Power out. All good. No noise! Pro Power Onboard to the rescue

[Galactus55]

I have my truck setup to use my installed 10 circuit 240 volt transfer switches. All works perfectly. I just wish Ford would do an OTA update that would allow the pro power to run with the truck turned off. AKA camping mode.

Here is my “Unintelligent” backup power installation

I just went simple if power goes out I plug in the truck. Low cost setup.

Works no problem with the trucks GFI This setup cost me about $1,100.00. I just need to plug truck in and turn it on Pro power. This transfer switch has 10 ciruits that are separate in that I can pick and choose which ciruit I want to run off the truck. 1 240 volt 30amp for the air conditioner(only if needed), 1 120 volt bridgred for kitchen plugs the rest for fridges, sump pump, internet modem WiFi, some computers, and bedroom TV +.
FYI I turn down the Ford Pro charge station to setting #5=48 amps. wired direct to panel with 60amp breaker.
FYI

Reliance Controls 30 Amp 7500W 10-Circuit Indoor Transfer Switch Kit
Model # 310CRK|Store SKU # 1001061741 Canadian Home Depot US unit maybe different.
I took the generator connector plug out of the remote outside box, and installed it in the optional position in the transfer switch panel. Since the Lightning has no gas fumes I kept the system all in the garage. The reason it works with the truck's GFI is the ground from the truck is not connected to the transfer panel. Some people have technical issues with that. But if there is a grounding issue the house GFI will detect it and shut of power.

 

[cdherman]

I just ordered an interlock kit for my main panel that’s outside the cabin.


I was going to just do a back-feed and use a checklist. But after finding an interlock kit for my panel I bought it as well. https://interlockkit.com/ This eliminates potential to back-feed into grid.

I just received a breaker panel interlock kit for my main input power panel that’s mounted on the outside wall of our cabin. Also ordered a 30 amp generator inlet box and a 30 amp generator cable. Hope to get it all installed next week.

I had never seen that company before. Would have saved me some money and effort a few years ago -- only product of that nature I could find was a Square D 100A sub panel, so that's what I now have for my home,, with critical loads moved to the sub. But I could have used a kit from www.interlockkit.com and never moved nothing.........

That's a real nice option I think. Of course, does NOT solve the bonded neutral issue. Since we cannot whisper non-code solutions, I will leave it at that.

 

[Lytning]

: ALL of the power OUTLETS in the truck bed, cab, and frunk, are available at the SAME TIME...

but, of course, you are limited to 'how much' each CIRCUIT can provide, at any given time... so...

: The CAB and FRUNK is powered by an inverter mounting under the frunk. This provides 120v power thru a 20amp single CIRCUIT, which is 20 x 120 = 2,400 'watts' of potential maximum power. Now, just because you have a total of 6 outlets between the cab and the frunk does not mean that each one has 20amps, even though they are 20amp outlets - the 'combined' output for all of them at the same TIME is 20amps. But, this is typically plenty for several things to happen together - whether charging you laptop and ipad in the cab, and running a hot pot or mini-fridge, or tools, from the frunk. As long as all of those together do not exceed 20amps, you are good to go.
: For those WITHOUT ProPower, as an option, will also have several BED outlets, which run off the same 120v inverter the Cab and Frunk outlets do: The same rules apply as they are on the same circuit as the others.

: The BED, for those WITH ProPower, will have not only the 240v 30amp 'twist lock' outlet, but also a couple more 120v 20amp outlets. These are all powered from a separate 240v Inverter, mounted above the rear motor. This provides up to 7,200 watts of power, which is a max of 30amps at 240volts, or a combination of 240v power AND the additional 120v outlets being powered at the same time. You could run your HOUSE from the 240v outlet, and STILL be able to use power from the bed outlets, again, as long as the two combined power outputs don't exceed the 7,200 total watts.

If you want to make use of almost ALL of the truck's output power of a combined 9,600 watts, you could use the frunk, cab, and several bed outlets, AND the 240v bed outlet, all at the same time... in various ways(generally extension cords and/or devices/appliances plugged directly into the outlets)... if it were really needed.
The design and capability of the ProPower output and outlet choices, with the TWO separate inverters, gives us MANY choices and ways to 'draw' that power, when needed, for MANY different situations. You could even be Charging another ELECTRIC VEHICLE, while at the same time, powering your mini-fridge in the bed, charging your devices in the cab, and cooking some 'tail gating' meals in the Frunk : )

Regarding " You could run your HOUSE from the 240v outlet, and STILL be able to use power from the bed outlets, again, as long as the two combined power outputs don't exceed the 7,200 total watts."

It is almost

One caveat - in order to utilize the full 7200, any 120V loads must be perfectly balanced across the two legs. You can’t pull over 30A from either side.

It is virtually assured that there will be some level of imbalance across the (2) 120V legs of the 240V outlet when using the cord with (4) 120V outlets. Some loads, like a refrigerator, are intermittent. Does an imbalance create any issue with the inverter, circuit breakers, cable heat, etc.? How much of an imbalance is acceptable?

 

[Maquis]

It is virtually assured that there will be some level of imbalance across the (2) 120V legs of the 240V outlet when using the cord with (4) 120V outlets. Some loads, like a refrigerator, are intermittent. Does an imbalance create any issue with the inverter, circuit breakers, cable heat, etc.? How much of an imbalance is acceptable?

The imbalance in itself isn’t a problem. It just has the effect of reducing the available power. You can load one side to 100% (30A) and the other to 0% without issue. But in that example, the power output is 3.6 KW, not 7.2.

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