our enclosure will be more appropriate since it's tuned for this truck. But the output is similar.

BUT three factors that you want to consider and these are what make our package a better fit..

First, the fit.. If you have a SuperCrew cab, the JL enclosure will fit with the seats in the normal position, but you will not be able to flip up the bottom cushion. With 6.6 inches at the top (13.5 inches vertical), you will lose the functionality of the truck. Obviously, you want a behind-the-seat system since you want to retain the space under the seat. If you have a SuperCab, the seat does not move into the back wall like the SuperCrew, so this JL Audio subwoofer is a viable option.

So our enclosure retains 100% functionality and allows you to flip the seat up and play the stereo system without any tension or damage to the vehicle/subwoofers.

Second, we are using a very specific amplifier with the KEY technology built in. This tech analyzes the factory signal and removes the nasty EQ bumps the factory added to the system. This allows us to deliver more of a linear performance, better bandwidth and better reproduction for your favorite song.

You can buy this technology separately and add it to the JL Audio (Or Any amplifier) if you want. It is the Kicker KeyLOC and the cost is $129.99. Just needs to be programmed and wired into the system.

Last and most important. Our enclosure is specifically tuned for this exact vehicle. The vent/port tuning frequency, subwoofer placement, and output match the acoustics of this truck. When you go with a pre-fabricated universal enclosure, you lose this ability. It's almost like me sending you a "Base Tune" for your truck that we also apply to a Tesla.. Both Electric vehicles, right?? Same happens on universal enclosures. Great for cost, but the same enclosures' performance changes per vehicle.

The way these packages work, we fully assemble everything in-house and then we load your package into our truck. We then fully tune the package and listen to it by our team. Once we are happy with the performance, it is removed from our truck and shipped your way. You do not need to tune, adjust or find a shop with sophisticated tools to properly set these up. It is done for you before it ships

Sounds like a sales pitch, sorry, but these are the main differences between these options.
Any additional questions, let me know.

For someone wanting to add bass only, but want better performance from the factory speakers, this package is hands down the best performance for the $$$

https://soundsgoodstereo.com/collec...g-play-system-upgrade-b-o-including-unleashed

 

[skyak]

Got it. 2 orders placed

1 for the hole cover plate and 1 for the front and rear block-off plates.

Thx.

ps...i will not go down the rabbit hole...i will not go down the rabbit hole...

I have installed the front block-off plates in my F250, the rears will go in this afternoon. I used this weatherstripping to seal the block-off plates:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-K...Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R338H/100197882

I also installed the SQL Audio Soundwave speaker foam surrounds:

https://sqlaudio.com/product/soundwave-2-pack-speaker-kit/

The difference in audio experience is really quite astounding. The midrange is much more vibrant and I feel it transforms the stereo from a bunch of decent components to a cohesive package. Note that I do have upgraded Focal door speakers (powered) in my F250. Looking forward to seeing how it is with the rear plates also installed.

 

[GDN]

I have installed the front block-off plates in my F250, the rears will go in this afternoon. I used this weatherstripping to seal the block-off plates:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-K...Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R338H/100197882

I also installed the SQL Audio Soundwave speaker foam surrounds:

https://sqlaudio.com/product/soundwave-2-pack-speaker-kit/

The difference in audio experience is really quite astounding. The midrange is much more vibrant and I feel it transforms the stereo from a bunch of decent components to a cohesive package. Note that I do have upgraded Focal door speakers (powered) in my F250. Looking forward to seeing how it is with the rear plates also installed.

Putting posts and Videos together, did you make a video installing your speakers and amps? I've seen one of a guy adding Focal's to his F250.

 

[skyak]

Putting posts and Videos together, did you make a video installing your speakers and amps? I've seen one of a guy adding Focal's to his F250.

No was not me. Videos take too long and the better half only tolerates so much play time .

 

[BennyTheBeaver]

So...

My wife got me a birthday present. My 10" JL ACP110LG-TW1 arrived today.

Will be installing shortly with a Keyloc. Quick question though...where is the best place to run the 12v wire into the cab from the LVB?

 

[GDN]

So...

My wife got me a birthday present. My 10" JL ACP110LG-TW1 arrived today.

Will be installing shortly with a Keyloc. Quick question though...where is the best place to run the 12v wire into the cab from the LVB?

A wire the size for just the sub it should actually lay on either side of the truck in the track running along the doors. Those are super easy to get into. Run under the dash on the drivers side and there is a grommet there that some have gone through.

If you want to go all in or your using a wire the size of 0 gauge - go through the floor using a cable gland and run it under the truck to the battery. I went this way and have some pictures of my install. I've been intending to put a post together and haven't made it happen yet. Either way is doable.

 

[BennyTheBeaver]

A wire the size for just the sub it should actually lay on either side of the truck in the track running along the doors. Those are super easy to get into. Run under the dash on the drivers side and there is a grommet there that some have gone through.

If you want to go all in or your using a wire the size of 0 gauge - go through the floor using a cable gland and run it under the truck to the battery. I went this way and have some pictures of my install. I've been intending to put a post together and haven't made it happen yet. Either way is doable.

Yeah, I've installed a bunch of subs in my time. I plan on using the door tracks, I was wondering where to tap through to the frunk (more specifically the space where the LVB is). I'm using 6 gauge wire, I think 8 was recommended (based on the specs) so I usually go a gauge bigger than recommended (old habit).

 

[GDN]

Yeah, I've installed a bunch of subs in my time. I plan on using the door tracks, I was wondering where to tap through to the frunk (more specifically the space where the LVB is). I'm using 6 gauge wire, I think 8 was recommended (based on the specs) so I usually go a gauge bigger than recommended (old habit).

You should be able to find the grommet under the drivers side dash to get through.

 

[skyak]

There is also a grommet directly under the drivers floor, I used this one for the amp power steps. You take off the door sill and pull back carpet and there it is.

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