Pro Audio Upgrade

[beatle]

with the 'frunk', we'll have no issues with ANY sound system we want to employ....roomy, easy, short wiring, easy access - woop!

Careful using the word "any." We're actually pretty limited. 55A is the max that we can add according to the doc referenced on this thread:

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/thr...–-w-12v-battery-power-and-ground-points.7461/

55A @ 12v is only 660w. Now, I wonder if we can actually add more powerful amps since they do not run at 100% duty cycle. The doc also mentions that the 12v battery is not charged while the truck is on, but I wonder if the DC to DC converter is shut off entirely. I would not think so. The converter is capable of 220A which is pretty significant. I'm pretty sure the AC compressor and battery + cabin heaters are powered directly off the HV battery so there aren't too many high 12v loads.

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[sotek2345]

Careful using the word "any." We're actually pretty limited. 55A is the max that we can add according to the doc referenced on this thread:

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/f-150-lightning-electrical-system-overview-–-w-12v-battery-power-and-ground-points.7461/

55A @ 12v is only 660w. Now, I wonder if we can actually add more powerful amps since they do not run at 100% duty cycle. The doc also mentions that the 12v battery is not charged while the truck is on, but I wonder if the DC to DC converter is shut off entirely. I would not think so. The converter is capable of 220A which is pretty significant. I'm pretty sure the AC compressor and battery + cabin heaters are powered directly off the HV battery so there aren't too many high 12v loads.

You could always use 120V equipment instead of 12V. Integrating into the head unit would be interesting though. If you really want to go nuts, run off of the 240V circuit in the bed!

 

[beatle]

There are a lot of issues using 120v audio equipment in a car, electric or not. It's true that the circuits for the AC output have more capacity than the advertised 660w that you can swing per Ford's spec on the 12v line but...

1. Home/pro audio is often more expensive
2. Lack of advanced integrated DSPs on 120v
3. Efficiency loss from multiple conversions (DC>>AC>>DC)
4. 120v amps are often in much larger form factor than car audio
5. 120v not designed for extreme temperatures as seen in a vehicle, or loud fans may be part of the device.

I think it would be cool to tailgate with a pro amp and a phone, but not as part of a daily driver.

 

[beatle]

Reviving this thread as I had another thought about power availability.

The B&O system on the Platinum uses 1080 watts, and the B&O system on the Lariat uses 640 watts. If you effectively bypass their use by running aftermarket amps, I'd think you'd have a lot more juice to play with.

 

[RavenYZF-R6]

When in college and a student without much money, I built a couple serious audio systems.

I would usually stick with one or two brands. Sony or Pioneer head units. Then Pioneer amps and component speakers and subs etc...

Then I could afford nice cars with premium sound systems and I didn't have to upgrade the audio systems any more, besides the F-150. My current F-150 I put a Kenwood CarPlay head unit and Kenwood speakers.

For the Lightning I'm fairly certain I'm going with Rockford Fosgate component speakers and maybe their amps.

• Rockford Fosgate Punch 6.75 or 6.5 components w/ crossover for the front doors
• Rockford Fosgate Power series 6.5 2-way for the rear doors, I like the tweeter placement/ angled perfectly for the bottom of the rear doors.

I'm digging the AudioControl compact mini amps. I like the integral high-level inputs. It saves me from having to buy a AudioControl LC7i Black 6-Channel Line Output Converter to work with other amps.

• AudioControl ACM-4.300 50W x 4 compact mini amplifier
• AudioControl ACM-1.300 300W x 1 compact mini amplifier for sub(s)

Also considering, if I don't go with the AC amp.

• Rockford Fosgate R2-300X4 300-Watt 4-Channel amplifier OR
• Rockford Fosgate R2-500X4 500-Watt 4-Channel amplifier
• Rockford Fosgate R2-500X1 500-Watt mono amplifier for the sub(s)

I'm going to wait until Lightning arrives before settling on what I'm purchasing. I want to tear apart the frunk to see what's behind the plastic tub.

To see if there is room for a mini amp rack near the 12V battery. Short run for line inputs and speaker outputs. That's why I'm liking the AudioControl mini amps for this truck.

Youtube video of how small and powerful these AudioControl mini amps are.






Instead of going to the traditional spot behind the rear seats.

Figured I’d bump this to the top and see if your plans have changed at all and I have a few stupid Qs.

Are the factory speaker wires okay to use for the new door speakers? I imagine they are pretty small.

Does the little crossover unit with the component sets require a power wire and ground like an amp?

 

[beatle]

Upgrading the factory speaker wires is always a waste of time and money when installing newer speakers, and almost always a waste of time when installing an amp.

Crossovers included with speakers are passive, not active, so there are no additional wires for power; you just use the existing speaker wires and route them into/out of the crossover and to the new speakers.

 

[hturnerfamily]

one question I have: does the stock 'head unit' have RCA outputs?

 

[RavenYZF-R6]

one question I have: does the stock 'head unit' have RCA outputs?

I don’t believe so. I think most people are using the plug n play kit to a converter like the LC7i or using the audio control ACM amps that have the feature built in.

 

[smaye1]

Following. When I get my truck the speakers will be the first thing I swap. Interested to see what your setup will be and how it will sound for my reference.

