Real-World Home Power Backup Options Using F-150 Lightning

[Acacia1731]

Here’s another option, allowing a generator hookup to a single circuit. Worked great to run my furnace (which I needed because my main panel won’t support a normal interlock).

https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...rnace-blower-using-ez-generator-switch.13133/

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[JC688]

Realistically, how much more power does option A/B provide vs option C? Both are 9.6 kw, option A is 37.5 amps and option C is 30 amps. Automatic transfer switch is not important to me.

 

[phildickerson]

Hey folks!! It took me a while to get my home power situation figured out, but yesterday, I was able to use Option E - hooking the Pro Power Onboard to a generator inlet. I thought it might be useful to share that experience, so here goes!

We are having solar installed, so it was a good time to address using the Lightning. I had already decided against SunRun because I already have an EV charger (non-Ford) and I already had 14 solar panels.

What we added is another dozen or so panels, but this time with a Tesla Gateway and two PowerWall batteries. All of that was in the range of double what SunRun would've cost, but i would only have gotten the Ford integration. Anyway, decided to go with a more typical solar system and use the Lightning as a backup to the backup.

So, what we had done was very, very simple. A generator inlet leads to a breaker in the main panel. That breaker has an interlock so that the main must be shut off to use the generator inlet. Bought a 25-ft generator cord, which goes from the Lightning to the inlet.

Immediately got the ground fault when all this was hooked up. But, in other threads on this forum, it was suggested to remove the ground pin. My electrician thought about that for a few minutes and decided it was safe and reasonable. That made everything work!

I was able to watch the Pro Power screen and see the wattage draw in realtime as we switched things on in the main panel.

Frankly, I do not know if it is code compliant, but, my electrician felt it was perfectly safe. He even pointed out that the Tesla Gateway works the same way, in that it has no earth ground and relies upon the main panel to provide a ground. He reasoned that the Lightning is acting as the Tesla Gateway when I use it.

Do note, this is not an automated solution. I will have to flip breakers to use the truck and I may have to turn off the Tesla Gateway. We are awaiting the inspector before I can really jump in and play with it.

 

[v2h8484]

He even pointed out that the Tesla Gateway works the same way, in that it has no earth ground and relies upon the main panel to provide a ground. He reasoned that the Lightning is acting as the Tesla Gateway when I use it.

That's an invalid comparison. The Lightning is an actual power source not a gateway. A more valid comparison would be Lightning vs Powewall.

 

[phildickerson]

Yes, I see your point! He was comparing the grounding of the Gateway versus the Lightning, saying that neither has an actual earth ground. But, they are very, very different devices, for sure! I think he was trying to provide a non-earth-grounded example and we were standing right by the Gateway.

All that said, I bet the PowerWalls are also not earth grounded, but I don't know that for sure!

 

[abel408]

Like @Joneii I have two Delta-Pro's with two extra batteries, and a smart home panel for key circuit backup in the house, but I still want to take advantage of the trucks 30 amp output to replenish the DP's

Hey @TaxmanHog . I hate to bring up an old thread, but I'm doing some research on this and really like the idea of Eco Flows smart control kit apired with the eco flow delta pros. Do you know if it's possible to charge the delta pros with the lightning while they are supplying power to the house?

 

[TaxmanHog]

Hey @TaxmanHog . I hate to bring up an old thread, but I'm doing some research on this and really like the idea of Eco Flows smart control kit paired with the ecoflow delta pros. Do you know if it's possible to charge the delta pros with the lightning while they are supplying power to the house?

I have not finished the setup yet, waiting on some assistance from my licensed electrician nephew to install the smart home panel [SHP], for now I use each DP/EB pair separately, one backs up the kitchen fridge the other the oil fired steam boiler.

I anticipate issues with the bonded neutral on the main load center where the SHP's 30 amp 240 feeder/sense will complicate the setup, so my plan is to run the critical loads through the SHP drawing on one DP & EB group, while keeping the second pair offline (disconnected) from the infinity cable, then feed it with power from the Lightning with a dedicated 20 amp 120 circuit from the trucks bed. I can trade either pair back and forth as needed for long term outages.

With winter only 6-8 weeks away, I need to get this project wrapped up.

 

[abel408]

I have not finished the setup yet, waiting on some assistance from my licensed electrician nephew to install the smart home panel [SHP], for now I use each DP/EB pair separately, one backs up the kitchen fridge the other the oil fired steam boiler.

I anticipate issues with the bonded neutral on the main load center where the SHP's 30 amp 240 feeder/sense will complicate the setup, so my plan is to run the critical loads through the SHP drawing on one DP & EB group, while keeping the second pair offline (disconnected) from the infinity cable, then feed it with power from the Lightning with a dedicated 20 amp 120 circuit from the trucks bed. I can trade either pair back and forth as needed for long term outages.

