Removed Active Air Dam From my F-150 - DIY Writeup

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[CaptainAmericaRob]

Hey guys. First post here. I've seen a few threads discussing the possibility of removing the electronic air dam on these trucks.

I plan on switching out to the Tremor skid plate as soon as it's available, and do not care for the extra mpg and noise quieting the airdam affords, so I decided to take a crack at removing it this evening.

Removal of the electronic portion of the airdam was relatively straight forward. Just six hex screws (3 per side on the motors) on the airdam itself, and then eight torx bolts (4 per side) holding the motors themselves on. I found that the upper bolts nearest the edges of the truck were easier to get at if you take a few lower bolts out of the fender liner so you can scoot it over a bit and reach in.

Now the real fun begins. You have three options at this point for the outer "fixed" airdam.

1. Leave it alone.
2. Remove it to trim it.
3. Trim it on the truck.

I chose #2.

I would not recommend it.

To remove the fixed airdam you have to remove roughly 16-18 nuts.

* Three underneath each foglight.
* Two on each corner.
* About 6 or so in the center behind the license plate bracket area.

In addition to these screws there are 3 plastic retainers (the squeeze and pull kind). 1 in the middle, and 1 on each end.

So with the valance completely removed you'll see the towhook rubber filler panels are exposed (the bracket on the left is my foglight hanging). Other than that there isn't any junk hanging below the bumper so you could theoretically stop here.

I decided; however, that it would probably look cleaner if part of the airdam was reinstalled. So out came a razer blade (was late, didn't want to wake the neighbors with powertools) and sandpaper.

Then finally after cleaning that up I put it back on the truck.

One thing of note, I noticed without the airdam the plastic that passes under the towhook is a bit flimsy. It will probably be fine, but I decided to put a few zip ties on it for good measure. You probably WONT need to do this, but you'll understand why I did once you trim yours.

I recommend trimming it ON THE TRUCK if you wish to go that route. Will turn a four hour job into about 10 minutes. Hindsight.

The Tremor Skidplate will cover the entire towhook area, and I believe it will use a different lower valance altogether as well. Looks like just end pieces.

So this will do for now on my truck for the extra clearance.

I'll post some pictures in the daylight later today.

Fantastic idea ! i will probably also add the Tremor skid plate in time. i love the way it looks and and my 2019 Ranger FX4 has a similar one.

 

[SpartanDS]

I’m pretty sure this is the Tremor skid plate. Having a very hard time finding out what that little trim piece that sits above it is called.

 

[bconn315]

Thanks so much for this post. Followed your instructions and turned out better than I thought. Did the trim on truck technique

 

[Infotroll]

Thanks so much for this post. Followed your instructions and turned out better than I thought. Did the trim on truck technique

Need pic of the bottom

 

[SpartanDS]

Here is what the tremor skid plate coverage around the towhook bottoms looks like btw (I believe the upper silver portion above the towhooks is part of the bumper/fascia:

I can confirm, the upper silver portion above the tow hooks is not part of the bumper. I ordered just that part to replace the stock XLT one (I cracked it). After looking at the schematics, it appears that I will be doing some trimming of the air dam once it arrives to make it look correct. I will do a write up similar to yours above and post it in this thread when its done.

 

[Lateonthebrakes]

Wow, that's pricey. I wish I would have found this post before I bought the RCI skid plate for my XLT. For what it's worth I just removed the brace from the motors to clear the RCI front plate. It's only 3x M7 bolts on each side. I saw no reason to remove the motors.

 

[Lateonthebrakes]

It would be great if the OP could make a list of all the parts required to put the tremor and fx4 plates on a truck without them.

 

[Brandon6328]

Off topic but do you have a link to where you got your Ford emblem overlay?

 

[JoeyD]

Wow, that's pricey. I wish I would have found this post before I bought the RCI skid plate for my XLT. For what it's worth I just removed the brace from the motors to clear the RCI front plate. It's only 3x M7 bolts on each side. I saw no reason to remove the motors.

Do you have a pic of this installed?

 

[Lateonthebrakes]

Do you have a pic of this installed?

Are you asking for a picture of the skid plate installed? I did it in my driveway and there isn't really enough room to get a good overall picture.

 

[Derek83]

Are you asking for a picture of the skid plate installed? I did it in my driveway and there isn't really enough room to get a good overall picture.

I would love to see a pic from the front end, maybe from the ground.

 

[Lateonthebrakes]

I left the fixed portion of the air dam in place so you can't really see it unless you really try.

 

[KartRacer25]

FYI: I got help from Lateonthebrakes for my aluminum RCI install.
Left full air dam in, and it still seems to work at excessive speeds.
May do removal/cutting or Tremor piece , anyone get cost? (if it fits). For any real hard trail trips.
Later after I do level and re check new approach angle like mentioned earlier by
gtotco post.
Now back to watching Hallie Deegan in her F150 at Talladega !!

.

 

[Whoskyle]

I can confirm, the upper silver portion above the tow hooks is not part of the bumper. I ordered just that part to replace the stock XLT one (I cracked it). After looking at the schematics, it appears that I will be doing some trimming of the air dam once it arrives to make it look correct. I will do a write up similar to yours above and post it in this thread when its done.

What’s the part # for the silver piece?

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