 

[Fast4U]

The question is how far you want to take it. I know this is an old thread but for those that dont want to guess. I have this

https://soundsgoodstereo.com/produc...e-seat-stereo-upgrade-b-o-including-unleashed

 

[AJB]

When in college and a student without much money, I built a couple serious audio systems.

I would usually stick with one or two brands. Sony or Pioneer head units. Then Pioneer amps and component speakers and subs etc...

Then I could afford nice cars with premium sound systems and I didn't have to upgrade the audio systems any more, besides the F-150. My current F-150 I put a Kenwood CarPlay head unit and Kenwood speakers.

For the Lightning I'm fairly certain I'm going with Rockford Fosgate component speakers and maybe their amps.

• Rockford Fosgate Punch 6.75 or 6.5 components w/ crossover for the front doors
• Rockford Fosgate Power series 6.5 2-way for the rear doors, I like the tweeter placement/ angled perfectly for the bottom of the rear doors.

I'm digging the AudioControl compact mini amps. I like the integral high-level inputs. It saves me from having to buy a AudioControl LC7i Black 6-Channel Line Output Converter to work with other amps.

• AudioControl ACM-4.300 50W x 4 compact mini amplifier
• AudioControl ACM-1.300 300W x 1 compact mini amplifier for sub(s)

Also considering, if I don't go with the AC amp.

• Rockford Fosgate R2-300X4 300-Watt 4-Channel amplifier OR
• Rockford Fosgate R2-500X4 500-Watt 4-Channel amplifier
• Rockford Fosgate R2-500X1 500-Watt mono amplifier for the sub(s)

I'm going to wait until Lightning arrives before settling on what I'm purchasing. I want to tear apart the frunk to see what's behind the plastic tub.

To see if there is room for a mini amp rack near the 12V battery. Short run for line inputs and speaker outputs. That's why I'm liking the AudioControl mini amps for this truck.

Youtube video of how small and powerful these AudioControl mini amps are.






Instead of going to the traditional spot behind the rear seats.

When in college and a student without much money, I built a couple serious audio systems.

I would usually stick with one or two brands. Sony or Pioneer head units. Then Pioneer amps and component speakers and subs etc...

Then I could afford nice cars with premium sound systems and I didn't have to upgrade the audio systems any more, besides the F-150. My current F-150 I put a Kenwood CarPlay head unit and Kenwood speakers.

For the Lightning I'm fairly certain I'm going with Rockford Fosgate component speakers and maybe their amps.

• Rockford Fosgate Punch 6.75 or 6.5 components w/ crossover for the front doors
• Rockford Fosgate Power series 6.5 2-way for the rear doors, I like the tweeter placement/ angled perfectly for the bottom of the rear doors.

I'm digging the AudioControl compact mini amps. I like the integral high-level inputs. It saves me from having to buy a AudioControl LC7i Black 6-Channel Line Output Converter to work with other amps.

• AudioControl ACM-4.300 50W x 4 compact mini amplifier
• AudioControl ACM-1.300 300W x 1 compact mini amplifier for sub(s)

Also considering, if I don't go with the AC amp.

• Rockford Fosgate R2-300X4 300-Watt 4-Channel amplifier OR
• Rockford Fosgate R2-500X4 500-Watt 4-Channel amplifier
• Rockford Fosgate R2-500X1 500-Watt mono amplifier for the sub(s)

I'm going to wait until Lightning arrives before settling on what I'm purchasing. I want to tear apart the frunk to see what's behind the plastic tub.

To see if there is room for a mini amp rack near the 12V battery. Short run for line inputs and speaker outputs. That's why I'm liking the AudioControl mini amps for this truck.

Youtube video of how small and powerful these AudioControl mini amps are.






Instead of going to the traditional spot behind the rear seats.

I’m looking to upgrade the speakers in my 2022 lighting pro. What size speakers were in the front and back? And do you have any recommendations on what to get? Having a hard time finding sizes and harnesses. Don’t want to pull the door off until I have the parts.

 

[asianman35]

I’m looking to upgrade the speakers in my 2022 lighting pro. What size speakers were in the front and back? And do you have any recommendations on what to get? Having a hard time finding sizes and harnesses. Don’t want to pull the door off until I have the parts.

I was going to use these because they are plug n play, I dont need top of the line by any means, just something better than stock.

for the fronts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DWHP1RM
for the rears: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DWF9DX1

 

[kwalt21]

I am adding a under seat subwoofer and plan to use my 100A 12v power supply as the 12v source instead of the LV battery and just plugging the power supply into the 110V outlet in the back of the center console. Benefits being I can remove the stuff quick and I don't have to worry about the tiny 12v battery that is in the truck currently.

 

[AJB]

I was going to use these because they are plug n play, I dont need top of the line by any means, just something better than stock.

for the fronts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DWHP1RM
for the rears: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DWF9DX1

Thanks! I’m going to give them a try. Seems easy.

 

[BennyTheBeaver]

So, I'm about to install my new component speakers in the front of my Pro (weather is nicer again). I'm stuck on a single issue. I was going to utilize the wiring in the truck to save time however I can figure out where the tweeter and front door speakers split. There is a single output going to the front door and tweeter and I assume Ford has a crossover somewhere between the head unit and the speakers.

If anyone has knowledge of that location it would greatly assist in me adding the crossovers that came with my component set.

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