With winter only 6-8 weeks away, I need to get this project wrapped up.

Thanks for that information. Seems like a much more affordable way to using the lightning to power your house and has the advantage of keeping the house powered if you have to use the truck. Only downside is having to swap Delta Pros every now and then. I assume the Delta Pros don't support passthrough charging when being used to provide power to the SHP? I was hoping to plug the lightning into the Delta Pro to charge while the using the same Delta Pro to provide power to the SHP.

 

[TaxmanHog]

Thanks for that information. Seems like a much more affordable way to using the lightning to power your house and has the advantage of keeping the house powered if you have to use the truck. Only downside is having to swap Delta Pros every now and then. I assume the Delta Pros don't support passthrough charging when being used to provide power to the SHP? I was hoping to plug the lightning into the Delta Pro to charge while the using the same Delta Pro to provide power to the SHP.

In that scenario, the DP might think the grid has been restored and switch to pass-through mode, at which time energy (still coming from the Lightning) will charge the Delta pro's [DP], but the pass through relays would have nothing coming from the grid to send to my loads.

Setting up a critical loads sub panel will solve several issues, it won't have a bonded neutral, avoiding a GFCI trip on the truck, my critical loads (hot, ground and neutrals) will be in the subpanel, as well as a 240v breaker to feed the two DP's with charging current.

Then an automatic transfer switch routing the grid feed to the sub panel, but when grid goes down the switch will transfer to the Lightning if/when it's connected to PPOB or my propane generator.

This would allow me to intermittently connect the Lightning when parked to help supply current to the critical loads and a charging current back to the DP's for the next period when the truck is not available (being driven). 7.2kw should be sufficient run my critical loads and supply a charging current to the DP's.

Sounds like a lot of work, I'm not 100% certain I will go this route trying to integrate the Lightning into the DP system.

 

[EvilUser007]

RE: Lightning and Sol-Ark Generator input:
I received an quick, detailed and awesome response from Sol-Ark Support. FWIW here is the options as they laid them out.




1. Understand the "Floating Neutral"

• A floating neutral means the neutral conductor is not bonded to the ground inside the generator (the truck in this case). This configuration avoids potential grounding conflicts when connected to an existing electrical system.
• The Sol-Ark inverter expects a bonded neutral-ground connection when operating in generator mode.

​

2. Use a Transfer Switch

• A manual or automatic transfer switch is crucial for isolating your home from the utility grid when running off the truck generator. This prevents backfeeding into the grid, which is both illegal and dangerous.
• The transfer switch will manage the connection between the generator (truck) and your home's electrical system.

​

3. Neutral-Ground Bonding Plug (if required)

• If the Sol-Ark detects a "floating neutral," it may trigger a warning or fail to detect the generator. You can address this by using a neutral-ground bonding plug:
  
  • What it is: A simple plug that connects the neutral and ground at the generator’s outlet.
  • How to make one: Use a male plug (NEMA 5-15P or similar) and connect the neutral (silver terminal) to the ground (green terminal) inside the plug with a short wire.
  • Insert the bonding plug into one of the 120V outlets on the truck.

​

4. Wiring the NEMA 14-30L Plug

• The truck’s 14-30L receptacle outputs:
  
  • Two hot legs (L1 and L2) providing 240V.
  • Neutral.
  • Ground.
• For the Sol-Ark input, you need to wire the plug as follows:
  
  • L1 and L2: Connect the two hot legs from the truck to the corresponding input terminals on the Sol-Ark.
  • Neutral: Connect the neutral to the neutral terminal on the Sol-Ark.
  • Ground: Connect the ground to the ground terminal on the Sol-Ark.

​

5. Verify Grounding

• The Sol-Ark should have a proper ground connection to your home’s grounding system.
• Ensure the generator ground from the truck is either connected directly to the home grounding electrode system (via the Sol-Ark) or properly isolated if required by local codes.

​

6. Testing the Setup

• Before energizing, verify all connections with a multimeter to ensure there are no shorts or miswiring.
• Test the generator mode on the Sol-Ark with a light load to confirm proper operation.

​

7. Safety and Compliance

• Cutting off grounding pins or bypassing safety mechanisms is unsafe and against electrical codes. Always use properly rated and listed equipment.
• Consult a licensed electrician to ensure your setup complies with local codes and standards.

​

Let me know if you'd like diagrams or further clarification on any steps!





Francisco Moreno


Level 2 Technical Support Specialist

 

[Traconesu]

Hi there - first time posting, big-time F-150 Lightning fan!

