Powerboost 7.2kW Towing Travel Trailer - First hookup and test results

[daemonic3]

For all of you who are now towing - and if you are using a WD Hitch - did you disable your anti-sway control? And what if anything did you notice about sway, for either or both conditions?

Jack

Is there a reason to? I've never even considered it but now I'm wondering why you ask...

My understanding is the hitch adds physical resistance to just free swiveling on the ball, and the truck slows down if it feels some fishtailing. You have me worried and wanting to google now...

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[MitchAK]

Very excited to use our PB for camping this year. Have a small Springdale 189FLWE, <6k loaded and wet.
Still plenty of snow on the ground for me, but I was very pleased to read your thread. Very well written, thanks!

 

[TKOden]

Thank you for your fantastic writeup. We will be pulling our Imagine 3000QB with the truck and look forward to being able to pull over and make lunch or boondock if needed. Have you posted this writeup to any of the Grand Design facebook pages?

 

[laujoyjoy]

One more question: Did you leave the 7-pin plug connected, or strictly the propower?

I unhooked my 7 pin when boondock. Thinking not to stress the truck's own 12V system.

 

[Jack in Prescott]

daemonic3, my impression is there's no widely accepted view on whether a TV's anti-sway system should be disabled, which is why I'm asking what you folks' own personal experiences have been to date when towing. E.g. this is how my WDH manual addresses the disabling of a TV's anti-sway feature:

"The Andersen WD Hitch features its own sway controls that are designed to auto-adjust to the load in your trailer and prevent trailer sway when installed properly. Unfortunately, some newer electronic anti-sway systems can misread the anti-sway efforts of the Andersen WD Hitch and the anti-sway system may actually cause the trailer to sway as the two systems work against each other.
These potential issues typically occur with electronic anti-sway systems that are designed to detect trailer sway and automatically use the vehicle brakes to help control the sway. Please note that this type of anti-sway system is different from electronic traction control, which does not cause this type of problem. If you experience this type of issue, you will need to turn off the electronic anti-sway in your vehicle in order to tow with the Andersen WD Hitch.
This issue is most likely to occur in 2011 and newer truck models from Ford, GMC, Dodge, and Chevy. Refer to your tow vehicle’s owners manual to determine if you have electronic anti-sway and how to disable it while using the WD Hitch to tow."

Now...that's one WDH manufacturer's view on the topic. But others question whether a hitch manufacturer is the best source for that advice when TV manufacturers like Ford are the experts on their own anti-sway algorithm and should be the ones to offer an opinion on this. Perhaps I've missed it but I haven't found this being addressed in Ford's lengthy, excellent towing publication. It only discusses the trailer anti-sway feature in general terms on p. 6.

And then there is another way to consider this issue and that's by applying simple logic: A good WDH will inhibit sway from developing and so 'pre-empts' the need for the TV's anti-sway system to function. BUT...should sway develop despite the WDH's function (e.g. extreme conditions of gusty crosswinds, poor trailer loading, passing traffic, etc.) then you'd want the TV's anti-sway system to kick in, which is likely to apply trailer brakes and slow the TV's speed and thereby help the WDH regain sway control.

Seems quite a debate exists around this. My hunch: What matters most is what we experience with our F150's while towing, so hopefully folks will share their own impressions as the camping season unfolds.

Jack

 

[daemonic3]

Thank you for your fantastic writeup. We will be pulling our Imagine 3000QB with the truck and look forward to being able to pull over and make lunch or boondock if needed. Have you posted this writeup to any of the Grand Design facebook pages?

I have not! I hate facebook after learning just how dumb and annoying people I grew up with turned out to be hahhaa

I may post to one of the grand design message boards though. Just need a little time and ambition.

 

[daemonic3]

I unhooked my 7 pin when boondock. Thinking not to stress the truck's own 12V system.

Probably best. Your comment about possibly needing to recharge the truck's 12V battery had me thinking maybe you left it plugged. I have done that overnight while plugged into shore power and not had an issue but I think I'll unplug for boondocking.

