Outlet power

[Maquis]

You're right. I missed the "of 120V" in the original claim.

That said, drawing 30A per phase via the 5-20R outlets which are clearly marked as 20A max is a bad idea (and I am surprised Ford's design doesn't use a separate breaker to prevent this). Even if the wiring from inverter to each outlet is appropriately sized (10ga per the small conductor rule if NEC applies, which I suppose it may not) and the outlets themselves are rated for use at 75C (questionable) nothing you can plug into them is going to be sized or rated to carry 30A of current. And you'll need to build a very dangerous extension cord with a 20A plug on one end and 30A receptable on the other end - or overload a nominally 20A power strip, the internal wiring of which will not be designed or rated for a 30A load.

If you want 30A per phase of 120 to run exclusively 120V devices, one of the power strips/breakout boxes used in datacenters for exactly this purpose (they even have the correct locking 30A connector on the upstream end) would work, but they're not weatherproof. Maybe with the prevalence of TT-30 in the RV world, there is something similar and weatherproof available there? In any case, if you want 7kW of power for 120V devices, better get it from the 30A receptacle, not the 20A ones.

It’s called a spider box.

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[Maximum Effort]

Lots of wrong assumptions on this thread. Any electricians familiar with the NEC (National Electrical Code) can tell you that a circuit (say 20A rated) does NOT have to exclusively use 20 amp rated outlets.



There is an exception in Code which permits the common 15A receptacle on 20A circuits if there are two or more sockets on the circuit. (NEC 210.21B3). The common double receptacle is two sockets. Mirroring that, there is a UL requirement that all 15A receptacles must have an internal capacity of 20A - only the socket itself is 15A.

I think we are saying the same thing.

 

[Marcelo Zanetti]

Bingo....

 

[Marcelo Zanetti]

Yes, the truck must be in the running state, and if you want the PPOB to continue working after 30 minutes, you need to make sure the automatic shutdown timer is disabled. Also shutdown any unneeded systems, lights, entertainment, HVAC.

I did a test last Saturday, left the truck powering the whole house overnight for about 10.5 hours, it only spent 19% of the HVB.
I did not have to disable the 30 minutes timer, perhaps when pro-power is on it bypasses it automatically?!?!
I did see a message that pro-power would disconnect once the low threshold is achieved, I did manually turned off the AC, lights and etc...

 

[TaxmanHog]

I did not have to disable the 30 minutes timer, perhaps when pro-power is on it bypasses it automatically?!?!
I did see a message that pro-power would disconnect once the low threshold is achieved, I did manually turned off the AC, lights and etc...

IIRC, there may have been an improvement which automatically switches off the auto shutdown timer "IF" PPOB is switched on, just make sure to confirm that it is indeed off, especially if something critical like refrigeration is being backed-up !!

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