Here today as I've spent hours reading as many forum posts and electrician articles about possibilities to use the F-150 as a backup generator. However, many of these posts get in-depth on the "why" a particular solution won't work (particularly around F-150 outlets being netural-bonded / GFCI), but not necessarily exact specifics on how to make it work.

Personally, I'm trying to find the most cost-effective option that allows me to use a standard generator inlet (ideally without the added cost/complexity of a transfer switch), so I'm torn between options C and D below (assuming E isn't really an option).

This is what I've found in order of cost - with a few questions:

• A) Sunrun-Installed Home Integration System + Ford Charge Station Pro ($9,400)
  • Pro: Theoretically the "correct" solution offering the most power out of the truck and as easy as calling Sunrun
  • Con: Most expensive, large equipment, only EVs with a combo charging port can use the CSP (e.g. no plug-in hybrids with a basic J1772 - at least I couldn't find an adapter), Sunrun may not be the easiest to work with
    • Question: Anyone know of a J1772 to J1772 CCS1 adapter?
• B) Non-Sunrun Installed HIS + Ford CSP (Estimating $5k to $9k range)
  • Pro: Theoretically adds some cost savings / customer service improvement using your own electrician
  • Con: Might have issues if electrician isn't familiar with this kind of equipment
  • Detail: $3,895 minimum for the equipment (assuming the CSP came with your truck), so as long as your electrician quotes less than $5,505 you should be saving some $$$
• C) Neutral-Switching Transfer Switch + Generator Inlet + 240v Bed Outlet + Cord (Estimating $3k-$5k including EVSE install)
  • Pro: Substantially cheaper than HIS. Flexible backup option as you can just use a regular portable generator and makes your house "generator ready". Forces you to identify and limit backup power to the "critical" circuits in your house, but you don't have to deal with load management as much later (some may see this as a con)
  • Con: Requires a very specific type of transfer switch that is "Neutral Switching". To the best of my knowledge, I can only find 2 options readily available (Reliance used to have one, but recently discontinued it at least as of Dec 2022)
    • Generac 9854 (50A)- $620 - I know the truck outlet is 30A, but I like this option to maximize options, e.g. portable generator
      • To connect a 50A inlet to the truck's 30A outlet, I'm considering using this adapter + a regular 50A generator cord.
    • Generac 6852 (30A) - $380
    • Question: Can anyone share a link to any other readily-available 50A or 30A "Neutral-Switching Transfer Switches"?
  • Detail: As part of this, I actually had the Clipper Creek HCS-80 HVSE installed ($1,066 on Amazon + $1.6k installation for me including local permit) since I didn't want the J1772 Combo plug and big Ford branding.
• D) Basic Generator Inlet + Interlocked Breaker + Cord + Generator (Estimating $3-$4k including a $1k generator and EVSE install)
  • Pro: Eliminate the neutral-bonded / GFCI discussion and just buy a compatible portable gas generator
  • Con: You have to worry about storing, fueling and maintaining a portable gas generator + noise when it's running
• E) Basic Generator Inlet + Interlocked Breaker + Cord (Estimating $2-$3k if it can be done including EVSE install)
  • ***There is a good chance this is NOT possible due to the neutral-bonded / GFCI aspect of the truck outlets***
  • Pro: Theoretically least expensive/complex option. Allows full flexibility in your main panel of what to turn on if using backup power.
  • Con: Doesn't appear this can be done and meet NEC code requirements (e.g. without messing with disconnecting grounds, etc.)
  • Question: Does anyone know a code-compliant way to do this?
• F) Extension Cords + 120v outlets (Under $200)
  • Pro: Just plug in and go!
  • Con: May have power loss on very long extension cords. Not very aesthetically pleasing. Not sure if this is NEC acceptable.
  • Detail: This literally means plugging a regular extension cord into the 120v outlets and running into the house through doorways/windows etc in an emergency situation.

Phew - that was a lot. If I missed any options, let me know and I'm happy to update this post!

NEC probably says this isn't code but works fine for my application. My main service panel has a bonded neutral as does the lightning output. I purchased a 30 foot drop cord that plugs into my lightning 240 volt bed receptical. The female end plugs into a male receptical located at my main service panel. This receptical is connected to a 30 amp interlocked breaker with my main breaker with a neutral wire to the panels neutral busses bar. This receptical has no ground wire which would generate a ground fault with the truck and shutdown the inverter. Since my panels ground and neutral have the same potential and my trucks ground and neutral has the same potential all my equipment sees my truck the same as the grid. There's no more danger to myself or my home then there would be if I plugged a 240 volt device directly into the truck receptical because both the truck and the main panels neutral are tied together through the dropcord and both have a bonded neutral. I've ran my home using this application many times with no equipment failures. Of course I have to limit my load to 7200 watts. Cost was minimum. Interlock plate, 30 amp 2-pole breaker, 30' 240 volt twistlock dropcord, male 30 amp twistlock receptical. Several feet of 10 awg thhn wire.