 

[daemonic3]

daemonic3, my impression is there's no widely accepted view on whether a TV's anti-sway system should be disabled, which is why I'm asking what you folks' own personal experiences have been to date when towing. E.g. this is how my WDH manual addresses the disabling of a TV's anti-sway feature:

"The Andersen WD Hitch features its own sway controls that are designed to auto-adjust to the load in your trailer and prevent trailer sway when installed properly. Unfortunately, some newer electronic anti-sway systems can misread the anti-sway efforts of the Andersen WD Hitch and the anti-sway system may actually cause the trailer to sway as the two systems work against each other.
These potential issues typically occur with electronic anti-sway systems that are designed to detect trailer sway and automatically use the vehicle brakes to help control the sway. Please note that this type of anti-sway system is different from electronic traction control, which does not cause this type of problem. If you experience this type of issue, you will need to turn off the electronic anti-sway in your vehicle in order to tow with the Andersen WD Hitch.
This issue is most likely to occur in 2011 and newer truck models from Ford, GMC, Dodge, and Chevy. Refer to your tow vehicle’s owners manual to determine if you have electronic anti-sway and how to disable it while using the WD Hitch to tow."

Now...that's one WDH manufacturer's view on the topic. But others question whether a hitch manufacturer is the best source for that advice when TV manufacturers like Ford are the experts on their own anti-sway algorithm and should be the ones to offer an opinion on this. Perhaps I've missed it but I haven't found this being addressed in Ford's lengthy, excellent towing publication. It only discusses the trailer anti-sway feature in general terms on p. 6.

And then there is another way to consider this issue and that's by applying simple logic: A good WDH will inhibit sway from developing and so 'pre-empts' the need for the TV's anti-sway system to function. BUT...should sway develop despite the WDH's function (e.g. extreme conditions of gusty crosswinds, poor trailer loading, passing traffic, etc.) then you'd want the TV's anti-sway system to kick in, which is likely to apply trailer brakes and slow the TV's speed and thereby help the WDH regain sway control.

Seems quite a debate exists around this. My hunch: What matters most is what we experience with our F150's while towing, so hopefully folks will share their own impressions as the camping season unfolds.

Jack

That's fascinating! I had never even considered disabling it but will check my WDH manufacturer recommendations now too. I use a Reese Steadi-flex as shown in my pics, per recommendation from the father in law who has about 50 years of towing experience of all types. This is my exact model, I ordered from etrailer (happened to be less than amazon at the time): https://www.reese-hitches.com/products/Reese_Steadi_Flex_Weight_Distribution_Kit___1_200_lbs,66560

My "problem" is that I have yet to experience sway buildup so I cannot give any data from experience for you. I have had pretty major crosswinds on interstate 680, interstate 5, and tehachapi pass, but just slowed to 55mph and I have not ever had resonance where sway builds. Is it my hitch with the friction bars? Maybe! Or more likely the winds were not severe enough. I've always checked conditions before leaving and worst I have been through predicted 28mph on the weather app and I planned to stop if I noticed sway but I didn't. I have not used another travel trailer, WDH, or tow vehicle either so I have absolutely zero to compare to.

 

[michaelspalding313]

Fantastic post! I have the 2021 F150 Lariat PB 7.2KW and the 7350# GVWR package - what is your trailer weight and truck rating?

Also - love to hear/learn more about the gear lockout... is that a setting on the fly?

 

[daemonic3]

Fantastic post! I have the 2021 F150 Lariat PB 7.2KW and the 7350# GVWR package - what is your trailer weight and truck rating?

Also - love to hear/learn more about the gear lockout... is that a setting on the fly?

My truck is a paltry 1265# payload, but that was known and a conscious choice to trade luxury for payload. This was done knowing that my teens likely won't be with us on every trip and we'll probably only take them on shorter trips anyway, or only 1 teen. One has a job and will be off to college soon, and I want this truck for longer term. My previous EB we went over payload on shorter trips with the teens and dogs plus a 250# camper shell. Truck had zero issues but I would not do this cross country or full timing, nor recommend it for everyone.

