Looking for true plug and play subwoofer for XLT

[Egg]

I’ve gone down the rabbit hole the last couple of days researching audio upgrades for my XLT. I think I’m going to do the Alpine Type R door speakers and tweeters that are popular on a few posts here, but I’m having trouble finding the best option for adding a subwoofer.

I’ve looked a bit at the OEM Ford option and haven’t been able to find any under $550ish. I understand this requires Forscan changes to enable as well, so I’d have to factor in the cost of that cable (I plan to pick one up sooner or later anyway).

I’m also looking at the Kicker Hideaway. I’ve seen mentions on ICE F-150 forums of using a plug behind the weather stripping on the rear driver’s side door to install this but have not been able to verify if this is possible on the Lightning, much less the XLT. This would be about half the price (even less used) and probably a much bigger improvement.

Lastly, I’m trying to go as plug-and-play as possible to avoid putting strain on the 12v battery. I know that it’s a bit smaller than what would be in typical ICE vehicles. It would be interesting if there was a way to use one of the 3-prong outlets in the cab to power an amp/sub, but I know this would be highly unconventional.

Anyone found any other options?

Sponsored

 

[BennyTheBeaver]

Lastly, I’m trying to go as plug-and-play as possible to avoid putting strain on the 12v battery. I know that it’s a bit smaller than what would be in typical ICE vehicles. It would be interesting if there was a way to use one of the 3-prong outlets in the cab to power an amp/sub, but I know this would be highly unconventional.

Plug and Play wouldn't neccisarily be any easier on the battery, the subwoofer still needs to use the 12v battery to power the Sub (Amplifier). That power is getting used whether you get the Ford solution installed, or a custom setup.

That being said. I run 2 amps off my 12v battery (amp for the speakers, and my sub has a built in amp) and haven't had issues.

Aside from the Ford solution, adding an inexpensive amp, subwoofer and a LOC (Line output converter) would still be $300+ depending on the quality you went for.

You are still going to want to use Forscan to disable the bass rolloff.

 

[EngramQuarry]

You definitely want to get a class D amp no matter how you do it. They are by far the most efficient.

 

[GDN]

If you use modern equipment you won't have any battery issues. I'm running 2 amps - 1100 watts total. No problems in 2 years.

 

[Egg]

I'm running 2 amps - 1100 watts total.

That‘s pulling some power! Good to hear.

 

[hturnerfamily]

I searched for the same '120v'-powered sub, but, alas, that's not a thing... so, the underseat subwoofer powered by the rear 12v outlet works perfectly - never a problem.

 

[Egg]

I searched for the same '120v'-powered sub, but, alas, that's not a thing... so, the underseat subwoofer powered by the rear 12v outlet works perfectly - never a problem.

What sub did you go with? And did it come with a 12v adapter or did you make one?

Sponsored