I'm a retired FAA electrical technician and have found much of the NEC as unnecessary nonsense. I started my electrical career when I joined the army at 19 in 1968. 75 now my home runs on solar with grid as my backup. Built my own home top to bottom (except foundation) with the help of one friend. I've done everything from radio repairman in the service, robotics and computer controlled equipment in industry to electronic equipment used by the FAA. This is my second solar installation with 4 arrays consisting of 66 panels 13 kw, 55 kwh batteries and about 19 kw inverter power. Let me know if you think this installation is dangerous to humans or equipment in anyway. I've been retired now since 2010 got my lightning in 2022 and I haven't found any problems with it yet. I'll be 76 in August and still cutting down trees, making boards with my sawmill and heating my home with firewood. Stay busy, stay young. I love my lightning best F150 I've ever owned. I'll never return to ICE. I often charge my truck from my solar system.

 

[Traconesu]

Hey folks!! It took me a while to get my home power situation figured out, but yesterday, I was able to use Option E - hooking the Pro Power Onboard to a generator inlet. I thought it might be useful to share that experience, so here goes!

We are having solar installed, so it was a good time to address using the Lightning. I had already decided against SunRun because I already have an EV charger (non-Ford) and I already had 14 solar panels.

What we added is another dozen or so panels, but this time with a Tesla Gateway and two PowerWall batteries. All of that was in the range of double what SunRun would've cost, but i would only have gotten the Ford integration. Anyway, decided to go with a more typical solar system and use the Lightning as a backup to the backup.

So, what we had done was very, very simple. A generator inlet leads to a breaker in the main panel. That breaker has an interlock so that the main must be shut off to use the generator inlet. Bought a 25-ft generator cord, which goes from the Lightning to the inlet.

Immediately got the ground fault when all this was hooked up. But, in other threads on this forum, it was suggested to remove the ground pin. My electrician thought about that for a few minutes and decided it was safe and reasonable. That made everything work!

I was able to watch the Pro Power screen and see the wattage draw in realtime as we switched things on in the main panel.

Frankly, I do not know if it is code compliant, but, my electrician felt it was perfectly safe. He even pointed out that the Tesla Gateway works the same way, in that it has no earth ground and relies upon the main panel to provide a ground. He reasoned that the Lightning is acting as the Tesla Gateway when I use it.

Do note, this is not an automated solution. I will have to flip breakers to use the truck and I may have to turn off the Tesla Gateway. We are awaiting the inspector before I can really jump in and play with it.

This is very close to what I've done. The NEC may not accept this because my male twistlock receptical does not have a wire going from the receptical to the ground buss. But with the truck and main service panel both having a bonded neutral the ground connected wire is not needed.
Now retired at 75 I've been an electrician all my life. In my opinion your electrician is correct.

 

[Traconesu]

This is very close to what I've done. The NEC may not accept this because my male twistlock receptical does not have a wire going from the receptical to the ground buss. But with the truck and main service panel both having a bonded neutral the ground connected wire is not needed.
Now retired at 75 I've been an electrician all my life. In my opinion your electrician is correct.

This is such a simple easy safe way for those wanting to power your main service panel with your lightnings 240 volt bed receptical.

 

[Vulnox]

I have a roughly 30 foot NEMA 14-50R cable I use with our large open frame generator when needed and it plugs into an inlet on the side of our house and we have an interlock as was mentioned. I don’t really want to buy another cable if it can be avoided and then removing the ground.

Can I buy this adapter I see at Home Depot that does L14-30P to 14-50R and remove the ground from the L14-30P side?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-WORK...e-RV-EV-Range-Connector-RVL14301450/301828754

That way I am just modifying a fairly inexpensive adapter. In my mind it seems reasonable, and it going 30 to 50 shouldn’t be an issue since the 30 is on the supply side.

Thanks!

 

[Dino]

I have a roughly 30 foot NEMA 14-50R cable I use with our large open frame generator when needed and it plugs into an inlet on the side of our house and we have an interlock as was mentioned. I don’t really want to buy another cable if it can be avoided and then removing the ground.

Can I buy this adapter I see at Home Depot that does L14-30P to 14-50R and remove the ground from the L14-30P side?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-WORK...e-RV-EV-Range-Connector-RVL14301450/301828754

That way I am just modifying a fairly inexpensive adapter. In my mind it seems reasonable, and it going 30 to 50 shouldn’t be an issue since the 30 is on the supply side.

Thanks!

That adapter type came with my 23 XLT Lightning (bought new) as part of the PPOB, so it works fine with PPOB. I powered a 220v pool pump using the adapter and a NEMA 14-50 extension cord.

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