When I weighed the loaded trailer previously it threw roughly 7600# across all axles (GVWR is 7995#), with my best estimate of my truck's curb weight (plus accessories like shell, mats, and 1/2 tank fuel) at the time. I have upgraded the trailer tires and suspension from factory specs, and have shifted more weight over the axles since then and gotten tongue down to the low 800's (just enough fresh water for some toilet flushes). I have not taken my new setup to the scales yet. The powerboost has way more per-axle margin (3900# front, 4150# rear, but only 7350# total) than my previous EB where the sum of the axles was basically also the GVWR. I actually feel more comfortable with this truck's margin than my previous EB with 1669# payload!

As for gear lockout, there are small +/- buttons on your shifter (on the console one at least). You can downshift and lock out higher gears, but you cannot force an upshift, you can only "allow" them. By default you allow all gears unless you know how to hit the "-" button. Your instrument cluster (depending on trim) should have a 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 indicator or a x/10 indicator.

 

[Klinter]

Very good write up! I have the Imagine 2400bh and my Lariat PB is coming tomorrow, very excited to do done testing and camping. My unit is only 30 amps, one ac unit, but I plan on powering my friends trailer while camping so I got the split dog bone.

Can you link to information about 7th gear being ideal? I imagine the speed at which you tow makes a big difference. I'm comfortable towing at 70-75 and that was connected to a Jeep! Will be even more comfortable in the truck. I would have always guessed the lower the rpms while on freeway the better....seems to be moreso keeping it in thenl power band? Or out of boost?

Awesome feature tracking mileage per trailer, had no idea!

Can you post model of the split Dog Bone you are using? I assume its a split to 2 - 120V 30A. I might need one if ever to power friends trailers. Thanks. Also awesome original post. Hope to get my Lariat PB in 6 to 8 weeks.

 

[uavmx]

Can you post model of the split Dog Bone you are using? I assume its a split to 2 - 120V 30A. I might need one if ever to power friends trailers. Thanks. Also awesome original post. Hope to get my Lariat PB in 6 to 8 weeks.

Here's what I bought, but I haven't tested it yet. Truck is sitting at the local rail yard and they can't seem to get it for me.....

Parkworld 60646 Splitter L14-30P... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P4DFX5H?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

[Bearii]

7.2kW Propower with 50A service:

I thought this would go flawlessly but I did have a hiccup getting started.... My initial connection from Propower to trailer was: L14-30 to 14-50 dogbone -> 15 foot 50A extension -> 50A Surge Guard -> 30 foot 50A shore power cable.

Immediately when turned on the Surge Guard indicated a warning and set a 2 minute wait. Then it would cause a ground fault in the Propower instantly. I went through several rounds of resetting Propower. Happened Every. Single. Time. I needed to debug and after ruling out several things I tried this order: L14-30 to 14-50 dogbone -> 50A Surge Guard -> 15 foot 50A extension -> 30 foot 50A shore power cable. IT WORKED! Zero problems. I think since the Surge Guard does a series of tests, it needs to be AT what is the equivalent of the pedestal. So it has to be as close to the source as possible....

What a great series of posts! Thank you for the info. Quick question, my TT has 30a service. I was planning on getting a dogbone for the single 30a, doubt I'd ever use the splitter. I too have the 7.2kW Propower option. Do you know, when connected will my TT have access to the full 7.2kW or only one half of the total power (3.6kW)?

 

[Hullguy]

What a great series of posts! Thank you for the info. Quick question, my TT has 30a service. I was planning on getting a dogbone for the single 30a, doubt I'd ever use the splitter. I too have the 7.2kW Propower option. Do you know, when connected will my TT have access to the full 7.2kW or only one half of the total power (3.6kW)?

3600 watts. 30 amps x 120 volts=3600watts

 

[Bearii]

3600 watts. 30 amps x 120 volts=3600watts

Ok, that was clearly a "lacking coffee on my part" question! Have to remind myself, stay away from the keyboard before first coffee is complete! TY

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